IP Pulley position

[Jvan_wert]

Hi All,
      I just picked up an '81 Rabbit 1.6 NA and the head was already off. I have everthing figure out and have timing tools on the way. How do figure out the correct position of the IP pulley, it's the old two hole type.

[8v-of-fury]

The key way for the main shaft of the pump should be in the 9-10 o'clock vicinity I believe. Hard to picture from memory.

[Jvan_wert]

That sounds like that sould get me in the ball park. Thanks

[fatmobile]

You know there is a notch on the edge of the sprocket that indicates TDC on cylinder 1? Right?

[ORCoaster]

If you turn the IP pulley over to the point where you can insert the keeper pin or a socket like most of us do you should see a small indent mark on the top edge of the pulley between the belt and the bracket the IP bolts to.  If not turn the pulley to the next place the hole lines up.  Is it there?  Now the keyway which may or may not be visible unless you back the nut on the front shaft off a bit should be in the position noted prior.

IP pulley is one third of the process.  Also engine needs to be on TDC, that plug is behind the engine at the joint of the bell housing/transmission.  The other item you need to align is the cam itself.  The two lobes on the #1 cylinder, one closest to the pulley need to be pointed up and there is a slot at the back of the cam where you slide another keeper.  You make it sound like these keeper are coming. 

IF this is all old news sorry just want you to know beforehand as many here have noted failure in the past. 

[Jvan_wert]

All right, on all counts; found the notch under the all the grease and with the notch straight up the key way is at the 10 o'clock position. I'm new to Ip's but not new to diesels or engines for that matter. I used to work on 53, 71 and 92 series Detroits before they put me behind a desk. I don't have a Bently but do have a Clymers that was NOS till I pulled it out of the celophane. Well not me really I couldn't do it so I let my son unrap it. Thanks all for the input. More questions soon to follow.

[ORCoaster]

Can you edit your profile to show us your location?  Those of us in the local areas like to know who might surround us.  Thanks.

[bajacalal]

If you could set up an old DD you shouldn't have trouble with these engines. I miss those things. They made awesome amounts of smoke and noise.

I think once you get everything it should all make more sense to you, how it's supposed to work. Remember these are 4 stroke. 

IMO the hardest part of the timing belt procedure on these is the crankshaft. It does not want to stay at TDC, it moves on you and a tiny difference makes a big difference, if you know what I mean. When you install the belt, you have to kind of anticipate how the crank is going to move when you put tension on the belt. But once you get the hang of it, you can make an easy job of it.

I did not know Clymers made a manual, the last time I saw a Clymers manual, it was for boats. I didn't think they made anything else. Anyway, the "Bentley" manuals are the official VW service manuals. They aren't totally necessary, but they do cover most everything on the car. A lot of the things on a VW are just... very different from how Detroit built things.

[Jvan_wert]

Location updated. Ifn you aint got a Benlty a Clymers is the next best thing.

[ORCoaster]

Thanks,  So from the show me state.  I guess we will just have to tell ya from here.

[damac]

the key on timing belt is to have cam pulley off and feed onto belt last, then feed onto taper and hand snug bolt

crank wont move then and shouldnt when you tension, you are just taking out slack.  make sure the ip lock pin isnt in at that point

[Jvan_wert]

Thanks,  So from the show me state.  I guess we will just have to tell ya from here.

Nope just here for the job. origianlly from PA

[Jvan_wert]

Another question. My engine code is CR 605 345. I know it's a 1.6 but other than than that what am I dealing with?