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M-TDi First Timer Help
by
Henk
on 24 Dec, 2012 18:38
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First timer to all engines in general actually, so please be gentle
standard enough 1.9 m-tdi (audi 80 AHU, LR 300TDi pump), pump bracket modified to suit.
Also modified the LR hub to bolt the ALH pulley on, but it's nearly 10mm too far out, so the belt isn't on the whole of the pulley. I need the ALH hub too don't I?
the cam should be TDC (line up the slot with the top of the head?)
But i'm not sure where to find the TDC of the crank, it's on the flywheel right? How do i get to see that bar taking the gearbox off?
Don't suppose anyone has any pictures of a LR pump mounted up so i can see what goes in/out of where? should be fairly self explanatory though i hope
I've got the adaptor bit in the post hopefully to time up the fuel pump, and a dial gauge already
>have crank and cam at TDC
>set fuel pump with keyway facing injector #1 (top right i think?)
>put timing belt on
>tension
>thread in DTI adaptor with DTI
> ...?
As usual i'm in to deep on things i don't understand
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#1
by
CRSMP5
on 24 Dec, 2012 20:20
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my normal idi gauge set up fit no issue...
yes gotta use vw pully/hub.. i modded the stock ahu pully.. but yes the alh hub should help you..
my inital timming is 118
cam slow w/head
yes. key way is between 10 ad 11 o clock aka #1 injector line fitting out of the fuel pump..
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#2
by
libbydiesel
on 24 Dec, 2012 21:37
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Getting the hub installed at the correct timing position may be a bit of a bear. I actually have an ALH to install in a vanagon before too many moons and so I will face that dilemma. The difficulty I see (without having done it) is trying to place the main shaft at the correct timing position. The tension as you ride up the ramps of the camplate is considerable. Then trying to get the hub situated on the shaft at that position would be very difficult. The best I can recommend is to disregard the pump hub and lock pin as anything other than a rough timing, as is done with the IDI pin, and then fine time the pump by movement of the relationship between the hub and outer sprocket part using either pulse adapter and timing light (most effective), dial indicator or by ear. You could use the AHU sprocket, but would need to slot the pump mounting holes for timing adjustment. Good luck with it. I'm interested to hear more of your process.
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#3
by
snakemaster
on 25 Dec, 2012 17:20
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i fitted a LR pump on a vw tdi 1z a few weeks ago with the 1 peace pump pully one tooth forward from standard pump timming and she ran , will stick a pic up next week when i pop back over to the garage ,if that is of help
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#4
by
libbydiesel
on 25 Dec, 2012 17:51
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Unless you add slots to the mounting holes of the pump, then with the one-piece sprocket you have no fine timing adjustment. I see no benefit to that over fitting the hub of the two piece sprocket unless the one-piece is more readily available.
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#5
by
snakemaster
on 25 Dec, 2012 18:42
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Unless you add slots to the mounting holes of the pump, then with the one-piece sprocket you have no fine timing adjustment. I see no benefit to that over fitting the hub of the two piece sprocket unless the one-piece is more readily available.
i have sloted the 3 holes , it sliped my mind when i put the last post in , and i dont have the two piece sprocket/pully, thats why i done it this way (good spot ) all audi 80 are 1zs , and the first of the A4s untill 110hp and vnt then AFN if i mind right
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#6
by
Henk
on 27 Dec, 2012 15:32
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aye i thought so, i will see what i can find on ebay
I've heard 1.4mm is the recommended setting for this setup?
oh and i've got to swap the injector outlets for the ones off the original AHU pump right?
I've got a horrible feeling it went in the metal scrap bin though
hmm, does the ALH hub not have a slot for the woodruff key then? or do you mean to get the key facing the right place?
AHU/1Z same thing isn't it?
Won't be re-machining my pump bracket so i'll jst have to get my hands on the correct hub
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#7
by
CRSMP5
on 27 Dec, 2012 16:47
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press fit like cam gear... no key...
your the machiest right?? take stock pully, mod it like they do cam gears...
flat plate, sprocket drilled tapped, uotter holes slotted.. then split the pully so the middle will turn free of outter..
basic simple design people did on gasser back in the 70s..
i paid 100$ to get mine made up... 2 teeth of slot movement.... this way if i was off on #1 a little i could compensate..
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#8
by
Henk
on 27 Dec, 2012 18:45
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yes and no, i don't get a lot of time to play on the machines in work, mostly design these days
Does seem fairly simple to do, but i think it'l probably be less hassle to just find the right hub
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#9
by
snakemaster
on 28 Jan, 2013 17:16
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1z tdc with disco pump ignore the pug on the pully
one or two forward on the sprocket ,you can see the top mark
hope this helps
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#10
by
8v-of-fury
on 29 Jan, 2013 11:01
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#11
by
Henk
on 22 Feb, 2013 16:32
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Just noticed that I'd missed this thread.
I got an ALH 2 piece pulley, the pump bracket got machined open at work.
The pump is off again and waiting to go to Regcheeseman to be gov modded and whatever else is necessary to flow for at least 200rwhp.
Biggest challenge now will be setting it up right and getting it running.
Got some pics up in the Mid Engine Caddy thread if anyone's interested to see
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#12
by
Adamksi
on 23 Feb, 2013 03:51
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Timing the Landy pump with a two piece pulley is easy, you need to have the pump shaft pointing towards the top of the cam pulley, just about the click over onto the next cycle with the pulley/hub locked in place with the timing pin. Then run through the normal timing proceedure, dial gauge will tell you where you are, normally around 1.1-1.6. Then just loosen the three bolts on the pulley and rotate engine forwards or backwards to advance/retard to suit, might take 2 or 3 tweaks to get it bang on but no more than 10-15 minute job to time up properly, 1.32mm is the measurement I use and it starts on the dot, no smoke at idle and runs like a good 'un.
