1986 Golf 1.6 N/A Crank No Start

[8v-of-fury]

Cranking Amps    875 CA
Reserve Capacity    120 RC
Amp Hour Rate (20 Hrs)    70 Ah

Looks good to me

However the shotgun to kill a fly method of just throwing parts at it without seeing what the problem is will get expensive fast. Until you replace everything that is .

[jhax]

I understand that but in all honesty I have been inspecting and probing and figuring and have had absolutely no luck, alternator tested good, battery tested good, alt excite wire getting voltage on both sides and LED lights up, new glow plug relay, new glow plugs, what else could there possibly be besides the battery and the belt?

[8v-of-fury]

Well if the alt tested good why replace it? If the battery still starts the car after you charge it and it holds that charge.. why replace it?

When the car is running and the alternator is turning it is not showing 13v + at the big alt stud or the battery??

[jhax]

Correct, I would replace the alt because it has a 1 year warranty, the battery because I hate lead acid batteries, i much prefer gel cell or dry cell batteries. And just to reiterate, no charge at battery OR alternator post.

[scrounger]

So you have a slipping belt and you are trying to fix it with a new alternator and battery.  

When you get done could you start buying parts for my car?

[TylerDurden]

Ouch.

A definitive diagnosis on the belt would be to tighten the belt and verify >13.5V.

If it still does not charge, there is still a lurking problem.

[vanbcguy]

I would not at all be surprised to find the battery is trashed after so many deep discharge cycles.  A car battery that is older already has its head in the noose, letting it go completely dead a half dozen times in a short period will kick the stool out from under it.

The battery test that was done was much earlier in this thread, there have been quite a number of complete discharge incidents since the battery test at this point.  I'd be cautious of that battery for sure.  Also remember that the battery testers at the parts stores are often primarily used to decline warranty claims by showing the battery is "good", even if it is down to a fraction of its "new" performance.  I also have had a battery before with an intermittent short in one cell - giving it a firm tap on the top would cause the voltage to go from 12.something to 10.something.  When unshorted it would pass the test, when shorted it would fail.  So those tests are in no way conclusive (well unless they say it is bad, then it probably is)

Anyhow, if it were me, I'd do these tests in this order:

#1.  Verify >13.5V between the big post on the alternator and the alternator case itself.  If not, stop here for further diagnosis with the alternator itself.

#2.  Measure from the CENTER of the positive battery terminal to the center of the big post on the alternator with the engine running.  You should measure < 0.2V or so - the closer to zero the better. Anything more means there is a voltage drop occurring somewhere along the way, be it the ring terminal on the alternator, the charging wire from the alternator to the battery, the positive battery cable or even the battery post clamp.  If using an analog meter use a low voltage scale (1.5V) and put the positive on the alternator.

#3.  Measure from the CENTER of the negative battery terminal to the case of the alternator with the engine running.  You should measure < 0.2V or so - the closer to zero the better.  Anything more means there is a voltage drop occurring somewhere in your grounds, or the negative battery cable, or the battery post clamp.

If all 3 of the above tests pass then your charging system is functioning fine.

It is not a bad idea to quickly hit the center of the battery post with a drill (even just by hand) and make a very good clean shiny spot, then put a blob of vaseline on it.  That way you will have a clean un-oxidized test point to use your meter on.

[jhax]

So i started my car tonight after work and noticed with out the headlights on the alt indicator light remained on (dim but on) constantly. So ill buy a new belt tomorrow and change out the alternator.

[8v-of-fury]

My light stays on as well with no load on the alt.. weird. Mine is a 120A on an AHU.

[jhax]

well the light remained on under load too not just without load

[scrounger]

Have you driven your car with the AC off? Does the belt squeal with it off.

[jhax]

i havent used AC in a long time. i started and drove the car today, the belt didnt squeal at all. checked the voltage while at idle and it read 14.6V no issues this time, i will drive to school today and see what happens, i bought a new belt today just in case.

[jhax]

so I tried to change the belt with no success, I cant get the pivot bolt for the AC condenser next to the block to loosen. Sprayed it with WD40 and no luck, the #8 L shaped hex wrench wont cut it.

[ORCoaster]

I hate those hex wrenches.  I use hex sockets.  3/8 inch drive with the properly sized hex on the end. Allows better control and more torque delivered.  Get a set you will love em.

[jhax]

Yeah I was thinking about that. Fortunately I went to a local aircooled shop in town and gave them my ALH crank to polished and one of the mechanics busted out his breaker bar and got it free.