I know I need gauges, but the money and "need" is elsewhere.. This thing is pretty much our bone stock to-and-from work commuter and the woman's car, but we mostly drive mine to tool around as it is way more fun haha.
I would start by cranking up that bov. Crank that flat had screw as tight as you can get it. You can't stop it from blowing off but you should see an improvement.
I will disable it all together, and disable the waste-gate for a small test drive. See what happens, might do it tonight if I have the time.
Blocksmith, I am certain it is not the waste gate being stuck open because the engine builds boost normally and will until 4500 rpm if you are just on the pedal enough to keep accelerating. Anymore pedal application and you get an immediate huge loss of power (like almost deceleration) and a huge plume of black out the back. So this is either the BOV or the waste gate blowing wide open and wasting all of either the exhaust or intake manifold pressure, thus no powerz. I am advanced on the timing, but not overly. Always cranked in the winter and only needed the advance cable on the super cold starts, mainly for the idle bump. I like a nice clean low idle and some rattles lol.
The fuel is an interesting point to point out, I run a very healthy shot of 2-stroke in all 3 diesels in the driveway at every fill-up. This one and my 84 M-TDI actually get the highlight of sucking back LSD as opposed to the ULSD everyone else is accustomed to. I get my fuel every week from work as part of my "salary", and I am aware of the tanks cleaning history and filter changes on the pumps. We go through quite a bit of diesel, so it is always fresh fuel.
I dunno man, how does that K03 1.6 spin up? I am assuming QUICK like my two 1.9L K03's. They rev super fast, faster than gasser fast. I actually took off hard the other day being a bit of a show-off for a friend who thinks my car is "funny"... A fair 1500-1700 RPM clutch feather and throttle massaging got the tires loose without issue, mashed the pedal and I hit red-line faster then I could pull off the go-go pedal! No lies, I drained the injection pump of its fuel and immediately it began chugging and running rough (I thought I popped the turbo to pieces!). Let it idle well I popped the hood, and it began to smooth out as I saw fuel entering the pump ha! Subjective problem? Pretty much yes, the car runs fine just needs more power! haha I hate driving it after getting out of either of the 1.9L cars.. lol.
I'll have to see if the stock mk3 TDI intercooler will fit in the mk2, and then add some piping. BAM instant 20hp.
Lucas, I have the max fuel screw in as far as the pump can physically have it man. Which means internally the fuel control collar is in its most aggressive fueling position and will allow the pump to inject its maximum quantity per injection stroke of the plunger. This pump could probably benefit from an AAZ cam-plate.. I have had good luck with them in 1.6 pumps in the past for people. I can hear the boost when past 2000 at WOT, it doesn't come on hard or seem to have much effect. If the engine is much below 3000 when a hill is approached it will be sucked right down and power will drop off drastically. Even the 1st to 2nd shift needs to be drawn out for 2nd to have any acceleration whatsoever. Me hates. lol.
Why is it hillbilly tuning? I do not get why everyone calls it this. Seriously lol. You insert your gauge, set it to whatever number you feel like will be best and then test run it. Don't like it you insert the gauge again and advance or retard based on how you feel it is running. I do this same thing minus inserting the gauge each time. What is the difference? Either way we both turned the pump advanced or retarded to run the way we want it to by ear and feel. With regards to a timing light we all time our engines the same way, to where it runs best. I just don't need locks or a gauge to do so lol.
Your way IMHO is not intelligent in the slightest for running the car.
HAHA, awe come on why you gotta be like that lol. Intelligent? You have never turned a distributor without a timing light attached to set it how you liked it? Repeatable? Sure why isn't it? I know how I like them to sound when running, so that is where I set them to lol. Really, I'd say this is as close to an accurate way as the timing light with factoring in all wear items and all.
FWIW, Giles gives a concrete number to set his pumps to because he set them up that way on his really expensive calibration bench. If he wants the pump to begin injection at .95mm then that is where he will tell you to set it I feel.
TREVi also do not like just tuning by ear, i like to set it with the gauge, then tune by ear, and drive see whats best.
What is the difference though? lol. You end up doing what I do in the end anyway. Sooo..

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