-
TD LDA onto NA Pump?
by
turbosyncrobus
on 10 Mar, 2012 14:16
-
first off, I have 4 pumps all of which need to be rebuilt, 3 of which are from N/A motors, and one from a TD that I just picked up, here's the problem. The TD pump shaft threads are stripped to the point where there are only 2 full turns left to hold the sprocket on, what should I do? Should I use the shaft from one of the other pumps? Correct me if I am wrong but I can just put the TD cover with the LDA onto one of the other pumps after I rebuild it right? As for pumps, here are the numbers of the pumps that I have, is any one pump better than the other?
TD Pump
0 460 494 182
R 223 BT 4007
068 130 081 F
0 460 494 210
R 270 BS 4017
068 130 081G
0 460 494 077
R 66-8
068 130 107 AG
0 460 494 005
4/9F 2500 R16-2
068 130 107 A
I would really appreciate any feedback you can give, I have an 81 Caddy that I just rebuilt a TD Longblock to drop in, and it has taken forever to find a TD pump, now I just need to do the rebuild on whichever pump I go with.
Thanks
Patrick
-
#1
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 10 Mar, 2012 14:44
-
you gotta modify a n/a pump to make the LDA even work properly.. there is a limiter pin in the pump that needs to be removed, before the LDA can be fitted, or taken advantage of..
-
#2
by
turbosyncrobus
on 10 Mar, 2012 18:02
-
any links to information about removing the Limiter Pin Would be helpful, but I guess since I will be rebuilding one of these, I just need to know what to remove. I just mostly disassembled the TD pump...until I got to the Torx screws that hold the plate covering the Vane assembly...and of course one of the screws wouldn't budge which lead to a stripped out Torx head on one, this pump was NASTY on the inside.
-
#3
by
damac
on 10 Mar, 2012 23:35
-
How the heck do you strip those threads to begin with?
Also I don't think it would be a good idea to blindly take one shaft out from its mated bushings and throw into another pump? Some tolerance isn't going to match up I assume?
And I did one of those turbo top swaps months ago and it was worse than grinding a pin off for me. I had to yank the pump apart further because the governor arm that goes through the lid was all one piece, not like my turbo pumps where you pull the lid off and turn a piece and it lifts out of that slot.
Then I think I read that you want certain parts as a mated set so I took the whole distribution end along with it.
Not really a big deal in the end because I wanted to reseal everything.
Oh I also had to start from scratch as far as the fuel screw went with the different lids because it just didn't work when I first went to start the car up with the lock collar attached.
Pop the lid off your pump and take a pic.
-
#4
by
turbosyncrobus
on 11 Mar, 2012 10:36
-
Well, I'll tell you how I managed to strip a screw, as I said, the pump was NASTY inside but I cleaned it out good and managed to get one screw to loosen...the other was in there so tight that it stripped...trust me I try to be very careful, especially in tight places like that where there is limited access for repair, didn't matter in the end though. I'm confident that I'll be able to get the stripped one out though! Ok, so I am left with a TD pump that has a shaft that had stripped threads...I need to address that somehow since I really don't believe that there is enough left to securely hold the sprocket on an operating engine. Provided that I can get the stripped Torx screw out, Should I take the shaft from one of my other pumps and use it in the TD housing, or should I take the guts from my TD pump and put it in one of the NA housings? Either way, my TD pump needs a new shaft, so a modification of some sort is in order.
-
#5
by
damac
on 11 Mar, 2012 22:02
-
Assuming you have the tools and can mark all pieces that need to be marked, and that your pumps work?
I would take the na lower body that has the tightest mainshaft. I had an old pump that was so worn in an egg shape that once off the car and i had some guts removed you could wiggle it side to side.
I now have a nice pump that started fresh and I couldn't detect this wear in the mainshaft.
Of course break down the new pump completely and clean things and get the proper reseal kit so you have the mainshaft seal and the bits for the turbo top.
Take the distribution end with all its pieces and swap those to the na body.
And like I mentioned you will need the governor arm that mates to your turbo top. You are going to have to break your pumps down anyway so I would just take the rest of that assembly the governor arm rides in from your turbo pump and transplant that to.
Then that just leaves you to get rid of a pin in the na lower body. I myself just grinded it smooth with the wall and all has been ok. Post a picture of the na body you want to use from the top down with the top removed and can show you if its not obvious.
-
#6
by
vanbcguy
on 12 Mar, 2012 18:53
-
If you've got 4 pumps, you might be able to swing a deal with a pump rebuilder to take the batch as cores and get yourself a free rebuild. Just some food for thought.
-
#7
by
turbosyncrobus
on 13 Mar, 2012 19:19
-
That would be nice, but I guess I'll wait until I can get enough pumps to trade for a Giles pump...that is about the only one that I'd like. Besides, I'm just trying to finish up the Caddy TD conversion so that I can sell it, I have another TD motor that I'm going to rebuild/build-up for my Weekender Syncro. Currently my Westy has a Turbo PG (Corrado) motor and it goes REALLY fast, and gets HORRIBLE fuel mileage so I need to start driving on my own homebrew fuel since Washington/WH aren't going to help fix our economy/energy costs anytime soon.
-
#8
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 14 Mar, 2012 18:34
-
Currently my Westy has a Turbo PG (Corrado) motor and it goes REALLY fast, and gets HORRIBLE fuel mileage
WAY COOL!!!
pics or it never happened! theres a RIDES thread in the GENERAL section, should post up some pics of that baby!
-
#9
by
turbosyncrobus
on 15 Mar, 2012 21:58
-
Oh She Lives. I will try to get some pics posted, but you can see some in one of my posts on the VW Vortex search username G60Syncrobus. Back then it wasn't turbo but the G60 supercharger that it came from the factory with, but after 3 very expensive Blowers I converted to turbo...from a BMW TD. When I get some of my other project cars done and sold, I am going to rebuild the Syncro gearbox with Diesel Gears in prep for the Pumped up TD conversion...some day.