1.6D starts, then dies... fueling issue?

[16vjohn]

I'm finishing up a diesel swap into a Suzuki Tracker. I just finished timing the engine with all the proper tools and that appears to be spot on. When I started it for the first time it fired, rpms went up, then it died. This engine had good compression, new glows and very little blowby when it was installed in a Jetta. Something must have happened between now and then, because now there appears to be an issue with the pump. I'm at a loss as to how to proceed... and this issue is very hard to search for.

To be clear, I can duplicate this issue each time I try to start it. I doubt it's any type of runaway because the engine always stops immediately. Any ideas? Here's a youtube of the issue:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQps_eNQAmI&feature=youtu.be


Thanks

[theman53]

seems as if the fuel seliniod looses power or there just isn't enough fuel in the pump yet and still needs to purge some air. That didn't seem like a runaway to me, I would let it run some unless it is flying up to the governor point and let it settle in some. Let some of that newer diesel get in there. Report back your findings, maybe I am missing what you are describing.

[16vjohn]

Thank you. To clarify, the fuel cutoff solenoid remains powered the entire time, that little wire I twist together at the beginning of the video stays powered. There is a distinct click when it becomes powered, not sure if that can be used as an indicator for failure or not. There is a good amount of ATF inside the pump, do you think that could be causing this? I would atleast think it would run, perhaps a little rough.

Do you think anything inside the pump is stuck? I know a lot about these engines, but nearly nothing about the internal workings of the pump. I also tried tuning down the idle speed a bit, that didn't change the startup behavior. Can the governor completely cut fueling like this?

[burn_your_money]

Looks like air in the fuel to me. Do you have a clear feed line to the pump? Does it have air bubbles in it? Often after messing with the pump it will have a lot of air in it that will take a lot of cranking to get rid of.

[libbydiesel]

If the pump sat for an extended period of time, the fuel may have dried up in it and caused the vanes to stick.  That is very common and results in the displayed symptom.

[16vjohn]

I don't have a clear line... although, I'm inclined to agree at this point. Let me fiddle with it a bit more.

Edit:  Libby, how would one rectify such an issue? Like I say, it's got a lot of ATF in there that's been sitting for a few days.

Edit Edit: I've been reading on stuck vanes. I'm going to remove the pump and try the drill trick unless anybody has any better ideas. For what it's worth, I didn't have any problem bleeding the injector lines.

[burn_your_money]

Try pull starting it, or just cranking more. I'd install the clear line first to make sure that it's not an air issue.

Also, you can hook up a lift pump and force fuel into the pump, even if it has stuck vanes it will run like this.

How long did the pump sit dry for?

[745 turbogreasel]

Yea I'd go with a  lift pump, and check for leaks, that does look like a pump that bleeds down.
Air pressurized(only a few PSI) fuel can works too.
Fuel filter gutntight?
filter to pump hoses good?

[TylerDurden]

I usually "bottle-feed" to verify the IP lift section is working and seals are good:

fill a clear container with clean fuel
run clear lines from the container to the IN and OUT fittings on the IP
place container higher than pump
run engine for two minutes to purge air
place container lower than pump
let sit for ten minutes to see if seals allow air into the pump

AIUI, The lift section also pressurizes the IP to suppress cavitation once the air is purged, something like 40PSI at idle.

[wdkingery]

Did you attempt to hit the gas pedal right about the time it starts??

[16vjohn]

The lines were old and brittle between the injectors. I just replaced those. It probably sat since spring of this year, unused, but it was full of diesel at that point. It must have slowly leaked out on the 4 injector ports while I had it all tore apart, because I probably put 1/4 liter in the pump through the outlet banjo initially.

wdkingery, I didn't have enough time to hit the throttle, but I did dial up the idle screw to it's max, that didn't change any behavior.

I think I am going to pull start next weekend and see what happens. Perhaps that high revving pull start can blow the junk/air out. I guess we'll see. Beyond that, I'll get some clear lines and check for air intrusion.

Thanks everybody.

[Dakotakid]

You need to have that throttle shaft wide-open the entire time you roll it over. You were standing right there in the video and you could/should have done this. Additionally, you need some serious eye protection ANY time you are leaning over one of these. You have about 2,000 psi in the lines and the loss of vision could easily occur if there is any breach in those lines.

I'm NOT a big fan of pulling these engines when they have not been running like this one. Open that throttle....to me it sounds like it was going to light-up with a bit more reasonable effort.

And, don't even think of using ether. You sure you have electrical juice to that pump solenoid? I've had engines "kick" once just like this when the solenoid was NOT energized.