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#255
by
RabbitJockey
on 03 Aug, 2013 21:19
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8v: I think of the k03 moving a bicycle tires worth of air and mine is moving a truck tires worth of air.
I punched some numbers, and our engines should actually move nearly the same amount of air through our turbo's at the 4000-4500 RPM range and WOT (roughly 240-245 CFM). I will need 3 less psi as well because of the larger displacement.
yeah but he has a way better intake manifold and porting and valve size and his compressor is capable of flowing nearly twice what a ko3 can do.
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#256
by
theman53
on 03 Aug, 2013 21:44
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At the request of Mr Rabbit Jockey Travis I have to tell what the rebuilder did.
He added a 360 degree bearing instead of the 270. Also, he put a different shaft into it. The new shaft is threaded backwards so that if the compressor would try to spin backwards it will tighten. This will help when it "surges" from now on I will call it gagging. My only fears now are 1. the nut will unthread under normal boost. 2. The shaft will snap.
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#257
by
theman53
on 07 Aug, 2013 09:26
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This is the idea I will be trying if I need to. Thanks to Travis this may stop the gagging problem. From here :
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33903&page=2
I don't know why he is running intake boost and boost from the wastegate unless he is sending it to the wastegate there. other than that it looks good to me.
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#258
by
RabbitJockey
on 07 Aug, 2013 11:47
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that thread was a good read, that guy seems to have it fingered out, especially with how to tune it, i like how he used the check valve, which wasn't really a check valve... more of a one way restrictor
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#259
by
RabbitJockey
on 07 Aug, 2013 12:45
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I don't know why he is running intake boost and boost from the wastegate unless he is sending it to the wastegate there. other than that it looks good to me.
i thought about this more, in the picture, he is just showing that he Teed into the line that normal would go to the wastegate or boost gauge. i had thought the same thing is you like why the hell would you have 2 sources of boost when they are the same thing.
ideally i think you'd want to have one check valve going to the bov, and then 1 little adjustable restrictor to control how quick the bov lets the air that is holding the valve open back out, which would change how long it stays open.
i think how he put the bov on the cold side of the ic is important too since the psi will be lower there so the drive pressure will hold the valve shut better.
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#260
by
theman53
on 07 Aug, 2013 16:55
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I didn't see the check valve part, I am pretty tired and keep missing things. I will look again. I would think as long as the boost is bled off that it would be OK. The DP should open it and when it shuts it should be equal or DP higher right?
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#261
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Aug, 2013 18:16
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So you have boost on one side of the bov and emp on the other?
This will keep everything legit whilst spooling? I have seen some big diesel builds where they made max power and boost with the external wastegate wide open and venting some excess exhaust gas.
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#262
by
theman53
on 07 Aug, 2013 19:54
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Yeah, apparently the light spring keeps it all good when at idle or similar per se.
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#263
by
theman53
on 10 Aug, 2013 17:47
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SO...after much theory the rubber has hit the road. I did my test and saw a max drive pressure around 40psi and max boost around 18...although most of the time it was only 5-10psi apart. The EMP being higher. The only way I could get it to 40 was to kind of trick it to get there. When they were both around 17psi if it was a normal pull, and 10psi EMP to 5psi boost when it was starting. Boost catches up to the EMP quickly and they are about even most of the time. The EMP drops about the same as the boost. I had the EGT was no higher than 800f no matter how hard I beat on it. So either the 360 bearing does wonders for this thing or the turbo had some issues before. The only other thing I saw was that some of the exhaust manifold and downpipe bolts were looser than I like but not LOOSE. The DP ones were a bit too loose as I was missing a nut on one. I don't think it would make a difference but I figured I would throw that out there. I could add more fuel and more boost now but I think I will just drive it a bit and see.
I also changed the gearbox oil as it was needing it. I found and added my exhaust hangers as they had fallen off in the turbo trade. Need to do some work on the rest of the car but all is well now.
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#264
by
Gizmoman
on 10 Aug, 2013 22:09
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Sounds good. Congrats.
Are you happy with the changes you made to the head and intake?
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#265
by
theman53
on 11 Aug, 2013 02:06
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Yes, the head and intake rock. After driving it around more today it pulls better off the bottom but it doesn't hit as hard as it did earlier. I think it needs more fuel now. Before if you wanted more you just asked it for more, now it seems to not want to go like it did, but it has more take off. I think it is a very good improvement. Love it.
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#266
by
Gizmoman
on 11 Aug, 2013 08:01
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With EGT maxing at 800, you should have plenty of room for more fuel
.
What do you thing is the biggest reason for the low EGT numbers - a massive intercooler or just not enough fuel?
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#267
by
theman53
on 11 Aug, 2013 09:43
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Everything is identical as last time except I have .00000001% more exhaust manifold volume as I capped my flare fitting after I ran my EMP test. Besides that the turbo has been rebuilt and I added that exhaust hanger. Nothing that would change the EGT that drastically I would think. I took the intercooler off to clean it out but only some aluminum dust came out, not like it was restricted or anything.
The 360 degree bearing he said was a good upgrade to help spool but not much else. If that is the difference in the EGT this is the best upgrade to the car yet. It pulls similar to the ALH off bottom now but it doesn't hit as hard when it does come on mid to full boost.
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#268
by
8v-of-fury
on 11 Aug, 2013 11:13
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It pulls similar to the ALH off bottom now but it doesn't hit as hard when it does come on mid to full boost.
Somehow the turbo completely changed the way it moved air and the power it gives the engine? I am confused on this one. Not saying that it is bad, or something is wrong.. just how in the hell does that happen lol?
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#269
by
theman53
on 11 Aug, 2013 23:19
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I have no clue what happened. It acts completely different now. Before it boosted but hit harder up top now it pulls from the bottom more and only gets to 800f egt so something changed. Maybe the entire time something was off on the last go around and this time when rebuilt it is as it should have been? I am hoping. Still pulls ok, but needs more fuel. I will give it that in about 500 more miles
