AAZ project update

[libbydiesel]

Here's something to consider:



Zero parallax and cup holders!     It needs eyebrows, tho, as it does make reflections on the windshield at night.

[theman53]

Here's something to consider:



Zero parallax and cup holders!     It needs eyebrows, tho, as it does make reflections on the windshield at night.

Holy Cow....how did you get a v8 in a vanagon LOL. Great job on your gauges.

[CrazyAndy]

30 is always live.  15 is live with ignition On or Start.  X is live with ignition On and off during start.

The diagram is fine.  I would probably just run one relay for the oil cooler fan, intercooler fan and pump.  I'd also move all the accessories except the lift pump to X but it will work as is.  None of that helps decipher the stock '82 wiring, tho.   

Just thought I'd chime in on this.  Libby is right on all the power circuit designations, and the reason I gave all the circuits their own relays is mostly for ease of construction of the schematic.  Looking back I agree with Libby on getting a common relay for the AWIC components, and maybe on switching the control circuit for the oil cooler to X power as well.  I originally envisioned it like the cooling fan electrical systems in your older cars, where the control for the fan relay is always on to prevent heat soak into the radiator after shut-off.  Also, most aftermarket relay/fuse combination boards don't have a lot of space for double relays, and hell if I can find triples, but that is going off my own web research which is admittedly incomplete.

That's all I have to say; if you think I missed anything or could revise the diagram further let me know.

[Gizmoman]

30 is always live.  15 is live with ignition On or Start.  X is live with ignition On and off during start.

The diagram is fine.  I would probably just run one relay for the oil cooler fan, intercooler fan and pump.  I'd also move all the accessories except the lift pump to X but it will work as is.  None of that helps decipher the stock '82 wiring, tho.   

Just thought I'd chime in on this.  Libby is right on all the power circuit designations, and the reason I gave all the circuits their own relays is mostly for ease of construction of the schematic.  Looking back I agree with Libby on getting a common relay for the AWIC components, and maybe on switching the control circuit for the oil cooler to X power as well.  I originally envisioned it like the cooling fan electrical systems in your older cars, where the control for the fan relay is always on to prevent heat soak into the radiator after shut-off.  Also, most aftermarket relay/fuse combination boards don't have a lot of space for double relays, and hell if I can find triples, but that is going off my own web research which is admittedly incomplete.

That's all I have to say; if you think I missed anything or could revise the diagram further let me know.

The diagram is fine and appreciated.
I've made my own in the event I need to work on it when alzheimer's sets in   Besides, a new owner may appreciate it as well but I don't plan on selling it - no one would like the price

Libby - your gauge pod is lacking altimeter, outside temp, and inclination.
Nice fabrication though!
As I mentioned, mine is big but now it seems tiny Hopefully I will have it mounted this weekend (unless I change my mind and put it somewhere else).

[Gizmoman]

Well, so much for camping this summer. . .
Finishing up the engine bay wiring.


The spades on the GP relay were looking a bit green so I re-did them (soldered em as well)


The wires won't need to carry much juice though as I've added two 50 amp relays (2 GPs on each as well as a 15 amp fuse for each GP - easy diagnosing problems.

The other two relays (one is missing in photo) handle the WAIC pump, oil cooler and WAIC cooler fans. These are powered from  the blue wire from the alternator so they only run when the engine is running.


WAIC pump


I thought about getting fancy and adding a switch to run them for a bit after shutdown, but this will work and it's simple. I also need to run a new wire to the lift pump, All the sensor wires (4) for the gauges are run to the dash. I've nearly finished running the heater hoses and should have the fuel tank in next weekend. Before I hook them up to the heater valve, I want to check the valve to make sure it is actually shutting off. Then it's on to the dash wiring and the gauge pod.

