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Aaz rebuild questions
by
Tron
on 29 Jan, 2013 16:44
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Hi, I've been reading alot on this forum about rebuilding my aaz to go into my mk2 jetta and have a couple questions.
First, I have been trying to find a machine shop to machine my crank snout for a tdi sprocket but every machine shop I talk to won't even consider it, they won't even install valve guides. the second I mention it's a vw diesel they say they don't won't work on them
The most I've got is the cylinders honed. Dose anyone know of a shop that will machine the snout for the tdi sprocket?
Second, are the main bolts an rod bolts torque to yeild? I've read on here they are, but I've also heard of people reusing them? I'll probably end up putting ARP bolts in anyway, but still good to know. Thanks
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#1
by
theman53
on 29 Jan, 2013 17:26
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Don't go to an engine machine shop, go to a machine shop that is a job shop. One with many manual lathes is more what you are after than ones with many CNC for production. They will help you.
I couldn't recommend anyone in Canada, but I am sure most of the Canadians up there could tell you who they trust.
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#2
by
CrazyAndy
on 29 Jan, 2013 17:59
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I agree with Theman on machine shops; find ones with manual tools and older more experienced gentlemen. And as far as the lower end bolts go, the AAZ rod bolts are torque-to-yield. The main bolts, however, can be a toss-up. If you have fully-threaded bolts, they are TTY, but partially threaded bolts are non-TTY and can be reused.
How much power are you going for? I'd run some Raceware main studs if you want some moderate power. I'm afraid I don't know what to do for rod bolts outside of stock. The problem is that the AAZ rod has a relatively small bolt head area, and the bob weight cuts into installing wider-head aftermarket bolts or stud combos that other engines can use. DO NOT GRIND AWAY THE BOB WEIGHT SIDES! The slightly rounded areas are there for a reason, to prevent stress failure.
How's your crank nose?
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#3
by
Tron
on 29 Jan, 2013 18:32
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ill try for another machine shop, not many around here i know of though. power wise not sure where ill be at. this is the list of mods so far, a port and polish on the head and port matching the intake, k24 turbo running around 20-30psi, 2.5" exhaust, intercooler and a Performance Diesel Injection pump for either 20 or 30psi boost.
the engine is from my old mk3 golf and ran well before i scraped it, and the crank nose is undamaged.
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#4
by
CrazyAndy
on 29 Jan, 2013 19:35
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I'd still get the D-cut for insurance, but you're doing that anyway. And get the Racewares; that kind of boost will try to make the caps move around a bit.
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#5
by
Tron
on 14 Mar, 2013 08:52
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ok, so i got my crank machined, and my raceware main bearing studs have arrived. i've read here that there are two different main bolt lenghts. mine are the shorter ones. i was wondering if i should drill and tap the mains to the larger size even though i'm using the raceware main studs?
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#6
by
CrazyAndy
on 15 Mar, 2013 08:42
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do the studs thread in all the way? I found out that the Racewares threaded in up to the non threaded portion in my block. Personally, if the hardened studs fit, I wouldn't worry about it. If they fit already, drilling and tapping more won't help.
Pics of parts and engine? Build thread?
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#7
by
Tron
on 15 Mar, 2013 11:10
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Ok good to know! I'll be starting a build thread shortly keep an eye out for it