I fixed the leak by just replacing the o-ring. I bought a full bosch kit so eventually i plan to rebuild the pump, just not this weekend. Also, the alternator belt shredded, we believe it tore because of a foriegn object because there was an impact looking mark on the injection pump pulley. Never found the actual part. We cleaned up the pulley before putting it back together so it wouldn't wear on the belt. It had the timing belt cover on so it wasn't exposed. Really no idea what got loose but it's not there anymore.I got it back together yesterday. Starts right away and runs pretty good. A little more smoke under load and a little less power than before (I think, I only had it for 5 days before it failed so I'm not positive). I think I just need to play with timing a little bit. We used a dial indicator to measure the pump timing but it was in thousands of inches instead of mm. I also need to check the cam timing and make sure it's perfect, we don't have the cam lock tool and were using a make shift part that might have allowed for 2 or 3 degrees or so of play.
first off sounds real odd about the belt so soon after the guy did the install. what brand was the timing belt, how did it fail and was the tensioner still tight to the block after this happened? sounds fishyalso on the timing, did the guy put it all back together or just replace parts and dump it on you? thats a crappy deal, it wouldn't take long to time the engine for you. i have a feeling i wouldn't be giving this person my business.you should probably get a bently manual for your car. if you timed the engine properly the cam and tdc should have been set so everything lines up and belt tensioned. then you rotate the pump around with the dial gage to get the desired advance on the pump, which there are specs for. there is no cam timing to adjust unless you messed it up the first time and are flirting with disaster and your engine guts smacking into each other again.
I've fixed rotary vac pumps by pulling the lid, driving out the remnants of the stock check valve, tapping the lid to 1/8 NPT making sure to chamfer the edges so the vanes don't catch and installing one of these check valves. Be sure that when you tap the lid you don't tap so far that the check valve will protrude past the lid. I then cut a 1/2" tapped the inside of a 1/2" barb fitting and tapped the inside of it to 1/8"NPT and attached it to the check valve. It works perfectly and is an upgrade from the stock piece in being much more robust.
...BTW your Bieber avatar is awesome.-Malone
When I figure out how to I will copy your post and make it an FAQ sticky since it seems all on here have been having vac pump issues all last year.
I've fixed rotary vac pumps by pulling the lid, driving out the remnants of the stock check valve, tapping the lid to 1/8 NPT making sure to chamfer the edges so the vanes don't catch and installing one of these check valves. Be sure that when you tap the lid you don't tap so far that the check valve will protrude past the lid. I then used a 1/2" barb fitting (I cut it off a fitting I had on hand), tapped it to 1/8"NPT and attached it to the check valve. It works perfectly and is an upgrade from the stock piece in being much more robust.