TTY head bolts - more than you might want to know.

[R.O.R-2.0]

i go one step further, i use copper anti-seize, or pipe thread sealant on ALL the head bolts i re-install..

You re-install headbolts? Dude, this whole thread is about replacing them

Tyler, not all engines on this planet use TTY bolts..

yes, i DO re-use TTY head bolts ONE TIME, after measuring them..

[air-cooled or diesel]

wtf you talking about?



does it matter who i am?

i DO know that you give BS advice over at the whoretex all the time..

you should never install or torque your head bolts DRY..

i never commented on oiling bolts, i did say i use copper anti-sieze if you'd bother to read what i posted, and that the head bolts i've recently bought have some sort of copper anti-sieze with them.
i'll say this (rather like again) cleaning the bolt holes in the block is important, esp if you do use (light) oil on head bolts.(or any other bolt like this situation, ie encased.)
....edit....leave it to PM's if need be, but never on the board.

[air-cooled or diesel]

also its very smart to get most dirt and gum out of holes too, and its not uncommon to have some, esp if someone else owned car. and considering your taking the head off and some is going to go down in those holes...

[air-cooled or diesel]

i saw at least 1 post of using brake clean and compressed air.++.

i take this statement back; if you use compressed air the cleaner dirt, etc. mix is going down the water jackets and oil holes.

[TylerDurden]

Advice in another topic suggested solvents & compressed air - but covering the blowback with a rag to collect the debris and dirty solvents and to protect one's eyes (and ears).  That rag also kept stuff out of other passages and the bores when I did it that way.

It is a fairly trivial matter when the engine is on a stand  - simply turn the block on its side to have the schmutz blow out the hole and away from the block, with or without the rag. (Oil may seep from the main gallery, so a small plug can be useful.)

[745 turbogreasel]

i saw at least 1 post of using brake clean and compressed air.++.

i take this statement back; if you use compressed air the cleaner dirt, etc. mix is going down the water jackets and oil holes.

[air-cooled or diesel]

Advice in another topic suggested solvents & compressed air - but covering the blowback with a rag to collect the debris and dirty solvents and to protect one's eyes (and ears).  That rag also kept stuff out of other passages and the bores when I did it that way.

using a rag is all i wanted to know, that clarifies that

[air-cooled or diesel]

this one is just for you, im not trying anything more than to clarify this

as seeing what just happened im just saying 1 thing.
i never said I put x,xxxk miles on my cars, but they do have that(apx).

[TylerDurden]

Got the TD fired up for the first heat cycle and subsequent 90^o re-torque.

FWIW, all the bolts (TTY) topped in the region of 140 ft-lb.

While the final torque is itself not the most important issue (clamping force is), it may be helpful to others to know what can be expected.



(edit: text for superscript)