No questions, Just happyness

[Toby]

You are cranking this thing with WOT, aren't you? If you do not, it will take forever to get it to fire. WOT pushes the air through the hard lines and injectors much faster.

[monomer]

Tried everything.


I don't think it's revving fast enough. More chug-chug-chug then usual. New battery Friday, and I'm going to quote a starter rebuild locally (No parts store BS)


Can the pump timing be 180 out? and how far out can it be and still run? The keyway on the gear was rather sloppy.

[8v-of-fury]

The pump can be 180* out internally.. did you rebuild or have it rebuilt? did it not run before?

With the pump and now probably lines full of fuel, it should fire off pretty readily. Assuming you have good compression and your glow plugs are working.

[theman53]

Tried everything.


I don't think it's revving fast enough. More chug-chug-chug then usual. New battery Friday, and I'm going to quote a starter rebuild locally (No parts store BS)


Can the pump timing be 180 out? and how far out can it be and still run? The keyway on the gear was rather sloppy.

If you tried my suggestion of towing it in 2nd...key on... then you tried everything. Took one of mine about 1/2 mile to start to chug and then 3/4 mile to actually start. This was after cranking until the battery died 2 times.

[8v-of-fury]

If you tried my suggestion of towing it in 2nd...key on... then you tried everything.

gots no brakes to stop it with..

[theman53]

Use a long rope and don't get close, when it fires downshift to 1st, then go nuetral, until it stops. Go flat or uphill. In all reality you could tow it in 1st at 7mph or so as that is way more than idle and what a starter can turn.

Maybe its me, or where I grew up, but there are a ton of goat roping fixes that will get you by.

[ORCoaster]

It's you AND where you grew up.  Goat roping?  Keep a spare behind the tool box or what?

[8v-of-fury]

Yeah.. wow, Ohio.. I.. have nothing. lol

[monomer]

I'm in the city.

I'm pretty sure the brakes are fine, but its not worth the risk. Glow plugs are new(er) with low miles. Car has a brand new 1 notch HG and arp studs.

Pumps never been apart. New battery on friday - and if it doesn't crank faster: new starter.

[ORCoaster]

I didn't see here where you have verified two things that will likely give you fits.  1/ fuel delivery to the injectors.  Have you cracked the injector nuts at the top of them when cranking does fuel spritz out or leak some?

2/ Is the fuel being delivered at the right time.  Might be that you have that key way trouble where it is mashed over to one side and is affecting the timing.  Pop the pulley off and see what is the problem there.  If the pump has not been worked on then getting the mark on the pulley lined up with the one on the bracket would be proper setting.  Dial gauge setting equals?  Oh you don't have that tool that's not so good but not insurmountable either.  Just use eyes on marks and TDC in the hole.

If it won't start there is always the Ambassador bridge right?  One push and Canada has more recyclables.  Don't forget to roll up the windows.

If I were visiting my sister or brother I could come fix this for you but not the case.  Livonia Lizards they are.

[Toby]

Are you saying you have brake pedal but you are afraid they might not work? Tow starting will save you a lot of grief and money. Just try the brakes when you first start towing it slowly. The brake discs and drums may develop some rust from sitting that may take a few stops to rub off, but you will still have brakes and they will get better with each stop.

Its important to remember that a diesel with completely dry bores will crank slowly and draw a lot of current. The same is true of bores that have been washed down with fuel. Either could be your problem and a new starter won't cure that.

You could have all manner of minor leaks on the suction side of the IP or a bad seal in the pump. This is best diagnosed on a running engine. Pull starting it will get you to that point. If you drag it far enough it will start with lots of problems that will then become apparent and easy to fix. BTW I almost never have to drag one even 1/2 a block to get it to start. Often times they are running before I get to the end of my driveway. I did have to drag one 1/4 mile one time to get it to start, but it was so worn out I was surprised that it even ran when I took it apart.


It also does not take much of a timing error to make them start hard. Borrow or buy the timing tools and get it right before you try to start it w/o towing. OR just tow start it and go from there.

[monomer]

It gets fuel to the injectors. 

Something I just noticed: It's REALLY easy to crank by hand. I've never had one of these engines here properly running, so I don't know the feel - but it feels easier then my K-car. Usually not a good sign.

