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Author Topic: still to cold for motor oil...  (Read 6086 times)

Reply #30February 04, 2013, 12:05:48 pm

8v-of-fury

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Re: still to cold for motor oil...
« Reply #30 on: February 04, 2013, 12:05:48 pm »
For me in my particular situation. Yes. But you referenced the manual, it would not account for any motor oil in the tank lol.

So just to be clear, thought I'd state that that piece of the manual does not apply anymore to winter blending.

Also far from straight motor oil, only about 22%.

Reply #31February 04, 2013, 04:02:20 pm

8v-of-fury

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Re: still to cold for motor oil...
« Reply #31 on: February 04, 2013, 04:02:20 pm »
So it was definitely a plugged fuel filter.. Didnt show any signs just one day plugged. Even after sitting in a +10 garage all weekend. Sunday morning fired and ran for maybe 3 mins before cocking out.

New filter on pulled fuel from the tank a d it is idling as we speak.

Reply #32February 04, 2013, 04:49:13 pm

scrounger

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Re: still to cold for motor oil...
« Reply #32 on: February 04, 2013, 04:49:13 pm »
If you haven't done it I might recommend that you open the filter element to see what the nature of the contaminant was. Running 22% motor oil might have something in it. It is always fun to see what is coming into filters.

----
Un related but involves a mix of diesel and motor oil....

I had cut down the fork springs to stiffen them on my dirt bike. The only oil I had at hand to refill the forks was some 15w-40 motor oil. I was sure that it was too thick to run in the forks. I looked around and thought, add some diesel. I poured out the motor oil into a container of what I thought was about enough for the forks. Added about 25% more of 20% biodiesel. I mixed them up and decanted them into the forks in the proper amount.

The oil was pretty close to the consistency of the oil I had removed. Sure enough the forks work fine, smooth, controllable. No leakage in the past two years. I wouldn't have done it in the sump but for the application it worked good.

M2 Jetta TD.  Northern Missouri

Reply #33February 04, 2013, 06:09:45 pm

8v-of-fury

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Re: still to cold for motor oil...
« Reply #33 on: February 04, 2013, 06:09:45 pm »
For clarification, the motor oil was clean. Just 15+ years old lol.

Reply #34February 04, 2013, 07:51:25 pm

scrounger

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Re: still to cold for motor oil...
« Reply #34 on: February 04, 2013, 07:51:25 pm »
So no connection between the clog and the oil?
M2 Jetta TD.  Northern Missouri

Reply #35February 04, 2013, 07:53:45 pm

8v-of-fury

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Re: still to cold for motor oil...
« Reply #35 on: February 04, 2013, 07:53:45 pm »
I will be opening the filter, but no I do not think so. I think it was a partial ice clog.. that was still allowing the thinner diesel through. The thicker oil diesel mix got plugged up. Old filter weighed like 5lbs and when i opened the drain nothing came out.

However when I added some heat I got a lot of crap to come out of the filter, so it must have been froze up.

Reply #36February 04, 2013, 09:09:39 pm

wdkingery

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Re: still to cold for motor oil...
« Reply #36 on: February 04, 2013, 09:09:39 pm »
it is possible that motor oil does cause a coking of the rings, as you mentioned Jeremy.

I only say this because I have a pretty constant cloud that follows me as I drive.  Has a nice blue tint, most noticeable during acceleration, clearly unwavering.

But then, my primary GP wire fell off, so my GP's stopped working. Drat.  I thought i heard that relay clickin, so i figured i must just be down a plug.  These duraterms had been soo good, how could one be bad now.  So i had to resort to the no-no juice on the coldest of days we recently had (a bone chilling 10F a few nights in a row!) for 2 mornings.  When the ether lit, it would actually push the piston (and the starter!) backwards. 

Well i tell you i think the no-no juice had a kind of positive impact on the damn thing.  After it was no longer so damn cold, i set out to find the break in my GP relay wire, i hooked it back up, and it starts much better! no more smoke!  Well, for a week anyway.  It promptly went back to being a pig, and smokin light a freight train, but there was a week of clarity for the little thing, directly after huffin ether.

Reply #37February 04, 2013, 09:25:34 pm

8v-of-fury

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Re: still to cold for motor oil...
« Reply #37 on: February 04, 2013, 09:25:34 pm »
Yeah, but you are running the least maintained engine on 100% WMO..

lmao! I am kidding, I have no idea on your engines maintenance or anything so its hard to say why you smoke. It is unlikely from the oil, as diesels don't really do the whole blue smoke while idling thing. The oil will burn in the cylinder upon combustion and just come out as more black.

I think you are severely retarded on the timing if it is hinting blue whilst smoking.

Reply #38February 05, 2013, 11:07:15 am

wdkingery

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Re: still to cold for motor oil...
« Reply #38 on: February 05, 2013, 11:07:15 am »
I decided it was like when a diesel smokes white after first start up (incomplete combustion) but it's motor oil so incomplete would be blue.. What you think?

Reply #39February 05, 2013, 11:19:36 am

8v-of-fury

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Re: still to cold for motor oil...
« Reply #39 on: February 05, 2013, 11:19:36 am »
It should still be "white-grey". Gas engine smoke blue when they ingest their own oil because the throttle plate has not allowed anymore air to burn this new fuel, not that it would be heated enough with only 125psi and a spark ignition engine anyway.. So this then causes an extreme rich mixture. I can go richen up the Holley on my Cougar and make it blow tons of blue at idle, but it is not burning any motor oil.

I have found that when a diesel smokes blueish grey it is 7.7/10 retarded timing related, the other 2.3 times it may be bad injector spray causing severe issues with atomizing the fuel. When I had my 88 timed way to advanced in the cold it would blow pure white clouds at idle (after you eventually got it started).

What happens when you put your foot down at 2000RPM and your turbo hasn't spooled yet? You are physically allowing the pump to inject its maximum throttle quantity of fuel and no have provided more air to support 2000RM. The result is black smoke, fully un-burnt raw diesel particulate. Being that there is no throttle plate the cylinder will always be extremely close to a stoich A/F mixture. Without a turbo there is the same amount of air in the cylinder for each intake stroke at idle as there is at 4500, yet you can inject all that extra fuel to sustain 4500RPM.

What I am getting at is, the ounce or two of oil that may be burned in the cylinder should go unnoticed, the fact that the smoke trail follows you after you rev up and start driving kind of confirms injection timing. If it were still only ingesting an ounce or two of oil it should just be added to the diesel and burnt.

SOrry OP for the threadjack, to the original poster

I am going outside right now to see if she will start today and cut open my old fuel filter if I can find a hacksaw!! LoL

 

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