Oil cooler questions. Looking at universal setup.

[wolf_walker]

Find a Volvo 240 or 740 turbo in junkyard if you are looking for cheap.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/240%20Turbo%20Parts/240TurboOilCoolerKit1.jpg

Everyone in Europe that had them factory used that setup.  Except cheap-ass VW.
And Porsche since there junk is in the wrong end of the car.

[Gizmoman]

Find a Volvo 240 or 740 turbo in junkyard if you are looking for cheap.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/240%20Turbo%20Parts/240TurboOilCoolerKit1.jpg

Everyone in Europe that had them factory used that setup.  Except cheap-ass VW.
And Porsche since there junk is in the wrong end of the car.

Thanks for the pointer - I'll check the local wreckers.
I already bought the cooler and fan though - just need a way to hold the oil back from the cooler till it warms up.

[wolf_walker]

That Volvo piece will do it if you can rummage one up, should be cheap, the remote filter adapter will go on after it.  Snag the threaded tube off the Volvo too if you find one.  The guys on turbobricks.com forum probably have one pretty cheap too.
The other one like aircraftspruce has is pretty common if you want to remote mount it for some reason.

[theman53]

Find a Volvo 240 or 740 turbo in junkyard if you are looking for cheap.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/240%20Turbo%20Parts/240TurboOilCoolerKit1.jpg

Everyone in Europe that had them factory used that setup.  Except cheap-ass VW.
And Porsche since there junk is in the wrong end of the car.

Thanks for the pointer - I'll check the local wreckers.
I already bought the cooler and fan though - just need a way to hold the oil back from the cooler till it warms up.

Did you read my post on the last of page 2?

[Gizmoman]

Did you read my post on the last of page 2?

I did. I ordered one last night along with a set of ARP studs from Summit - it made the adapter seem super inexpensive that way

Not sure how I will plumb it but once I have it in my hands, I'll figure it out.

I'll want the oil to go to the dual filter unit first, then back to the by-pass. If it's cold it will keep doing the loop. Once it warms up, the by-pass will send it off to the oil cooler. That's the part I don't get yet - how that's all going to happen.

In my head, I can only see having the by-pass somewhere after the remote dual filter unit - creating the split based on temp.

Thanks guys. I'll keep you posted on how it works out. Hopefully, there won't be a snarl of hoses where my filter used to be, It's nice and clean with that simple two port adapter there now - no more dumping oil on the block when I change filters.

[theman53]

The bypass will send all the oil to the filters. The separat lines will take the oil to the cooler.

[R.O.R-2.0]

Going the Volvo route, you'd want the Volvo  block nipple.  I didn't think of that, and had to buy an expensive die  to shorten  the air/water one.

you NEED to have custom lines built too, BTW..

there is no way to easily use the OEM volvo 240 turbo cooler lines..

i bent them in many different shapes trying to make them work, but no dice.. you need to have custom oil lines made up, preferably out of some flexible line..

you need the 240T block nipple that the filter screws to, the sandwich, the lines, and the cooler..

the nipple from the 240 block needs even further shortening to fit the VW setup..

[Gizmoman]

Going the Volvo route, you'd want the Volvo  block nipple.  I didn't think of that, and had to buy an expensive die  to shorten  the air/water one.

you NEED to have custom lines built too, BTW..

there is no way to easily use the OEM volvo 240 turbo cooler lines..

i bent them in many different shapes trying to make them work, but no dice.. you need to have custom oil lines made up, preferably out of some flexible line..

you need the 240T block nipple that the filter screws to, the sandwich, the lines, and the cooler..

the nipple from the 240 block needs even further shortening to fit the VW setup..

Turbo, I am going to make custom lines anyhoo. I'd never run lines from a used engine even if I was going to use the Volvo cooler.
I think using the added kit mentioned by theman and routing the new hoses properly, all will work out.

Thanks for the feedback.

[fatmobile]

Going the Volvo route, you'd want the Volvo  block nipple.  I didn't think of that, and had to buy an expensive die  to shorten  the air/water one.

you NEED to have custom lines built too, BTW..

there is no way to easily use the OEM volvo 240 turbo cooler lines..

i bent them in many different shapes trying to make them work, but no dice.. you need to have custom oil lines made up, preferably out of some flexible line..

you need the 240T block nipple that the filter screws to, the sandwich, the lines, and the cooler..

the nipple from the 240 block needs even further shortening to fit the VW setup..

 Cutting the metal lines and using new 12mm ferrels solves the
"lines are too long" and
 "can't bend them into shape"
 problems, both at the same time.

 I did reuse parts of the volvo metal lines and both the rubber ones.
 One did eventually leak after about 3 years.
 
Some of the hose fittings for the volvo stuff, like 1/2 BSP fittings, is more expensive than AN fittings or similar flares.
and more difficult to find around here.
 
 On custom Rabbits oil cooler lines; I have to use a 45degree adapters right from the sandwich to jump around the alternator.

[745 turbogreasel]

Fittings from 80s-90s Saab work on the Volvo stuff too, and Saab uses a rubber hose which is usually leaking, but  you can have the Hydraulic shop put  any length of new hose on those ends.

[fatmobile]

I have the ends from the volvo hose that broke and can't find a local hydrolic shop that will crimp a new hose on the old ends.
 Most of the new ends have a metal piece that crimps on the hose,
 that got cut off when I removed it.

[theman53]

Yeah, I don't imagine many shops would do that unless the parts were in great condition. I think what is being said is that a new hose can be made by bringing your old hose in. I have one hose shop that will pretty much make up anything if you want it. Most want to sell you all new stuff so they can stand behind it and make more money.

[Gizmoman]

Does it need to be hydraulic hose and crimped fittings? I mean were only talking max 100 psi. No doubt I'd never want it to fail but wouldn't thermo-plastic hose and AN fittings work, Then you could make them up yourself.

Thermo-plastic hose is rated to 2000 psi at 250 F for #8. I can get the hose for 3 bucks a foot and Summit has #8 straights for less than 7 bucks each. I'm just not sure if these fitting will fit that hose. The stainless braid cover stuff runs nearly 9 bucks a foot and while it looks cool, I doubt it's necessary.

[theman53]

I personally hate the aluminum an fittings. It doesn't have to be hyd. Hose just oil rated and pressure rated enough for our engines

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[fatmobile]

So I'm concidering reusing the volvo compression fitting ends and double hose-clamping new hose over the barbed fittings.

  I think the rubber hose I used is referred to as power steering line.
 So much of the hydrolic hose has metal strands running through it and is very stiff but
 the power steering stuff can handle some pressure and hot oil while still being flexible.