TDI powered Toyota compound turbo Build

[billybobf]

love it, I do wonder how the stock toyota driveshaft bolts would hold up in the crankshaft, they are the high grade bolts, but they only use a 14mm bolt head to hold them down

[410]

love it, I do wonder how the stock toyota driveshaft bolts would hold up in the crankshaft, they are the high grade bolts, but they only use a 14mm bolt head to hold them down

Thanks.  The driveshaft bolts would work if they were long enough.  I'm sure the 10.9 bolts will be fine.  I think they are equivalent to grade 8.  The acme kit also uses 10.9 bolts but this truck needed longer ones because of the 5/8" crank spacer.  I'm sure I'll find some 12.9 bolts at some point and if the engine or transmission were to come out I'd change them out. 

[billybobf]

so, being that youve built two of these things, I am really looking to see a diesel swapped 3rd gen toyota swapped with TARO badges. just think a factory vw front grill for your toyota pickup, and some cool taro badges, I would love to find a complete set, but currently I am running a 1st gen 4runner

[danster]

Project looks good.
Have you looked at the flywheel to crank bolts from the VW engines that use the dual mass flywheel type? I am sure they are longer. Think I have some here and will measure them up for future reference.

[billybobf]

I think his thing is that they probably need to be over an inch longer then the stock bolts

[danster]

I think his thing is that they probably need to be over an inch longer then the stock bolts

Yep, that is what I thought he meant.
Stock 020 clutch pressure plate to crank have 19mm thread length.
I just nipped out to the shed to check the dual mass flywheel to crankshaft bolts from a Audi A4 1.8 20v non turbo engine and they have 43mm thread length. So they are 24mm longer than stock. They still have a 17mm hex head, but also incorporate a bi-hex internal drive like the cylinder head bolts use.

[billybobf]

Sweet factory Vw

[billybobf]

Arise ye dead post.... Google brought us back together. Was it fate? Good luck? Bad luck?
Anyways, putting a 1z (ok it's the newer ahu? Alh? Has a water pump belt)

Anyways 1.9tdi ve rover 300tdi  going into a samurai with toyota dual cases and axles. Trying to figure out what turbo to run

[410]

Depends what you want to do with it.  The k03 or T2 turbos would be good for rock crawling since they make boost almost instantly.  I had the k14 on my first toyota and it was a little laggy but not too bad.  If you want to make a lot of horsepower while keeping the turbo lag to a minimum a vnt is the answer imo.  Once I made the move to the vnt turbos I haven't looked back.  The gt1749va from a b5.5 passat works extremely well on a little truck like this.  It was a huge upgrade compared to the k14 in almost every way.  Using a simple wastegate with the ability to adjust the stops on each end of the lever works okay for controlling a vnt and it keeps things pretty simple.  My favorite turbo is the gtb1756vk if money isn't an issue.

Some guys are now running a small holset turbo with great results but I don't have any personal experience with them.  If I was to do another compound turbo build I would go a little bigger on each turbo and run some crazy boost.  Although if you have the room, the compound setup we built for the second toyota would be ideal for offroading.  The truck made about 5 psi of boost with no load at 2500 rpm.  Zero lag.  We set the boost at 26 psi but could have easily ran into the mid 30's.

[410]

Since this thread has been brought back from the dead, I should give a little update.  We used a ceramic puck disc with a 1200lb pressure plate from Marlin.  The clutch hold well but the engagement sucks the big one.  The clutch for a newer tacoma with the 3.4 v6 will work on the flywheel from a 22ret but requires some machining.

A Webasto diesel engine heater was installed soon after building the truck and made the truck amazing for the winter.  The truck was used up north for work in the middle of winter and never missed a beat.  -40 weather was no problem with the engine heater.  Never had to be plugged in.

Other issues we ran into after years of use is a crack in the exhaust pipe between the 2 turbos. the homemade expansion joint didn't quite work like it was supposed to.  Something a little more flexible is required.  Aside from that the truck is still running strong today. 

[billybobf]

I'm glad i ran back into this. I dont need major power. Reliability and economy are more important. Currently I have a gt15 and a rebuild kit for it but I can't get the exhuast side apart. Would love simple and reliable more than powerful. Should be easy to hit twice the hp, 3x the torque as a stock samurai and less than 30% more weight. I also have the manifold and oil line for the gt15 (unless they are one time use on oil parts?)
Anyone have a gt15 that needs a rebuild? Cheaper is better!
I plan on putting thousands of back woods miles on this thing. Need it to be reliable.
Went arp bolts because I needed bolts and hate stretch bolts.
Only thing with laggy vs top end, will all the gear ratios I can hit 4000rpm at 2.1 mph
But top end will hold me through a long pull without needing to downshift.
Stock clutch for now so gotta be nice to it.

[Smithlawncare677]

what electric fan did you run? and what kind of lift pump?

[410]

It's a Walbro fuel pump but I can't remember the part number.  Maybe FRA-1?  The Rad fan is from a Ford thunderbird late 90's early 2000.  The fan was pretty cheap and moves a ton of air. 

[4wheeler]

Great work.
How's it running?

[410]

Thanks!  Truck is still running strong.  It's still in town but has a new owner.