Guys, I had started another thread under the IDI section (yes, still a novice), but then remember I had promised to come back and share my solution to the age old problem of finding a sending unit for our old grease burners...
Well, after doing some research, I determined that my tank's depth was ~9.5"; and the calibration requirements between sender and gauge were ~33-240 ohms. Based on this information, I located a Moeller reed type Marine sending unit, with 9" of vertical travel; stainless steel construction; and proper resistance. Here's the part details:
While this part was on order
(Product Description: Moeller Reed Switch Marine Sending Unit Tank Depth 9" - Product # 035761-10), I took my tank to the local radiator shop to have it boiled out; re-sealed internally; and external coating.
Once I had the sending and tank back in the shop, I started by fabricating a round adapter plate, which would be sandwiched between the new sender (it's gasket) and the fuel tank. Please note that when you cut the hole in the center of the adapter plate, you will have to offset it (towards the drivers side on my truck) ~ 1/2" to prevent the float from bottoming on internal baffles. Once you've drilled the main hole, you will quickly see which direction you need to adjust it. So, here's what I came up with for the adapter plate:
I drilled and tapped 5 holes (8-32) to accept stainless set screws, which were used to mount the sending unit. The set screws are loctite'd in and flush with the bottom of the adapter plate - do not over install them as it will lift the adapter plate and you will have a leak. Here's what it should look like:
Once you have drilled and tapped for set screws at the sender, check the sender for fit. You then drill 5 thru-holes (1/4") for self tapping screws around the perimeter of the adapter plate to mount everything to the tank. When final fitting, it may be necessary to shift the aluminum plate around some
just to be sure the float isn't bottoming on a baffle. When you've got it located, mark the holes, and remove the assy. Drill holes through the top of the tank, corresponding to the 1/4" holes in the adapter plate, and mount the sending unit's adapter plate to the tank.
Be generous with the sealing compound. I did not use a gasket. Here's what you should end up with:
Now, you can install, for the last time, your Moeller Sending Unit and wire the unit in. I used ss nylon nuts to secure the sender, with loctite on the adapter end. I also checked operation of the unit before final wiring, and the gauge worked perfectly, with much quicker response time than the original unit. And here's the final installed unit. It fits nicely under the sheetmetal, is made of stainless steel; it's calibration is spot on with no "catch up" cycles from top mounted pivots; and I can buy a replacment at any local marine store.
Like I said earlier, this mod worked great on my truck, and it's 100 times more accurate than the original hardware. I hope you fellas find this helpful, and I apologize it this is a redundant read, as I think I posted, originally, in the wrong forum.
I'm also testing here to see if my pics are actually posting with the text. If not, I'll just post the pics and you can see it's a simple job.
S
Topic: Fuel Tank Sending Units - Modern Upgrade... (Read 5690 times)