I figure three more weekends (at least) and I'll be cranking

Again, thanks to all for the help

[libbydiesel]

Nice and clean.  I would add a couple things to consider.  Is that location of the relay/fuse panel blocking the straight-on view of the timing plug in the trans?  Mouser has a fair number of weather-proof enclosures for electronic components for cheap.

[Gizmoman]

Nice and clean.  I would add a couple things to consider.  Is that location of the relay/fuse panel blocking the straight-on view of the timing plug in the trans?  Mouser has a fair number of weather-proof enclosures for electronic components for cheap.

I suppose it is if your refering to using a timing light to time it. Libby, I believe you have that timing light set-up correct? On that note I was wondering if my"Tiny-Tach' pulse signal block which is clamped to #1 injection line would be useful for that. Also, as I have the oversized clutch and pressure-plate (210 MM http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=33548.0), so I don't have any timing marks. I really wish I had put some on it but i didn't have a decent surface. I think I'm going to seriously regret that.

As far as the possibility of moving the relays and fuses, I'm way to far along at this point. Every terminal is soldered, heat-shrunk, and covered with anti-corrosion goo.

[CrazyAndy]

Very good looking setup.   Where did you get your fuse and relay panels and terminals/stuff (sorry I forgot to provide links like I had said; can still provide of you want)?  Also where is the AWIC radiator and it's trick mounting shroud going to be?  Can't wait until we see a first start vid!

[bbob203]

If you pull the #1 injector and put it at perfect tdc you can make a mark thru the bell housing.

[Gizmoman]

Very good looking setup.   Where did you get your fuse and relay panels and terminals/stuff (sorry I forgot to provide links like I had said; can still provide of you want)?  Also where is the AWIC radiator and it's trick mounting shroud going to be?  Can't wait until we see a first start vid!

Don't have the exact link to the fuse/relay panels but I think it was a HELLA product. They can be "linked" together as you can see in the photo above and the covers have nice little o-rings which seals em nicely - BTW, the relay cover is not on in the photo.

Here's a shot of the oil and water cooler under the van. Yes, yes, it looks low - I't isn't.
Here's the WAiC cooler a bit closer



Thanks for the reminder about taking a vid of the first crank! I'll paste a note on the inside of the windshield. I'm old and have so many memories, I can't seem to find room for the current ones

[Gizmoman]

If you pull the #1 injector and put it at perfect tdc you can make a mark thru the bell housing.

Agreed, if there were a flat surface somewhere I'd have done that. Trouble is, it's a non-stock clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. Somehow, the configuration leaves the weird surfaces, bolt heads, recesses, etc of the pressure plate.
I'm sure I can figure something out but now that it's in the bay, it will be a lot tougher. At the time, I was too antsy to get it stuffed in. That's what happens when i make compromises

[CRSMP5]

pull #4 glow plug... rubber hose let it foorm a droop with liquid in the droop.. turn crank.. when it quits pushing/pulling it at tdc.. just use #4 tdc.. same as #1..

[Gizmoman]

I believe I made marks on the crank sprocket. Not sure if i can use them now but i'll check when I get some daylight.

[Gizmoman]

Started it up today for the first time in over a year!
Runs great but I haven't let it go too long as I want to put load on it before I let it idle much.

Oil pressure is 36 psi at idle (not totally warmed up but close). I may have drilled too big of a hole in my modified oil passage to the IM shaft ball bearing mod. I'm not worried though, it hits 60 easy when I increase the RPMs to 3K or so

Tomorrow I'll tidy up the wiring and get it roadworthy. I'm running the oil cooler and WAIC fan & pump off a relay energized by the blue wire from the alternator. This will keep them from coming on unless the engine is running. I still need to make those connections.

I'll get some shots of a few interesting bits and post em up before the weekend is over.

Thanks for everyone's help. Without this forum, I'd have been up s#%@t creek!

Jim

[CRSMP5]

ahhhhh no.. get that off the blue wire... that is for the idiot light.. not meant for your use.. your better off powering the relay off any of the "black hot with key" wires..