!979 Rabbit Diesel Need help!

[libbydiesel]

Compression fittings are not rated for the potential pressures in a braking system during panic stops.  Flare fittings are.  Use flares. 

[ORCoaster]

dooh,  Gee how did I space that one out.  What do they look like when you take them off the back of the brake cylinder?   Good that you caught my safety bad.  I know better.  A coupler with flare ends.  Might just need to cut and clean the line off and slip on the nuts, flare tool a bit and tighten.  Let us know how it comes out.

[CRSMP5]

if you wana screw with the stealership... factory recall on the inside brake line... free!!!!  just a fyi..

buy a couple 30/0 long lines, some couplers to hook them together.. or get the $$$$$$$ bulk line.. real soft/easy to bend.. supposedly no rust too.. and then flair the ends..

[vw-tim]

okay so to sum up things i have new rod bearings new pistons rings the block cylinders honed and a new head gasket new head bolts the head is good the valves are adjusted correctly... i torqued down the head and all but number 2 bolt would torque its like it wont tighten i did clean all the block head bolt holds but on #2 this was a prevous problem i was having the threads got messed up but i ran a tap in the block and cleaned them up cut a few new threads at the top that got messed up but i just tightened it much as i could and then torqued all the others.. i guess this might be the cause of my problem because all thought compression in the cylinders has all jumped up to about 300-320 range its still not hitting that 400 mark i need to be at correct?

so i kinda dont know what i can do here i guess because i cant get #2 bolt torqued thats the reason why im losing the compression. i do have 2 other 1.5L blocks one has a broken rod and other the head is all messed up the cam shaft was snapped on it but idk maybe the block is still good? i was thinking of just pulling the engine out of the car and then using that block or atleast inspecting it and just honing and then moving my pistons and new rings and bearings to that block and then putting the head all that stuff back on it. would that be a good idea? just ditch this block because that #2 bolt cant torque i just i dont know what else to do. suggestions please..

[745 turbogreasel]

Go ahead and waste your money, but you really should read back through this thread, make every check that has been recommended, answer every question in detail, compile the results, and post all of it here in a clear, specific, and detailed way.
The info you need to make a correct diagnosis is here in this thread already.
If you skip steps, it will come out wrong almost every time.

okay i will

[vw-tim]

also i have another question now when i was torqueing the head to the block yes my #2 bolt stripped the threads or wouldnt torque down but after doing the other bolts i did notice doing the torque sequence as described going from 37 ft lbs to 57 and then to 66 not all of the bolts would torque at 66... they didnt feel like tighting up more why would this be? is it a common thing that happens to 1.5L blocks because they are 11mm and is that why people use head stud bolts?

[ORCoaster]

Are your bolts too long or the flat washers too flat.  So that you are running out of length to tighten?  That is the only thing I can think of that would prevent you from tightening to spec torque.

[vw-tim]

Are your bolts too long or the flat washers too flat.  So that you are running out of length to tighten?  That is the only thing I can think of that would prevent you from tightening to spec torque.

hmm i dont think soo... i just bought these bolts from the gap

http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Rabbit/Engine/104/1

they are 11x98

is there any other place that might sell longer 11mm bolts?

[ORCoaster]

You don't want longer bolts you want shorter or thicker washers under the head of the bolt and between the car head you are squeezing down.  Or are you asking if some places sell bolts that are too long to begin with? 

I am not sure of the length.  At one time I knew but I have slept since then and consumed a beer or two as well.  CRS.

I do know that when I did my head a bit ago I had purchased a set of 12 mm expecting to have to replace them.  Once I got going on the repair I determined I had the 10mm hex head style and that fancy 12 pt hex bit was going in the tool box unused.  The 12 mm bolts were longer by quite a bit so the 98's might be what I used over. 

[8v-of-fury]

Hmm, ETKA shows me an 11x1.5x96 bolt for the head bolt for 1979's with serial codes prior to 799,999. Then the 11x1.5x98 for 800,000 and on wards until the 1.6.

Looks like you need thicker washers then buddy.

[745 turbogreasel]

My friend bought a box of bolts that cheap, and a fair percentage of them stretched, then broke before reaching torque.
Seemed to do OK if they survived the torque down, and we had  a lot of spares.
Is it even a stretch bolt on the 1.5?
If the block is split, the bolts  won't grab.
Measure piston protrusion yet?

[vw-tim]

f i get head studs and put them in this block they do go down farther then the head bolts so im thinking that a stud would go into the #2 and be fine.... but if it still doesnt give me the compression or whatever i need can i pull the head studs out and reuse them in another block?

pretty much can head studs be put into an block and then removed later and reused again?

thank you guys for all your help i really appreciate it!

[ORCoaster]

Can't answer that question having never installed studs in head.  Very interesting on the bolt 8V.  Grind off 2.5 mm?  could that be a solution?  Nah, better to just go another washer. 

[vw-tim]

Can't answer that question having never installed studs in head.  Very interesting on the bolt 8V.  Grind off 2.5 mm?  could that be a solution?  Nah, better to just go another washer. 

i just dont understand why it would be the washer though? cuz its not like the bolts are even bottomin out or is it because the head bolts ive been using the washer is to thick only allowing just alittle bit of the head bolt to thread into the block and then when i go to torque it the bolt eats up the threads in the block because they are weaker at the top... so with a smaller washer the bolt can thread down more into the block allowing it to be torqued and not chew up the threads in the block? but my question is why do they make these head bolts then if they wont even work? it just doesnt make any sense to me.. am i using the wrong head bolts? on another block the head bolts are not the 12mm they are the hex ones what if i just swapped those out and then try those and just see? i know you cant reuse head bolts but it might be atleast worth the test? idk

[ORCoaster]

Can't answer that question having never installed studs in head.  Very interesting on the bolt 8V.  Grind off 2.5 mm?  could that be a solution?  Nah, better to just go another washer. 

i just don't understand why it would be the washer though? cuz its not like the bolts are even bottoming I thought they were bottoming out and you couldn't get them to spec because of it/out or is it because the head bolts I've been using the washer is to thick only allowing just a little bit of the head bolt to thread into the block The threads are likely way down and you have plenty of bite there\ and then when i go to torque it the bolt eats up the threads in the block because they are weaker at the top...The bolts are chewing up the top part of the threads?  Like stripped out?/ so with a smaller washer the bolt can thread down more into the block allowing it to be torqued and not chew up the threads in the block? No, no, no we were thinking you use what you had AND add another thin washer.  This would give you more distance at the bottom of the block to send the threads into and could get your spec torque setting of 66\but my question is why do they make these head bolts then if they wont even work?Do you have some poor quality steel or what?  This sounds funky to me.  Pictures of bolts or threaded holes chewed up might help\ it just doesn't make any sense to me.. am i using the wrong head bolts? on another block the head bolts are not the 12mm they are the hex ones Yep 10 mm hex heads are the 11 mm diameter and won't work for you so stop right there\what if i just swapped those out and then try those and just see? i know you cant reuse head bolts but it might be at least worth the test? idk But you do now, can't be done.