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#15
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 22 Nov, 2012 13:08
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Driver side might also be LH and passenger side RH. I think I got that right...
completely possible, our 63 Olds F85 is that way..
i know its like comparing oranges to hammers, but same idea..
and yes, you are right.. drivers side takes reverse threads..
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#16
by
steevz
on 23 Nov, 2012 00:10
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Driver side might also be LH and passenger side RH. I think I got that right...
completely possible, our 63 Olds F85 is that way..
i know its like comparing oranges to hammers, but same idea..
and yes, you are right.. drivers side takes reverse threads..
You got the threads spot on.. passenger is RH thread.. driver LH. I don't think it's got BUDDs.. all rims are exactly the same...and you can see the entire hole from the inner rim.. it just won't break free.. but the outter came over very easily... so maybe I have to take a second look. The lugs are huge... 14" rim with 1 3/8" OR 36mm lug nuts.
Super singles.. what are those? Will look into it.
Thanks.
Yes it's street legal in Canada.
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#17
by
bajacalal
on 23 Nov, 2012 00:31
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"Super singles" refers to the practice of replacing a dual wheel setup with a single wheel. Usually oversize, extra wide tires are used. The trucking industry has started doing this more and more, because single tire axles have less rolling resistance, less mass and are easier to maintain, though wear on the tire increases and weight capacity is slightly reduced.
You're description really sounds like Budd style wheels, and I know that they're using these on that side of the Pacific, I just saw a new Mitsubishi Fuso flatbed that had them.
And, I wanted to know if they're highway legal, meaning can you drive it on the highway? These are street legal here in some states I think but not allowed to travel on a (interstate) highway.
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#18
by
theman53
on 23 Nov, 2012 09:50
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#19
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 23 Nov, 2012 15:17
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hit the TIRE with a sledge hammer..
opposite sides.
keep going back and forth..
PB Blaster is your FRIEND..
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#20
by
steevz
on 24 Nov, 2012 14:50
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It has squares at the outside end of the studs.. soo.... maaaaybe it is budds.
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#21
by
steevz
on 25 Nov, 2012 21:25
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I have no idea if you guys will be able to help.. but let me ask..
So.....................
The brakes go from the master cylinder to the front two brakes.. then "one" line goes to the rear drums.. and before hand it goes to another cylinder looking thing... I think it MIGHT be a pressure regulator to maybe.. increase the rear braking pressure...
Anyways.. I've bled the rears.. ther are only 3 bleeder valves.. one on each front wheel and one on the rear driver side.. but the lines goto the passenger side then to the driver side.. hence the one bleeder? So,
You pump the brake pedal.. to the floor, again, almost to the floor, third time it catches in the middle and stays there.. hard as a rock.
So.. not master cylinder.. the middle cylinder.. dunno what it is called... pressure something.. maybe.. I think it might have shot o-rings letting fluid slip by.. until it builds pressure.. what do you guys think? There is 100% NO AIR in the lines.. but the middle cylinder deal ... it has a bleeder right on top of it.. and cracking it with the petal stomped does NOTHING.. first time ever a bit of fluid came out.. now.. nothing. stomp crack.. nothing? rinse, repeat.. im stuck here..
Does it sound like crud stuck in the valve body or cylinder? or what? I'm getting stumped here but that's the only reasonable explaination I can come up with.... Ideas?
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#22
by
bajacalal
on 26 Nov, 2012 01:29
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The chain of wheel cylinders without bleeders until the end of the branch, I don't think it too uncommon on older medium duty trucks, I've usually seen two wheel cylinders per side, one up/one down or one left/one right (each controls one shoe only) and the bleeder isn't until the final one. I don't know if it has that.
My guess about that part is that a pressure proportioning valve, or it's some sort of residual pressure valve which is like a pressure accumulator that keeps some amount of pressure on the very heavy shoe return springs, to keep them from fully retreating when you're driving. A lot of the pedal travel is to overcome the return springs. If it has electronics attached to it, then it's possibly an ABS pressure dump valve.
If it's ABS related, I would bypass it. If it's a pressure accumulator, I would try to make it work, it probably needs it, I know there are aftermarket things out there for this purpose. I would first try to find a part number on it, to figure out what it is.
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#23
by
steevz
on 26 Nov, 2012 21:03
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That was an excellent explaination.
The drums do have a cylinder per pad and the bleeder at the end.
It MUST be a pressure proportioning valve.. I'm going to remove it, and replace all the o-rings inside.. with hope that it won't let fluid slip back past it.
If you watch the fluid level in the reservoir, when you pump the brakes to get a hard pedal the fluid level drops. After having your foot off the brakes for a few seconds the fluid comes back into the reservoir and then the pedal is soft again.
So, I'm hoping a simple rebuild will get it working again.. it's the easiest thing for me to try first.
Thanks again!
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#24
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 27 Nov, 2012 15:17
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That was an excellent explaination.
The drums do have a cylinder per pad and the bleeder at the end.
It MUST be a pressure proportioning valve.. I'm going to remove it, and replace all the o-rings inside.. with hope that it won't let fluid slip back past it.
If you watch the fluid level in the reservoir, when you pump the brakes to get a hard pedal the fluid level drops. After having your foot off the brakes for a few seconds the fluid comes back into the reservoir and then the pedal is soft again.
So, I'm hoping a simple rebuild will get it working again.. it's the easiest thing for me to try first.
Thanks again!
sounds like the shoes need adjusted to me...
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#25
by
steevz
on 27 Nov, 2012 23:19
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Too much slack in the rear brakes could cause that much play in the pedal? Could be... haven't checked yet.
Don't know if they have self adjustors.. thanks! Another thing to check.