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Building my Low Buck GTD by Toby on 18 Nov, 2011 23:17
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I jerked the 1.6 N/A motor out of the donor '83 Jetta coupe today, along with the fuel lines, radiator, and exhaust. The motor is a factory "green block" motor with the reman sticker still in place. The engine and 5 speed came out of a '81 Rabbit 4 door that I bought for $200. Rebuilt engine, brand new tires, and a "stupid kid" muffler on the back. Sold the body for $400, so I am in the engine trans, radiator, tires, and exhaust a negative $200. I bought the Jetta coupe body for $200 and sold the 8V gas motor the PO started to put into it for $175. Put the diesel motor in the Jetta. So I am in the Jetta a negative $25.
I sold the Jetta body for $400.
I just snagged an '86 8V GTI for $200. The head is off of the motor but the gaskets are there. It has 2 burned exhaust valves. I will do the valves this weekend and throw the head back on and see if it is any good. If it is the guys that bought the Jetta will buy it for $150.
So... Next week I will drop the 1.6 N/A motor in my 125K mile GTD wannabe.
Tomorrow I will go through all of my 5 speeds and see what I have for ratios and post some pics of my project. I will also get back to the guy with 5 VNT15s and manifolds. May even dig out the TD core that I have and run it through the aqueous parts washer. Best $200 I ever spent. -
#1 by vanbcguy on 19 Nov, 2011 00:04
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Wicked...
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#2 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 19 Nov, 2011 01:19
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So... Next week I will drop the 1.6 N/A motor in my 125K mile GTD wannabe.
Out of little acorns great oaks grow...
Well done with your trading by the way.
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#3 by Toby on 19 Nov, 2011 10:40
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Yeah, I am one of the Order of Cheap Bastids.
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#4 by R.O.R-2.0 on 19 Nov, 2011 10:50
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Yeah, I am one of the Order of Cheap Bastids.
X2
also a member of the Order of Cheap Bastids..
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#5 by CRSMP5 on 19 Nov, 2011 13:46
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eeeeeewwwwwwwwww sticker bad..... you need to go thru it... every one ive ever seen or delt with was so piss poor rebuilt they either throw a rod or eat the thrust bearings.... but hey thats over 15 years ago.. maybe quality changed..
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#6 by R.O.R-2.0 on 19 Nov, 2011 14:15
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eeeeeewwwwwwwwww sticker bad..... you need to go thru it... every one ive ever seen or delt with was so piss poor rebuilt they either throw a rod or eat the thrust bearings.... but hey thats over 15 years ago.. maybe quality changed..
my MF never thru a rod or ate the thrust, and it was a VWoC rebuild.. bores are soo worn out that it could prolly use 1mm o/s pistons with JUST A HONE..
i agree that the rebuilds were inferior quality.. -
#7 by Toby on 20 Nov, 2011 14:05
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That has not been my experience. I sold a few out of my shop in the late '80s and they seemed to trouble free. I have also has several go through my hands used and all seemed fine. This one has very even compression, great oil consumption, and got high 40s in the Rabbit, so I do not think that I will worry too much about it. I have several other 1.6Ds collecting dust as well. The LBGTD will get the TD motor before spring, as long as the car isn't junk. I will know that as soon as I get the head back on later this week.
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#8 by R.O.R-2.0 on 20 Nov, 2011 14:09
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That has not been my experience. I sold a few out of my shop in the late '80s and they seemed to trouble free. I have also has several go through my hands used and all seemed fine. This one has very even compression, great oil consumption, and got high 40s in the Rabbit, so I do not think that I will worry too much about it. I have several other 1.6Ds collecting dust as well. The LBGTD will get the TD motor before spring, as long as the car isn't junk. I will know that as soon as I get the head back on later this week.
if the car is junk, and you dont end up using it, let me know, because i have an 86 also, and i could use a few parts..
i really need a mk2 passenger side rear door tho, if anyone has a decent spare laying around? i know this isnt a for sale/wanted section, but its worth a shot.. -
#9 by Toby on 19 Apr, 2013 13:06
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Well, the best laid plans of mice and men........
Its been a year since I even looked at this stuff.
Well I sold the head off the GTI for $300. It was ported with a mild cam and adjustable cam gear, so I am in the GTI (soon to be GTD) body a negative $75. I took the nice 14 x 6.5 steel wheels off of a free Wrecked Caddy body to make it a roller since the original wheels were FUBAR. Ialso have a set of 15 x 7.5 Momos that I may try if I can find a pair of tires to replace the bald ones.
