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Author Topic: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D  (Read 135129 times)

Reply #45September 22, 2012, 09:32:18 pm

theman53

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #45 on: September 22, 2012, 09:32:18 pm »
I worked on the intake today and have it basically ready to weld. I am just going to stuff 10" of tube above the bolt holes and recess it into the plenum 1.5" or so. Should fit under the hood.

Now I also measured piston protrusion and found that the tallest piston is #3 with .026" the rest measure .019" ... what do I do? should I take it back to the machinist and have him deck the block more? The reason I ask is .026 is the smallest for a 1 notch and the .019 is .007" smaller. This is real similar to what I had before and I always had a bit of white smoke. What to do, what to do???

Reply #46September 22, 2012, 10:32:34 pm

CrazyAndy

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #46 on: September 22, 2012, 10:32:34 pm »
Get the block decked more, and while there (if you want) see if you can get 0.007" shaved off that piston without creating massive imbalance.


Reply #47September 22, 2012, 10:41:28 pm

theman53

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #47 on: September 22, 2012, 10:41:28 pm »
I cannot cut the piston as it has a coating on it now. Also, I need all of them to stick up more not less, as the 1 is the lowest number of the thickness spec for 1 notch and the other 3 are way under.
« Last Edit: September 22, 2012, 11:26:32 pm by theman53 »

Reply #48September 23, 2012, 09:37:31 am

RabbitJockey

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #48 on: September 23, 2012, 09:37:31 am »
If I was you, I'd deck the block and get the big end resized on the rod from the cylinder with the most protrusion, make sure the machinest knows what you're trying to do so they take the right Mount of metal off the right side of the rod I guess they have to take .007 off the end caps mating surface then rebore the big end with it cutting towards the small end, that oughta do it. Then deck the block .007 add marinara sauce and enjoy.  I think thats probably the only proper way to do it
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Reply #49September 23, 2012, 09:38:50 am

RabbitJockey

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #49 on: September 23, 2012, 09:38:50 am »
U still need measurements? I forgot about u call me if so
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Reply #50September 23, 2012, 10:02:52 am

RabbitJockey

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #50 on: September 23, 2012, 10:02:52 am »
And actually I guess it doesn't matter which side of the rod they take the .007 from as long as when they bore the circle it cuts towards the small end
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81 Rabbit:TDI-M ported head, Frank06 cam, PD intake, hybrid T3 turbo, Renault intercooler, Syl20 11mm pump, light weight fw, and yellow California Clutch clutch kit

Reply #51September 23, 2012, 10:04:21 am

theman53

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #51 on: September 23, 2012, 10:04:21 am »
I still need that measurement, so yeah let me know.

I am not too worried about the .007" I am thinking if I have it milled then I would have it cut so that the the one sticking up the most would be at the high end of a one notch and the others would be more at the low. Actually, they would be .002" lower than the lowest .026" number. I may look into the other 2 and 3 notch and see if they would have a better range. I also have 3 other rods that I could have balanced and matched to the #3 in the car to see if they would bring it up some. I just don't know how big of a deal it is for them to be so low in the protrusion #s. Will the short ones light the diesel correctly or not? Should I even worry? I had the same deal on my last engine only all were short of the 1 notch numbers, not this much, and it always had a white haze if you looked real close...even after an hour drive in the summer it still had it.

Reply #52September 23, 2012, 10:07:41 am

libbydiesel

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #52 on: September 23, 2012, 10:07:41 am »
Did you have your rods re-worked?  I would try swapping pistons between that single higher one and one of the shorter rods.  Sometimes a slight height discrepancy in piston and rod can add up.  Swapping parts can result in a happy medium.  The stock rods have the length stamped in the cap.  They should all match, but to fix that height discrepancy you could swap the one rod for one that is shorter.  I don't mind a little piston height discrepancy, but I want them all to fit within the spec for a single gasket thickness.  If you shaved the .007 off the deck they would all just barely fit within the spec for a 1-notch.  

Reply #53September 23, 2012, 10:28:56 am

RabbitJockey

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #53 on: September 23, 2012, 10:28:56 am »
I am just thinking since u have performance in mind that matching them would be a good idea, and it sounds like ur going to the machine shop either way, having 1 rod resized can not cost very much
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Reply #54September 23, 2012, 02:00:04 pm

theman53

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #54 on: September 23, 2012, 02:00:04 pm »
1,2, and 4 are right at .019"-.020"
3 is at .026"
So if I took off .005" from the deck, the new numbers would be .031" for #3 and ..025" .024" which would get close to the correct bottom number and right at the top of the top number for 1 notch mechanical.

I was just worried about the .019" being enough for 1 notch. As I could assemble it as is...If it is enough.



EDIT: to answer libby, I did have the rods reworked. #3 is from this engine the rest are from the old one.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2012, 02:11:10 pm by theman53 »

Reply #55September 23, 2012, 05:20:06 pm

CrazyAndy

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #55 on: September 23, 2012, 05:20:06 pm »

EDIT: to answer libby, I did have the rods reworked. #3 is from this engine the rest are from the old one.

Well that explains why #3 is higher.  Did you check the end balance on all the rods?  Wouldn't want #3's big end to have more/less and have the engine eat a main bearing due to imbalance!


Reply #56September 23, 2012, 07:35:36 pm

RabbitJockey

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #56 on: September 23, 2012, 07:35:36 pm »
I just think if ur going to spend the money and take the time to deck it, why not spend the extra 20 bucks and get it sized to match and then feel real good about it
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Reply #57September 23, 2012, 08:03:12 pm

theman53

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #57 on: September 23, 2012, 08:03:12 pm »
Rods were shot blasted, balanced, and weight matched to +- 1 gram.

I will see what is going on before taking it back, does anyone have a definative answer on how short the pistons can be and still do OK?

Reply #58September 23, 2012, 08:24:09 pm

hillfolk'r

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Re: I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D
« Reply #58 on: September 23, 2012, 08:24:09 pm »
Nope,no answer.sorry :(
but yes that sounds like 3 is the oddball...
cantcha scare up a complete set of rods from another engine,or yea,get em remachined so u at least get the same protrusion on all,or close.
you could try swappon pistons around,but rod 3 sounds like the odd man out
Throttle cables ftw

Reply #59October 08, 2012, 11:50:40 am

theman53

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I am just going to go with the 1 notch and say screw it. .005" under will be less than .5 of compression, I was just worried about "quench" and how it would work. I will find out and I am sure it won't be too bad.

Now the question I have is. I have a hydro head and a mech block. I know how to plug off the hole in the MLS gasket to run it, but will I need to? I am going to have the extra hole in the hydro head welded shut. I have no cylinder heads here to get my head around it, so do I need to still plug that gasket or is it ok? I cannot remember how it works right now.

 

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