WAIC Intercooler schematic

[Syncroincity]

For stand-still heat soak, you could always add a timed relay and/or temp sensor to keep the water pump running for a while after shutdown.
That would affect battery life, though, if over used.

[CRSMP5]

honestyly.. he needs 2 systems..

he needs a cool down fan built into the rear vent by windows to suck air up thru them when shut off.. couple bigger cpu fans would i bet do wonders... they 5v.. so id say a neet but unknown result idea.. but crap bet it would have little batt life impact.. those odd solar panel kinds runnning off a temp probe would be really tits.. they using those on car window parking lot applications...

vw used the temp probe method on cis cars from 85 up... after run till the area between head/manifold a certain temp to help prevent the cis fuel lines from boiling fuel.. so he can retro fit that i bet as vw wiring simple in that era..

[Gizmoman]

If I would add anything to run after shutdown, it would be an oil pump moving oil through the turbo.
As for the WAIC, I'm gonna treat it like a regular cooling system. One small tank with a pressure cap venting to another small expansion tank.

Thanks for the consideration though - gives me the warm fuzzies

[libbydiesel]

If you run the same type of coolant in your engine and your AWIC system they could share the license plate door burp tank. 

[vanbcguy]

One big reason to keep them separate is everything in the AWIC is aluminium or nonmetallic. If you mix with engine coolant you have to worry about all kinds of galvanic stuff that you will never see in a "single metal" system. My AWIC coolant stays hella clean as a result.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[Gizmoman]

If you run the same type of coolant in your engine and your AWIC system they could share the license plate door burp tank. 

I bought enough pentofrost to do both systems easily.

Thanks vanbcguy - and you are correct, the WAIC system is all aluminum, but libby's suggestion is certainly worth consideration. If this very expensive Pentofrost still creates crud (due to the iron block) I'll be very disappointed.

[JoeCanuck]

I really don't think heat soaking will be a big deal.  Yes, the water in the WAIC will get to engine compartment temp, but as soon as the system kicks on, it'll cool the system.  The WAIC won't care if the warm water came from engine compartment heat or heat from charge compression.

After sitting for a while, by the time you're at the point where you need max power, you should be a-ok.

[Gizmoman]

I really don't think heat soaking will be a big deal.  Yes, the water in the WAIC will get to engine compartment temp, but as soon as the system kicks on, it'll cool the system.  The WAIC won't care if the warm water came from engine compartment heat or heat from charge compression.

After sitting for a while, by the time you're at the point where you need max power, you should be a-ok.

As you can see by the diagram at the start of this thread, I have no provision for boiling hot water. The concerns of many here is that it could boil under "heat-soak". Thinking of it that way, it does seem that fluid volume may be a simple solution as I doubt the heat soak could boil several gallons of water.

[JoeCanuck]

I think of it this way;  I have never had the underhood temps hotter after I shut the engine off than before.  If my water temps don't get hotter than 200(ish) F, then I don't see how anything else under the hood will get hotter either.

Add to that your intention of adding rad coolant to the mix, and run a pressurized system, (both which raise the boiling point of water), my opinion is that boiling is an issue you won't have to deal with.

On the other hand, I don't have any experience with WAIC systems, so there may be aspects of this that don't jive with my theory.

[theman53]

I understand your idea of the never hotter after I shut it off, but for the first couple minutes it is. All the oil and coolant that was cooling and circulating isn't anymore, the engine becomes a hotspot and it radiates heat out of it. The engine will heat soak the oil, and coolant and everything around it. My engine mount in the rear gets hot even*steel homemade one for low mounted vnt on mkii* but it shouldn't be boiling too badly or hard. I try to let things idle down for at least 30 seconds before just turning it off to help equalize the heat and not add anymore than idle combustion makes. When my EGT gets down to 200-250f then I figure it is ok to shut it down.

Run Water wetter from redline and you will probably never have an issue.

[JoeCanuck]

My Cummins idles in the high 200's/low 300's.  I have a turbo timer that keeps it running after shutdown until EGT's get below 400f.

I agree there will be hotspots  but I suspect they'll cool before water in a WAIC starts to boil.

[8v-of-fury]

I would not recommend running straight water in the AWIC system anyhow. Hardly as effective as a glycerin mixture, and more prone to freezing/boiling. I'd run a 70/30 coolant mixture as you would in the radiator cooling system..

It is an aluminum cooling system all the same.

[JoeCanuck]

I agree.... straight water is asking for trouble.  The coolant is anti boil, anti freeze, anti corrosion and a pump lubricant, all in one plastic bottle.  

Having never heard of a WAIC before, it sounds like a great idea...especially for tight applications. 

Designing one that actually works might be fun.

[Gizmoman]

As I mentioned, there's going to be Pentofrost mix in there - same as the engine. Never intended to run straight water. What water there is, will be also distilled.
Not running an expansion tank will save some hassle for sure. Water (with antifreeze) transfers heat real quick. In other words whatever heat the engine puts into it, it will put it into all of it (if that makes sense). Another way to look at it - there's not going to be some hot water and some cool water unless I had a valve in the system which I don't. Don't know what the total volume will be but it's probably around three gallons with the current tank, hoses, rad, etc.

I was a welder in my ute, and I figure if the entire block were 500 F. and I stuck it in three gallons of water, It would sizzle a bit but the water would never boil

[JoeCanuck]

I understood you know the value of coolant but there are those that believe straight water is the best way to go...and they'd be wrong for the vast majority of circumstances.  Perhaps, straight water may be more benificial in some way I can't imagine, but, well...I can't imagine how. 

I'm really digging this idea.