Vanbcguy's M-TDI Build

[libbydiesel]

I don't remember measurements offhand, but the humps are larger than either AAZ or AHU and less abrupt on the leading edge than the TDI camplate. 

[ToddA1]

I have the Rover pump on my ALH Automatic Vanagon and it works well.  I pulled it to bits before installing it and had to replace the camplate/rollers as they were pitted and replaced the governor shaft/gear/flyweight assembly as it was oddly worn.  For the camplate I used a Cummins 4BT.  I did not have any difficulty with the idle and kept the stock Rover spring.

Where are you getting replacement parts, or are these from a cache that you have? 

Since you had the pump apart, which seal kit did you use?  I'm thinking DGK121, because of the larger mainshaft seal, but Jeremy thinks he used DGK126.  Thanks. 

-Todd

[vanbcguy]

Good call on Dieselmeken. I've emailed him, hopefully he can help with a pump.

I'm pretty sure I could get something together that "works" on my own but I'm really hoping for a pump built by someone with more experience than me. There are enough variables and challenges in this build already!

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[libbydiesel]

I have the Rover pump on my ALH Automatic Vanagon and it works well.  I pulled it to bits before installing it and had to replace the camplate/rollers as they were pitted and replaced the governor shaft/gear/flyweight assembly as it was oddly worn.  For the camplate I used a Cummins 4BT.  I did not have any difficulty with the idle and kept the stock Rover spring.

Where are you getting replacement parts, or are these from a cache that you have? 

Since you had the pump apart, which seal kit did you use?  I'm thinking DGK121, because of the larger mainshaft seal, but Jeremy thinks he used DGK126.  Thanks. 

-Todd

I have a decent stash of pump parts and used parts from there.

The DGK126 is for non-turbo pumps equipped w/ the cold start lever.  The DGK121 has the LDA seals and the large shaft seal but is missing the cold start o-rings.  If you are building an mTDI pump then you should not fit a cold start lever so the DGK121 is more appropriate.

[ToddA1]

I'll be resealing a Landy pump.... DGK 121, still?  Hmmmm....  I never took notice if it does or does not have a cold start lever. 

And what are people doing with the #3 injector?  Running it with the harness unplugged or sourcing a standard TDI injector?  Thanks.

-Todd

[vanbcguy]

My plan is to leave the injector there and unplugged. Otherwise I'd need a new injector line that doesn't otherwise exist. I was going to use it as an RPM sensor but then I realized the crank sensor is a better choice in my case.

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[bbob203]

You have to bend the line to fit if you use a standard injector on mine it is just not plugged in to anything.

[bbob203]

My plan is to leave the injector there and unplugged. Otherwise I'd need a new injector line that doesn't otherwise exist. I was going to use it as an RPM sensor but then I realized the crank sensor is a better choice in my case.

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Why not use the alt w terminal? 90amp has it 120amp doesn't.

[vanbcguy]

I'll be using the W terminal for the tach, but my VNT is going to be controlled by a stand alone controller and I need an RPM signal for that too.  I am using an arduino - it is more than capable of running the turbo but the high frequency of the W terminal signal will cause it to have to do a lot more work to count the pulses than it would if I use the crank sensor.  Besides, if I don't use the crank sensor then I need to make a blockoff plate for it - might as well just use it since it's there.

[8v-of-fury]

I'll be resealing a Landy pump.... DGK 121, still?  Hmmmm....  I never took notice if it does or does not have a cold start lever. 

And what are people doing with the #3 injector?  Running it with the harness unplugged or sourcing a standard TDI injector?  Thanks.

-Todd

Yup mixed up my part numbers. DGK 121.

I have had my third injector unplugged for 2 years now.

[snakemaster]

when i did my mk3 golf tdi e to Mtdi i just left every thing pluged in exc the injection pump, RPM still works from ECU , riped out the center out of the maf as i lost 40lb/t at 1300 rpm , and moded the air box , heater light still flases but will pop it out to , would like to add a stand alone VNT controler at some point with a vnt 20 , so looking forward on how you get on

[vanbcguy]

Yeah in my case my car started out life as an AAZ.  If I wanted to turn it in to an electronic TDI I'd be in for just as much work as someone putting one in to a Mk2, which is a large part of why I decided to go mechanical.  For instance my cluster is AAZ-specific (has a W-fed tachometer) and my car has a very limited chassis ECU that runs the glowplugs including the famous "activate glow plugs when driver's door is opened/closed" feature but doesn't really do much else.

I'm pretty confident the VNT controller is going to work out well.  I can see it will need some tuning for sure; I am looking in to options for data logging.

[vanbcguy]

Welp, after poking around a bunch I decided to go with a Land Rover 300TDI injection pump which I managed to find in the US through roverparts.com...  Price was decent, PLUS it should come with a TPS on it already that was used by the Land Rover EGR system.  I should be able to adapt that for my VNT controller provided it is actually attached.

Land Rover part number is ERR4046, translates to Bosch number 0 460 414 099. 

From what I have found this one should work with my AHU pulley.  I will have to machine the mounting bracket hole larger but I have a machinist I know who should be able to take care of that.  From what I've heard the advance and governor should be suitable for my use.  In the end I decided I wanted to go with an 11mm pump as I had some concerns about higher RPM use with the 12mm pump plus it didn't really seem that I would need a 12mm pump for my power goals.

Anyhow now I get to nervously wait for it to ship - always hard dropping $1300 on something that you *HOPE* will work.  I really wanted to find a "new" pump with some sort of warranty on it that I wouldn't have to open up right away, this should fit the bill.

[8v-of-fury]

Yes the ahu pulley will work . But irrc the key way sits 10* one way or the other from vw's shaft. So timing is by hand on the pump as a lock wont fit.

[vanbcguy]

Yes the ahu pulley will work . But irrc the key way sits 10* one way or the other from vw's shaft. So timing is by hand on the pump as a lock wont fit.

Yup, you are correct, here's a perfect example showing how it will be:

http://switchamotor.blogspot.se/2010/08/pump-position-after-tweaking.html



Pretty sure I can live with that - will make getting the belt lined up initially a bit more of a pain but I should be able to work with it.

I suppose I could probably get my machinist to cut a new woodruff key slot in to the pulley too but I don't know FOR SURE what the difference in measurement is.