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#15
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 16 Jan, 2013 12:00
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you are supposed to pack them extremely loose..
and there is supposed to be LOTS of surface area for the oil to stick to the packing, while still allowing the blow by gasses to go thru the packing, unrestricted..
there isnt enough space inside a stock hockey puck breather filter.. they are not designed to be packed..
ive built a few aluminum catch cans, both baffled, and packed..
i find the ones loosely packed with brillo to work more efficiently than the baffled ones. could be that my baffles werent designed properly tho..
Well, I didn't use a very big screen, you could still blow through it pretty easily but I guess that was still too much.
I hope you don't mean actual Brillo too, you know that stuff with the detergent in it.
brillo is copper coated coarse steel wool, no nothing on it besides copper..
SOS pads are steel wool with detergent impregnated in them..
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#16
by
745 turbogreasel
on 16 Jan, 2013 14:32
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I have some stainless screen the Mfr. says can be used for oil vapor separation, but does anyone know which micron rating to go with?
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#17
by
Turbofan
on 16 Jan, 2013 14:43
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I'm planning on running one of these, as I got one off a truck I was working on.
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=370218715406Admittedly, they do get dirty, but a bath in the parts washer restores effectiveness. I like that yhey have a bung on the bottom too, which allows you to run a hose to a hidden catch can. Interestingly enough, in the stock application, it drains to a tube connected to the oil pan so there is nothing to empty.
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#18
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 16 Jan, 2013 15:17
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I have some stainless screen the Mfr. says can be used for oil vapor separation, but does anyone know which micron rating to go with?
micron? damn, must be some FINE screen..
your gonna have to have pretty good surface area for something that fine to work real good..
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#19
by
Gizmoman
on 23 Jan, 2013 05:07
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I like the idea of a catch can but have a question:
Do you drain it every now and then, or can you plumb the oil back into the block some how - maybe using a check valve to only allow it to drain back when the engine is off (no pressure).
Or, is the blow-by oil too carboned up to want it back in the engine?
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#20
by
rodpaslow
on 23 Jan, 2013 08:03
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The provent I use they suggest plumbing it back as you describe. I have it going back into the top of my oil pan. I know myself, I don't want to have to fiddle with it every now and then to drain it. my $.02
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#21
by
rodpaslow
on 23 Jan, 2013 08:06
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And it does use a check valve if you plumb it above the oil level in the pan, I'm assuming because there would be equal pressure in the pan and the valve cover so it would basically do nothing, but if you plumb it below the oil level in the pan they suggest you don't need a check valve. Not exactly sure how that works...
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#22
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 23 Jan, 2013 13:26
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And it does use a check valve if you plumb it above the oil level in the pan, I'm assuming because there would be equal pressure in the pan and the valve cover so it would basically do nothing, but if you plumb it below the oil level in the pan they suggest you don't need a check valve. Not exactly sure how that works...
i fed my return into the block vent on the front of the engine, where the vacuum pump exhausts..
it drained just fine, even with no check valve..
my old 1.5D would blow oil out of everywhere before i put the catch can on it..
would also lose oil out the breather, and where the dip-stick sits against the block.
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#23
by
Gizmoman
on 23 Jan, 2013 16:33
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And it does use a check valve if you plumb it above the oil level in the pan, I'm assuming because there would be equal pressure in the pan and the valve cover so it would basically do nothing, but if you plumb it below the oil level in the pan they suggest you don't need a check valve. Not exactly sure how that works...
Good advice fellas. I spoze I could install a T in the turbo drain line just as it enters the pan. My application is the 50 degree in a Vanagon and there's a "customized" fitting in the aluminum pan - below the oil level.
Thanks.
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#24
by
8v-of-fury
on 29 Jan, 2013 20:02
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Thread-jacking!
Would you recommend venting the spent crank gases? Or routing them back to the intake tract?
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#25
by
745 turbogreasel
on 29 Jan, 2013 21:39
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IMHO, back to the intake unless there is a good and specific reason not to.
ie, your blowby is filling the intercooler with oil, etc
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#26
by
8v-of-fury
on 30 Jan, 2013 15:18
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IMHO, back to the intake unless there is a good and specific reason not to.
ie, your blowby is filling the intercooler with oil, etc
Well it shouldn't with a catch can
lol. Back to the intake it is, thank-you. Just always see people venting to atmosphere..
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#27
by
camboscams
on 30 Jan, 2013 16:19
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Well i got mine mounted yesterday, i put it right below the battery and routed both the block and head vent to it and am currently venting to the atmosphere. At night with a flashlight with the engine running there is still a lot of vapor/steam/smoke whatever it is coming out of the catch cans air filter. It is unpacked currently and i plan on running it that way for awhile and see if oil consumption goes down and see how much oil i can drain out of it. If the can is empty after a few weeks i'll add some loose kitchen scrubbers to see if it helps capture the droplets.
Now on another note, my previous setup was the block vent just venting to the atmosphere and the head was more or less plugged, and with it set up with the catch can it seems to almost run better, once its wound up and under some good boost it really runs strong. Maybe i need to re-calibrate my butt dynamo but who knows.