Now I have an Injector Pump LEAK

[DogDiesel]

After all the work I have done recently; now I have an INJECTOR PUMP Leak.
-This is a serpentine AAZ engine with AC and PS.
-Recently I replaced water pump, which is a booger of a job since the timing belt has to be loosened and counter pulley has to come off to replace that water pump.  Loosened belt, locked belt to crank teeth with a welders vice grip, locked the cam and IP with vice grips loosely securing belt to pulley cogs. After the timing belt counter pulley off, the water pump is a breeze.  Put that all back together and fired ‘er up with no coolant to verify back in time.  Good.
-while I had the coolant out I removed the standard radiator and replaced it with a GRIFFIN Schirroco race radiator with the bottom outlet on the left-drivers side.  Reason for this is that the standard radiator hose prevents AC hoses hooked up and bottom hose rubbed AC pump. Used Caddy fan shroud, cutting it down to size and brazing back together.  Cleaned up and use POR-15 paint to coat shroud inside and out.  One of the issues with Griffin radiators is finding a fan switch that fits, as it only provides a 13mm -1/2” hole.  Found one that fits and wired it in.  The Griffin radiator has near twice the cooling capability to  any standard radiator, as it is a two row cooling system, and is more than twice as thick.  I needed a little more cooling.  Running 70 and below, it is just fine, but when I take it up to run the freeways in the left lane, it gets warm.  Figured adding AC would take it to HOT!  Radiator setup looks sweet!  Fits better than any setup I have use in the past.
-My next project is to install an aftercooler.  Already have it on-hand to mount on passenger side between alternator and fender on slant.  It will be shrouded from front.
-Really don’t need any more power, it will outpace traffic and can run 90-95 on cruise.  Took it well over 100 on gps.  But it seems a little anemic from 3000 RPM up.  Lots of low end I want to keep with the way I have it geared.  3:67 with .71OD and 155-15 tires.
-So when I have the IP leak fixed, can I get the anemic 3000 up corrected without losing my bottom end?

Wayne

leaks steady cold but stops when warm.

[burn_your_money]

Do the governor mod while it's apart and away you go.

Next time you need to do the waterpump, remove the alt, AC and PS and then you can take it off that way instead of playing with the timing belt.

[DogDiesel]

It was so much easier doing it the way I did it.  Removing the PS pump, AC, alt is way more work.

I know you suggested do the governor mod...

 If there were no fuel leak, I'd happily run this engine as is.  I have plenty power.  Nearly no smoke.  This is the quietest vw diesel I have owned.  if i could stop this leak, I'd leave the injector pump as is, maybe turn up the fuel like I did on previous engine.

My gearing has it turning 2450 at 55.

My last 1.9TD I retimed it and tested-ran it in 3 degree increments and finally turned the timing back down. 
The timing curve has to be in the pump, so I keep my low end.

My question was can I fix the anemic 3000 RPM up without losing bottom end.   

[8v-of-fury]

You will pretty much never loose bottom end. You have bottom end because you have an AAZ with a small turbo on it, you have no top end because you have an AAZ with a small turbo on it

Upping the fueling and upping the boost will help with the top end, but in reality.. what do you need to be above 3000rpm for? My AAZ is happy under 2500 boosting hard by 2000.

[DogDiesel]

Good info
   I am going to nurse this leak till spring and then pull the pump. 
I have several priority repairs that I need to get out of my shop first.
The leak is minor and stops leaking when warm.

In the spring I will pull it in the shop, pull the pump and install the aftercooler.
I have the turbo off my old 1.9TD which is a 1.6TurboD that provides more boost.
Want to drive it a while and sort out the engineering changes to the radiator setup.

thanks

Wayne