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#15
by
bbob203
on 11 Dec, 2012 19:18
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Just got home its as if my battery is totally dead as a door nail..
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#16
by
bbob203
on 11 Dec, 2012 19:22
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pardon the ignorance how does one perform a voltage drop test?
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#17
by
TylerDurden
on 11 Dec, 2012 19:28
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Recharge battery with external charger overnight.
Tomorrow, crank with a DMM black probe on the battery neg, use red probe on the other connections (starting with the battery pos) - see if/where it falls below 11V.
Bad connection to Batt or alt can fail to charge.
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#18
by
TylerDurden
on 11 Dec, 2012 19:29
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Forgot to say disconnect the fuel cutoff to test cranking/voltage.
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#19
by
burn_your_money
on 11 Dec, 2012 19:49
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#20
by
8v-of-fury
on 13 Dec, 2012 20:27
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edit: and its kinda ghetto how its spliced in. Casing stripped of about 3/8 of an inch section and wire wrapped around it and taped up.
That is a legitimate wire splice, called a T-splice.
X3.8 on the voltage drop test.
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#21
by
745 turbogreasel
on 13 Dec, 2012 21:09
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Also might be worth your while to hit the starter solenoid output terminal with a jumper cable. if it pulls 500 amp, and still hardly cranks with no load, the starter is the problem.
Obviously be in neutral just in case.
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#22
by
8v-of-fury
on 13 Dec, 2012 21:32
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I have done a starter jump from the engine bay with the car in gear.. WOOWEE she jumps forward with a gut lurch when your leaning on the core support! lmao
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#23
by
bbob203
on 05 Jan, 2013 02:07
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can someone explain this starter jumper test deal better?
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#24
by
TylerDurden
on 05 Jan, 2013 06:27
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You can energize the starter by jumping +12 to the starter solenoid small terminal... but if the car is in gear, it can run u over.
Intermittent slow crank is usually poor connections, bad bushing, worn brushes/commutator.
Dead battery is usually bad connections, lose belt, old battery, persistent current draw (short, stuck relay).
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#25
by
bbob203
on 06 Jan, 2013 17:39
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Welp new battery, Big fat 2ga negative terminal grounded to the transmission bellhousing bolt. Tightened belts and Im firing off in half a crank. 1000ca 850cca battery group 34/78 dual terminal options on it. I think i may run a nice big wire from my alt to my battery via the positive side post.
I think my problem was a really wimpy ground causing bad voltage drop causing weak cranking and heating up wires all through the car.
As soon as i got it all hooked back up 1 cycle of the glowplugs no cs lever 34 degree it spun right up as if it hadn't been sitting lifeless for a month.
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#26
by
8v-of-fury
on 06 Jan, 2013 18:05
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Love it, great success story!
I too just got a 34/78 (1050CA 875CCA) and it spins the engine so DAMN fast.
My up and coming upgrades will also include;
- Big gauge battery cables
- Remove the starter and clean up the starter to trans mating surface
- Big body to battery ground
- Bigger gauge between alternator and battery (being that I have a 120A alternator.. it stands to pass quite the amount of current!)
- An entire tube of die-electric grease
