Diving in.

[icyhotpatch]

Not going to lie I am very excited to be forced to have to rebuild this engine.

[flowmastergfunk]

I left a link in to VC thread on the injection pump, but you may have more leaking than just that. Degrease and pressure wash your engine if you can so you aren't just chasing ghosts with this leak.

You can do a basic reseal with not much more than an a set of allans and a set of torx. The kit will come with enough pieces to do a fullllll reseal, but don't feel obligated to use every piece that you get. You might bite off more than you can chew. Either way, to do it proper, you are going to want to get the pump out of the car, so you should expect a spanner wrench for the tensioner (there are ways around it...I fought it for years....and it's not worth it. Buy a spanner lol), cam lock, pump lock and a dial indicator. If you plan on successfully maintaining this engine, those tools are worth their weight in gold.

If you want more details on a full DIY pump rebuild, check the 3rd page of my build thread. It's got pictures out the ying yang.
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=31532.30

I believe page 2 has a picture of all the stuff that comes in the rebuild kit

[icyhotpatch]

I will most likely buy the right stuff. It bothers me inside if I dont care for my vehicles the right way. I know I wanted a good kit. The pump is coming out and the engine too. I figure if the guy rebuilt everything like he did the valve cover its going to need to be redone. I have alot of non specialty tools now. Going into the car industry. Maybe I will even open up my own import shop in Michigan when I get better at it. I feel bad for all these people who need to drive 2 houra to have their cars serviced by the dealership. I am a fair and honest person so who knows. Id love to get my hands on some more euro cars.

[theman53]

Speaking from experience if the engine runs decent you should just leave it alone. It starts out as a rebuild and soon you are replacing everything while you are there. Unless time and funds are never a problem I vote you keep going with it as long as you can. It maybe no gain to rebuild it all right now.

[icyhotpatch]

The ip for sure is getting rebuilt. I think I might do some more investigation into the leak. My issue is I like to either be lazy or turn it up to 11 and redo everything.

[ORCoaster]

If the engine was just rebuilt I would be checking compression and deciding on whether to leave it alone or not.  Like it has been mentioned you need to get the engine clean then look for the leaks.  Bad install on the gaskets?  Leaky IP pump.  One is not hard to do but the other is way more involved. 

I know where you can get a deal on a complete set of the tools you might need to own and service this car for about 150.  I need to check with the seller but can do an PM if you care to follow up on that.  Basically half price on all the equipment and I bet he'd ship if you paid full price. 

If the engine is really running well and leaks are the problem don't kill it by disassembling it right yet.

How many threads are on here from folks that thought it was like any other engine, what could be wrong with it?  Heck even I started out that way.  Had the injection pump fall apart on me because I didn't know it needed to be disassembled standin on it's nose.  So, easy does it here. 

[Gizmoman]

x2 on Diving in - too deep

[icyhotpatch]

Too deep maybe but I can swim. Ill do a compression test. I have a mightyvac kit but only used it gassers im sure its not fit for diesel. I would but interested in the kit. Who are the tools manufacted by?
I will have to wait until I can get some help to crank. On gas vehicles I always just modified a relay to crank. I will get back to you guys when I complete the test. I am starting to lean towards a seal on one of the pulleys being bad as well. I was leaning more towards resealling the engine(new headgasket new oil pan gasket and new crank seals) than a complete reardown. I bought the ip kit last night after I started it stuck my hand under it noticed the fluid was clear not oil and didnt smell like coolant. The PO said he ran b20 couldnt that hurt the seals of the pump? Oh well I will do some testing and see how that goes.

[icyhotpatch]

Of coarse my compression kit is not suitable for diesels. Should I buy one? I think I might. I think I am going to buy crankshaft seal head and oil pan gasket to keep around just incase. Tomorrow night I will be cleaning the engine with my power washer. Anything I should look oit for?

[ORCoaster]

Compression test has to be done with a diesel compatible gauge.  Gassers are too low you are trying to measure 500 psi in each cylinder or at least 480.  I have one of the better quality Harbor Freight kits.  The adapter goes in the hole where the injector came out.  All the needed parts are there and the gauge has the ability to adapt to many different vehicles.  I just hook it up and secure the gauge in the engine compartment then go hit the key and let it wind around several times and go read the dial.  Sometimes I can position it so I can see it climb up the scale looking under the hood as it is raised at this point.

