Measuring at the tip may fool you, as the old style heats the tip much hotter than the duraterm which may actually put out more heat by heating evenly all the way to the root.
Nice theory, but duraterms don't glow that bright.Even if it were out of spec at 3%, I'd still show 997 instead of 1000. If you point it at a light bulb, it is a bit funny aobut how many layers of glass it's going through.They are probably graphing the calculated temp of the nichrome? wire inside the casing.You can easily see that the tip of the duraterm plug is not as hot as the regular one.The inconel shell would be malleable if it were getting that hotQuoteHeat Treatment The alloy is not hardened or strengthened by heat treatment.Forging Forging should be done in the temperature range of 2250 F to 1900 F.Hot Working Hot work in the range of 2250 F to 1600 F. Avoid working in the range of 1400 F to 1000 F as the alloy is apt to thermal crack in that region.Cold Working Cold forming may be done using standard tooling although plain carbon tool steels are not recommended for forming as they tend to produce galling. Soft die materials (bronze, zinc alloys, etc.) minimize galling and produce good finishes, but die life is somewhat short. For long production runs the alloy tool steels ( D-2, D-3) and high-speed steels (T-1, M-2, M-10) give good results especially if hard chromium plated to reduce galling. Tooling should be such as to allow for liberal clearances and radii. Heavy duty lubricants should be used to minimize galling in all forming operations. Bending of sheet or plate through 180 degrees is generally limited to a bend radius of 1 T for material up to 1/8" thick and 2 T for material thicker than 1/8".Annealing Annealing following cold working may be necessary. The annealing temperature is 2100 F and the alloy should be rapidly cooled through the range of 1400 to 1000 F to avoid thermal cracking.
Heat Treatment The alloy is not hardened or strengthened by heat treatment.Forging Forging should be done in the temperature range of 2250 F to 1900 F.Hot Working Hot work in the range of 2250 F to 1600 F. Avoid working in the range of 1400 F to 1000 F as the alloy is apt to thermal crack in that region.Cold Working Cold forming may be done using standard tooling although plain carbon tool steels are not recommended for forming as they tend to produce galling. Soft die materials (bronze, zinc alloys, etc.) minimize galling and produce good finishes, but die life is somewhat short. For long production runs the alloy tool steels ( D-2, D-3) and high-speed steels (T-1, M-2, M-10) give good results especially if hard chromium plated to reduce galling. Tooling should be such as to allow for liberal clearances and radii. Heavy duty lubricants should be used to minimize galling in all forming operations. Bending of sheet or plate through 180 degrees is generally limited to a bend radius of 1 T for material up to 1/8" thick and 2 T for material thicker than 1/8".Annealing Annealing following cold working may be necessary. The annealing temperature is 2100 F and the alloy should be rapidly cooled through the range of 1400 to 1000 F to avoid thermal cracking.
http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92559/prevent-diesel-engine-damage-with-bosch-duraterm-glow-plugs"the regulating coil keeps the heating element within the 1,832-2012 degrees F (1,000-1,100 degrees C) optimal temperature range, preventing engine damage due to over voltage or overheating."I believe Bosch when they publish a graph of their glow plug temperature and do not need to measure one to verify. I know just by looking at the color of the tip (yellow/white hot) that it is much higher than 900- 1000 F which is red/orange.
Quote from: 92EcoDiesel Jetta on March 12, 2013, 10:59:11 pmhttp://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92559/prevent-diesel-engine-damage-with-bosch-duraterm-glow-plugs"the regulating coil keeps the heating element within the 1,832-2012 degrees F (1,000-1,100 degrees C) optimal temperature range, preventing engine damage due to over voltage or overheating."I believe Bosch when they publish a graph of their glow plug temperature and do not need to measure one to verify. I know just by looking at the color of the tip (yellow/white hot) that it is much higher than 900- 1000 F which is red/orange.We can only see the sheath Chief, not the element.Like I said, Nichrome wire element, 601 Inconel sheath.Cred to Whunter@peachparts.
What's are you trying to say???
Quote from: 92EcoDiesel Jetta on March 13, 2013, 12:29:37 pmWhat's are you trying to say???That the quote from Bosch is in complete agreement with my earlier statements, because I am in fact correct.
What, like the Inconel sheath is gonna cut 1000F off the nichrome? If the nichrome is at 2012 F, the Inconel sheath, being in good contact surrounding the nichrome is gonna be the same temp. Where is the heat gonna go except outward? If the glow plug can't get the heat out from the nichrome, it's gonna burn out dude.Just because your IR thermometer says it reading 1000 F does not mean it's correct. I pointed out that IR thermometers are not accurate when measuring light color objects. Furthermore, most IR thermometers measure up to 400F only. The more expensive ones measure only up to 1000 F. I'd suggest you read up on the spec of yours.1000 F is blood red hot, not hot enough to light off a diesel. I remember reading that minimum is 1700 F.
1000 F is blood red hot, not hot enough to light off a diesel. I remember reading that minimum is 1700 F.
I did not start this thread. It was started by a moderator by taking parts from another thread while leaving some important parts out which screwed up the context. I am not posting to this thread anymore since I'll just be wasting my time hate being wrong.
Topic: Glow plug discussion (Read 2602 times)
