Egr bypassing

[maddog007]

Hi guys,
Before i try to do the switch mod in smogs FAQ post.I like to know what i need to do to take the vaccum operation of the egr valve out of the picture.
I have a AAZ 1.9TD with air con & Egr system. Theres quite a few more vacuum pipes hanging around than some others on here, with out these sytems.
my egr line splits into two off the diapram(egr) ,one goes to the wastgate by the looks & the other into a solinoid on the strut tower somewhere.

what do i need to do with this set up ?
Also I think my wastegate also has another line going into it from somewhere ,would this be the line that i put a manual boost controller into in the future. ?

thanks guys.

[QuickTD]

The switch on the pump top controls both the EGR and the wastegate "opener". Disabling the switch per smogs DIY will both eliminate the EGR and give you "full time" boost.

[maddog007]

The switch on the pump top controls both the EGR and the wastegate "opener". Disabling the switch per smogs DIY will both eliminate the EGR and give you "full time" boost.

thanks QuickTD, your the man. I dont know whats quicker, your TD or you with an reply :wink:  . I thought there would be more to it ,thats why it takes me ages to do anything, i over think things.

so if i do the switch thing & adjust the actuator on the wastegate i wont need a manual boost controller then, am i correct.

[QuickTD]

so if i do the switch thing & adjust the actuator on the wastegate i wont need a manual boost controller then, am i correct.

Adjustment of the actuator works good up to a point. If you adjust the wastegate to get more than 15psi of boost the actuator will bottom out and run out of travel bit early. This leads to boost "creep" if you are running alot of fueling because the wastegate can't open far enough to bypass sufficient exhaust gas around the turbine. This is my current situation, in fact. If you're really looking to crank up the boost and fuel the MBC might be a better solution as it preserves the full range of wastegate travel.

[maddog007]

Ok ill keep that in mind,though i think i wont want to push the boost that high.

I only have one more question or two.

to do the switch i need to remove a cover also, but i dont have the special tool to remove any of these funny bolts with the star type head. what other tools can i use to remove them.

And when removing the connector (#4 in smogs pic) & getting power to the solinoid via #3, can i just conect the original plug of #4 to the #3 wire by using proper eletrical joiners. therefore keeping all tidy & not leaving the plug hanging as dicribed in smogs post.
How have you done it QuickTD ?

[QuickTD]

to do the switch i need to remove a cover also, but i dont have the special tool to remove any of these funny bolts with the star type head. what other tools can i use to remove them.

The tool is you need is a torx T20. I suppose you could grip the screw heads with vice-grips or something. A set of torx bits for a screwdriver is pretty cheap though, and you'll get use them again when you buy a fine GM product...

And when removing the connector (#4 in smogs pic) & getting power to the solinoid via #3, can i just conect the original plug of #4 to the #3 wire by using proper eletrical joiners. therefore keeping all tidy & not leaving the plug hanging as dicribed in smogs post.
How have you done it QuickTD ?

I removed the connector from the timing solenoid and tied it back into the harness behind the pump, out of sight. I have a policy about hacking up wiring harnesses, I don't do it... I then made up a jumper with #10(5mm) ring terminals soldered and heat shrunk on about 6" of wire. I removed the nuts from the fuel cutoff solenoid and the timing solenoid and placed the ring terminals on over the existing terminals and replaced the nuts. Neat tidy and completely reversable, just how I like it. Not sure about sunny New Zealand, but here in the land of snow and salt using "scotch lock" tap splices or other insulation displacement type connectors is an invitation to corrosion and failure.

[maddog007]

I found some torx bits sitting in a drill bit set i had, I always wondered what they wre used for, but unfortunatley the inside of the heads are pretty worn alreadyso im just making it worse, There a bit too tight, so vice grips it is. :twisted:

[wyldman]

You can leave the switch in place,and just disconnect the two prong grey plastic connector at the rear of the pump.It is for the switch,and will disable it.

Cheap simple and easy way to wire the advance solenoid,is make a small jumper harness.A male spade with two wires crimped into it,then two female spades on the end of the two wires.Unplug thg the fuel shutoff solenoid,and clip the male spade into the connector.You now have two female spades to connect to the fuel shutoff and advance solenoid.

[maddog007]

Well ive managed to do it the same way as QuickTD, it took alot longer than it should have because I lost the small nut on fuel cut off for about an hour,it finaly showed up on a obsure part of the block. :evil:

its tea time now,so i will take it for a test soon.

[maddog007]

Wow it actually worked, its much smoother in power delivery, no more turbo surge,it just pulls consistantly .

of course it hasnt given any more power,but that will come another day when i adjust the fuel & wastsgate.

One thing i notice while doing all this work around the pump,was that injector #1 ( closest to the belts) has one of the vacuum lines coming of it pluged for some reason.its the top side line,all the other injectors are normal.
anyone know why this would be ?

[wyldman]

Those are return line fittings.It should be plugged.

[QuickTD]

You can leave the switch in place,and just disconnect the two prong grey plastic connector at the rear of the pump.It is for the switch,and will disable it.

If you disconnect the plug you will need to short the 2 pins in the harness end of the plug together, otherwise you'll have full time EGR and no boost. On mine I just adjusted/bent the little cam on the throttle linkage back so that the switch was not actuated.

[wyldman]

Doesn't the switch,or circuit need to remain open ? I've always disconnected the plug,and it seemed to work fine.Don't see many with EGR,and /i usually control the boost with other methods,so maybe that's why it works for me.

Anyone know for sure ?

[QuickTD]

Anyone know for sure ?

Yup, I've accidently left it unhooked after tinkering a few times. The changover valve must be enrgized to remove the vacuum from the back of the wastegate actuator diaphram. Here's another example, read through the solution to "autobahn's" boost problem.

http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=9957&highlight=#9957