ECOdiesel runs hot

[Jaceb-GLI]

I've just replaced a bunch of *** and now trying to figure out why it runs so warm..i need to get the AC fixed and the car runs at 3/4 gauge without the AC.

Here's what I've replaced:
- Thermostat
- Waterpump
- Upgrade from NA to TD pump
- TT cat-back exhaust
- Coolant flange (old one was leaking)

Anyways, when I'm just cruising its okay but if I get on it from a stop it warms up rather quickly. And when I try to do 5th gear pulls it warms up very quickly.

I have pulled the restrictor out of the upper radiator hose, that was clogged shut.
And now I think im going to cut the oxidation converter off today to see if that lowers EGT's and operating temps.

Anyone have anymore ideas?

[theman53]

What temp is it running. 3/4 of the gauge means nothing to me.

[VTPSD]

mine runs at 3/4 gauge when climbing hills or slow city traffic, about half to 3/4 all other times. Fan doesnt cylce till 3/4 so i wouldnt consider that to be overly hot.

[Jaceb-GLI]

That's what I don't like. My other TD never got that warm, and I'm trying to get this to behave the same way. I know it may not concern some, but I want lower temperatures because I feel that it will increase the longevity of my engine, and the headgasket..

I dont know exactly what temp it runs because I haven't installed my mechanical coolant temp gauge, but it gets to 3/4 on the stock wonky gauge. I know that the stock sensors and cluster can be inaccurate too, im aware.

I would rather the fan come on at half gauge than 3/4. Is this a matter of putting an older fan switch in? My cooling system is fantastic otherwise. Is the fan switch for these "eco-specific?"

Thanks,
Jake

[damac]

I would get your manual gage and then make sure everything is in order.  Each car I drive seems to have its own readings on the dash with stock thermostats, etc.

If you are trying to link what you see on the gage with the radiator fan switch in radiator, that isn't good to do either because they can die and you got no fan.

So make sure your radiator is good and doesn't have hot spots and actually test it in a pot of boiling water with a thermometer.

There are different rated switches that people match up with thermostat changes, so double check all that stuff.

Not a fun job since you need to drop the coolant but might as well start from the bottom and work yourself back up on a daily driver.  Its what I do every time I put together another one of these cars. 

[wolf_walker]

You can trust the stock gauge to be consistent from drive to drive.  Usually.  But it isn't especially accurate.

High temps, to a point, are OK, it's keeping them steady you want for longevity.  I share your belief.

I'm (still) putting off a cooling system re-do on my Caddy, but have a manual fan switch to
pacify my OCD-ness and keep it at about the same gauge reading in town as it reads cruising @60mph.
I'm going to end up playing with the fan switch temp and t-stat opening to get it to start cooling
sooner (or stay hot later) eventually.  They run better hot if you pay close attention...

[Jaceb-GLI]

The manual gauge is going in as soon as I get an adapter made up to mount the sender.

Yeah they do run better, and get better mileage when hotter, but that's not a big deal to me. Im already getting 50+mpg.

I thought about putting the fan on a toggle, that might not be a bad idea. The fan switch on ECO's must be a higher temperature? If that's the case I'll probably swap out for another TD switch I have.

Another thing is I still have the catalyst in place, its probably partially clogged and isn't letting gases out fast enough. Removing that and opening up to 2.25" might help out. No EGT gauge currently installed, but soon don't worry.

[wolf_walker]

Do ditch the cat.
Fan is probably dual stage, which is good.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[8v-of-fury]

I would rather the fan come on at half gauge than 3/4. Is this a matter of putting an older fan switch in? My cooling system is fantastic otherwise. Is the fan switch for these "eco-specific?"

If the cooling system is up to snuff, what is the worry? What temperature thermostat did you put in? Because if you put in a  90 stat, it is going to hold your coolant temps at 3/4 gauge. The gauges read 70 (lowest) to 110 (highest) Celsius.

Higher coolant temps will most certainly NOT lower any sort of longevity of the engine. They sell a 92c stat for the reason of holding the engines coolant at a minimum of 92c.

If you install a lower temperature fan switch, and the engine is still putting out enough heat.. the fan will literally be running the whole time you are at operating temperature.

When you put your manual sender in, make sure to put it in the front neck leaving the head. This will give you the most accurate view of what is really going in.

[theman53]

If going by stock gauges I had an 84 bunny that ran 1 to 2 notches under the red. Always was there. At one notch away from red the fan kicked on and went back to 2 notches from the red. I don't know how hot that was. I know I have had water pump failure on these cars and still got away with it. I think if you keep it under 235F you shouldn't have any issues mostly. If you keep it under 220F I don't think you would ever have an issue.

[Jaceb-GLI]

Deleted the converter and put some 2.25" pipe in place.
What a difference.
The coolant temperatures rise still but they go back down a lot faster than they used to. Mission accomplished.
Turbo doesn't know hot to act now, it overspools..i think id like a K24 instead.