I scored a very low miles AAZ motor from a buddy who fell on hard times for $700. It is a JY motor out of California and sat in a dry garage for 10 years. All of this has been sitting for over a year while I tried to keep my head above water financially.
I dropped the AAZ into the car a couple of days ago. I still need a downpipe since all I have is the elbow above the flex joint that the JY monkeys cut.
Prior to dropping the motor in I jerked the EVAP canister and sanitized the gasser wiring harness of all the ignition, KS and OXS bull***. This is a US built car so they are different from the kraut models. I prefer the Westmorland wiring with its integral fuse block and less pointlessly Tuetonic engineering. A good example is the fuel pump relay circuit. The kraut cars use a complex FP relay with logic inside that monitors the tach signal to turn itself on and off. The Westy is a simple relay that is controlled by the KS box.
The sano way to do the harness mod is to jerk all of the boxes and their attendant wiring, leaving the oil pressure, temp, alternator, and starter wires intact. Tease out the tach wire (Bl/Gr), the coil wire (Yel), FP relay (Brown/Green) and the OXS wire (Tan/Black) to use for a GP light, and the 2 Yellow/Green wires (fuse 12v KO). These can be moved around the plastic tubes that shield the harness to end up where you need them. I also added/moved a couple of wires for later use to control the GPs. The yellow coil wire becomes power to the IP. The OXS light will become the GP light driven by the voltage to the buss bar. This will require modifying the OXS light in the cluster by grounding one end of the light where it now get 12v. The Yellow/Blue wires are hot with the key, but fused by F22. Perhaps one of these should power the IP so you could immobilize the car by pulling fuse 22.
I also pulled the gasser external FP and cut and spliced the fuel lines under the car to clean things up. This leaves the transfer pump in the tank intact. It is controlled by grounding the Tan/Yellow wire anywhere you like. I ran it out under the hood so I have the option of turning it off, if I ever need to. I patched the stock wiring into the AAZ plugs for the double temp sender (GPs/Gauge) and the IP and the alternator. I also exposed the W wire if I ever need it. I plan to use an inductive pickup on the 2 lugs on the flywheel.
I used a fuel filter bracket that I found in deep stash to hold a diesel fuel filter but I had to massage the inner fender panel to get the filter low enough to close the hood. I generated some fuel and return lines from 2 gasser supply lines and some bit of hose. The nice thing about the plastic fuel lines is that you can heat them in boiling water and shape them any way you want.
I took the AAZ multi plug bracket and shortened it a bit. You need it to bolt up the coolant pipe so I also used it to mount my Ford relay. The 2 studs on the bracket are spaced perfectly to take the late Ford solenoid. I shortened a GP wire from my harness stash and ran it from GP #3 to the solenoid. That makes the current path through the buss bar shorter. I was going to mount a Mk1 GP fuse between the starter terminal and the relay, but now I think I will use the 2 fusible links left over from the alternator wiring I ditched for heavier stuff.
Well I lit is off tonight running just the elbow off the turbo. It smoked like a *** for a while since it sat upside down for a year on the engine stand, but it does live. I will put some water in it is the morning and run it around the block.
Film at 11:00.
The forlorn '86 GTI that I saved from the scrapper for $225. It had some cool stuff on it, like a big cat back exhaust, A/F meter, ported head w/ mild cam and adjustable gear that will help finance the Low Buck GTD project.
Gasser fuel pump assembly installed on the ground.
Fuel lines rerouted and bridged under car after FP removal.
Fuel line and filter generated out of 2 gasser fuel lines and some parts from deep stash.
Ford relay for GPs mounted to the bracket that held the multi pin plug to the T-stat housing.
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#10 by Toby on 20 Apr, 2013 10:16
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There is no joy in Mudville......
It appears the the AAZ IP is gummed up from sitting. Will only idle erratically and then die. The throttle has no effect on anything, nor does the cold start or unplugging the solenoid on the side. It also doesn't want to run at all w/o the transfer pump working. No doubt that the supply pump vanes are gummed up and something else as well.
Now I just need to clean a spot on my steel bench to tear the pump apart and have at it w/ carb cleaner. I had hoped not to have to get inside any of the fuel system, but such is not to be. the motor sounds good and starts very easily.
BTW does anyone know where the violet (purple) wire goes when it dives through the firewall on a Westy '86 GTI? I want to use it to fire the GP solenoid, but the crappy wiring diagrams only show its underhood function. (Full throttle switch)