Kit with all the goodies was gone when I went looking for it.  All the stuff was from the Parts Geek site if I remember right.  Timing gauge, compression gauge, plates, IP pin, some sockets, the tensioner and some hex head sockets for the head bolts.   

I clean the engine with some sort of engine degreaser on a warm not hot engine.  Then wash it down with the easy does it spray on the powerwasher.  Geinerally I don't need to hit the high pressure trigger.  Once it is clean I run it for a short distance, like 10 miles and look where oil is coming from with a good strong light. 

Not much to it.

[icyhotpatch]

I think im going to get the harbor freight compression kit for now. Need to get new heat shields for injectors as well before I can do compression test.  

Are the tool numbers still the same as the tools in the Bentley?

I was watching it leak this morning I can only see oil coming from above the oil pan gasket behind the timing belt cover only. Coolant hasnt gone down at all. And its still dripping off the ip.

[ORCoaster]

You can reform the heatshields using a ball bearing, a socket and a pair of vice grip pliers.  No need to spend the coin on them unless cracked or broken.  This is personal opinion and use information, your comfort zone may be different.

Not sure about tool numbers in the Bentley.  Plenty of parts places can hook you up with poor to good quality tools.  Parts Place might have some decent equipment.  I think I said Parts Geek in the first post and they too may have em.  Hard to tell until you get them in hand at times.  Search forum for tools and maybe the stickies as well.  Something there about our handmade cheaters and money savers.


Sounds like the oil leak is at the place where the gasket joins the U shaped piece over the cam.  Sealer after cleaning will take care of that if the Valve Cover isn't messed up.  IP sounds iffy to me as well.  Hard to spot those.

[icyhotpatch]

I see the fluid on the ip mount. On ip side. I dont see what else it could be. Ive seen liquid drip off of it also tried to film it but its difficult to film drops close up in lower light. I replaced the valve cover gasket. How about the cam shaft seal and the crankshaft seals? I guess I could have screwed up the valve cover again. It is a little hard to get that hump up there. Maybe take it off and put some rtv on the hump to hold it? Thoughts? Im thinking compression test is almost useless at this point the most it will tell me if the head gasket is leaking which I can do a cheaper way ie: coolant pressure test. But I want the gauge anyway so I might do it no matter what. I just need it driving before my neighbors complain. If I have to reseal the ip wouldnt it be pointless to buy lock it first then I could replace headgasket, oil pan gasket, and cam and crank seals as well as do the t-belt. Even if I buy the tools and gaskets im looking at like 450 and peace of mind as long as there are no hang ups.

What I want to know is: do metal head gaskets come in dif sizes and should I use one? From what I understand if you dont machine the head before upgrading the gasket will not seal correctly so now im leaning to a regular felpro if I need to replace it. And do they have a rubber gasket for oil pan I just havent seen one or maybe a site too look. I would appreciate any help with these mainly because they will need to be replaced at some point.

[icyhotpatch]

If im taking the ip off do I need to wait until I get the lock? Im going to retime and replace timing belt. Trying to speed this up a little. I will wait if I have to. If I dont need it I will take off so I can get on with this.

I need to make a trip to good old harbor frieght for that gauge even though possitive compression is spot on. Starts up and runs perfect except for the leaking dark oily substance that doeant smell like coolant and the clear looking liquid that also doesnt smell like coolant.

Does anyone have tips for seeing behind timing belt cover?

Working 40 hours a week and still going to college makes timing difficult.  Thank fully I have a 60x40 garage with heat. Too bad I cant get this thing to my college one of the instructors is very experienced with VW.

[Gizmoman]

I see the fluid on the ip mount. On ip side. I dont see what else it could be. Ive seen liquid drip off of it also tried to film it but its difficult to film drops close up in lower light.

If it smells like diesel fuel it's your IP. If you think it's coolant but there's not enough to smell or tell what color it is, but it's a bit slippery, it's coolant. If it's not slippery, it's sweat from your brow

Some of your questions about head gaskets lead me to believe you don't have a Bentley. That should be your first tool. There are different thicknesses and the Bentley will tell you how to measure you piston protrusion and select the correct one. There's also tons of info in the FAQ about head gaskets.

As for leaks behind the timing belt cover, I would look for a bad Intermediate shaft seal. If you find the leak there, I'd loosen the timing belt and check for side-to-side play of the IM shaft. If you can feel it, it's very likely too much and you IM shaft bearings are shot (I hope not).