Battery's new. Still wont crank for any extended period of time, I wonder if I biff'd some of the wiring (It's been awhile since I've seen it wired) Batter light and oil light stays on, GP light cycles as normal. I'm going to get the starter rebuilt, as it's one less part to worry about - I want this car to start everytime.

STILL getting air in the fuel lines (clear line) Replaced all the crush washers. Has anyone ever seen a fuel bracket crack? I need to inspect it, somethings up.

My buddy has a ram1500; I might get him to pull it. I only have a city block here to work with, folks. Damn suburbia.


/headache

[monomer]

Oh, and on the IP timing bit: I'm a machinist by trade, and have a 1 inch travel .001 starrett indicator in the garage. Suppose I could fashion a way to mount this and do a proper timing job?

Money's tight. If it's an IP problem, I have four here to choose from. Like I said, this one came off the car when it ran, and was purchased in 07 from the parts place by the PO of the car.

[8v-of-fury]

It gets fuel to the injectors. 

If you have fuel at at least 2 of the injectors from the lines then they are pretty much ready to go. You'd be surprised by how little fuel is actually injected to idle these engines.

Something I just noticed: It's REALLY easy to crank by hand. I've never had one of these engines here properly running, so I don't know the feel - but it feels easier then my K-car. Usually not a good sign.

I assume you have a wrench on the crank bolt? 19mm 12-point? What size bar do you have on the wrench? LOL. It should be super duper easy between compression strokes, like when 1 is at TDC compression for the timing process. Keep in mind the 400psi cylinder pressure will never be gained turning the engine over at half an rpm.. so I would not be alarmed it turns to easy.

Battery's new. Still wont crank for any extended period of time, I wonder if I biff'd some of the wiring (It's been awhile since I've seen it wired) Batter light and oil light stays on, GP light cycles as normal. I'm going to get the starter rebuilt, as it's one less part to worry about - I want this car to start everytime.

There is like 5 wires in the engine bay of an 83 Rabbit . For running purposes, the pump needs a 12v keyed source (key in run) to its connection on the distributor head. The starter has two connections, the big lug gets a thick wire direct from battery positive and the small spade is 12v hot when the key is in its furthest position (start).

STILL getting air in the fuel lines (clear line) Replaced all the crush washers. Has anyone ever seen a fuel bracket crack? I need to inspect it, somethings up.

Thought you had a lift pump installed inline? The fuel line should then be pressurized shouldn't it? And if anything there should be fuel leaks out not air leaks in?

Alright so here is what we are gonna do. You need to isolate the problems one at a time and determine what is wrong with each system one at a time. You are trying to kill a fly with a shotgun here, and its not really working.. You keep spending money, but are no further ahead. Ya'dig?

Clearly something is up with the starting system, isolate it. Remove the stock wiring from the pump and the starter except for the large gauge wire directly from the battery. Take a small gauge jumper wire and attach it to the pumps spade terminal, attach the other end to the batteries positive. Take another small gauge jumper wire and go from the starters spade terminal to the batteries positive, this will cause the starter to turn the engine over so be ready for that. Do you notice any difference in cranking? If not then there is only one more suspect, the big wire from the battery to the starter. It is likely old and corroded within the rubber sheathing and not doing a good job passing current anymore. If in doubt, replace it is cheap.

Glow plugs, yes the dash light is coming on.. but this does not mean they are working, unfortunately. So another jumper lead would be useful here, but this one needs to be large gauge. 10g or larger. Each glow plug pulls roughly 9amps so you have 36-40 amps there, and need the gauge to support that. Again from the battery positive to the copper buss bar running across the front of the engine between glow plugs. Give them a good 10 seconds, remove that wire from the battery and touch the starter wire while holding the throttle open with your hand. It should fire off.

With these simple machines you must often take a step back and go at it one piece at a time.

[ORCoaster]

Very well put 8V  if this doesn't get it going I don't know what to say.  Only three parts need 12 positive, and you named them.  Should he also clean the ground to the engine and battery?  How many goofy problems are solved by cleaning or adding another wire? 

Have we determined Glow plugs work?  Sparks at the touch of the bus bar should be a good indicator some if not all are good.  Still might need to pull and do a jump across the battery to see them go red.

Killing a fly with a shotgun, what a visual that is.  Thanks for the laugh I had a hard week.