what TD pump is this? proably an German Eco. Where is the pop-off valve?

[RabbitJockey]

It has to do with how much of an angle the rod is placed at during rotation. A longer rod is placed at a lesser angle so it is less likely to bend or be stressed. A shorter rod is placed at sharper angles and is more likely to bend but it gives a mechanical advantage producing more torque. Rod length also effects the speed of the piston at different parts of the stroke. It's a bunch of craziness generally tho shorter rods are better for low end power longer rods are better for high rpm power

i always thought short rods were good for turning a bazillion RPMS, like a honda..

and long rods were for torque, like in a diesel..

the length of the stroke has that effect, a longer stroke makes more torque, shorter is better for high rpm.  but the stoke is only determined by the throw of the crank not the length of the rod.  but in general  assuming the pistons are the same an engine with a longer stroke will have a shorter rod.

[levi20AE]

OK, so the consensus is that the pump is probably some sort of German version of an Eco diesel.

My next question is, where is the pop-off valve to limit max boost?  my old 1.6TD manifold had a black plastic valve that looked like a PVC valve that suposedly limited the max boost by letting the excess back into the intake prior to the compressor. The manifold on this AAZ motor does not have one? is this normal?  On my old motor i took off the plastic valve and made an aluminum block-off plate cause i never made enough boost to open the valve anyways (NA pump).  Is it because it is an Eco motor they dont anticipate the engine making enough boost to require a control valve? 

Also this motor has an EGR setup that i plan to get rid of by using the neck for the intake manifold off of the 1.6TD setup and a block-off plate on the exhaust manifold.  Does this sound right or logical?  Also since i have to drill a hole in the mani for the EGT probe, can i mount it in the EGR block off plate? will there be a large difference in exhaust gas temperatures in the orphaned EGR port?

[theman53]

best spot to get an average EGT is before the turbo where all the cylinders come together. The EGR port isn't the best.

The "pop off" you are looking for was eliminated by VW. IIRC it was called an overboost protection valve. Since the turbos are internally wastegated they don't need it. VW being VW had them incase of wastegate failure. To add boost you would have to add a manual controller or *not recommended* block the wastegate off. If you did that and still had the overboost thing, that is when the overboost thing would work.

[rodpaslow]

I've tried the egr port just in-case you're thinking about using it.  It will show no higher than about 450 to 500° when stepping on it hard, when actually whats coming out of the cylinders ahead of the turbo in the flow of exhaust is more like 1200° or so!

[levi20AE]

I ended up tapping the longest runner.

I finished the AAZ swap this week and got it fired up. It started up immediately but was smoked blue/gray smoke and had a really rough idle like it was a tooth off. I pulled the valve cover and rechecked the timing at the cam, pump, and flywheel and everything was spot on still.  I searched to see if there was a difference between the German AAZ flywheel and my original 1.6 NA flywheel.  I had to swap the 1.6 flywheel and clutch to the AAZ motor to mate to the FN tranny. Are the timing markings on AAZ and 1.6 NA flywheels different?

[rallydiesel]

I've tried the egr port just in-case you're thinking about using it.  It will show no higher than about 450 to 500° when stepping on it hard, when actually whats coming out of the cylinders ahead of the turbo in the flow of exhaust is more like 1200° or so!

Wow! Good to know! 

[R.O.R-2.0]

the flow in the EGT port is stagnant, and the EGT probe neds the gasses to be moving around it very quickly to get a good accurate reading..

the only way to get a GOOD reading from the EGR port, is to use a very long, curved EGT probe..

[commuter boy]

It's an "umwelt" pump, we had a few AAZ's in Canada with that setup for about a 6 month period.  It's neutered with no LDA to keep emissions down.

I had Giles modify mine to a standard 1.9 TD pump spec when he rebuilt it, but it cost a fair bit more than a standard performance build.

You're better off getting a core pump off of another AAZ.

[levi20AE]

thanks. I figured out the reason the timing felt so off. On my old 1.6 i never pulled the cold start lever unless it was really cold. on this motor it has to pulled out on every start up until its warm or it idles rough and lots of light grey smoke.  I took it to a dyno day at a local shop for its maiden voyage and with a little extra fuel it made 77hp and 142 ft-lbs on a mustang dyno.  Then it proceeded to roast my new stock clutch on the way home driving like an @$$hole.  I couldnt be happier coming from a 1.6NA with a turbo bolted onto the back of it.

The EGTs read really high on this turbo compared to the K24 on the 1.6 would there be an issue swapping to the larger turbo with this pump?

Also what is the proper proceedure for hooking up the cold start valve at the back of the pump.  This pump has alot more available motion (lever can pull out much further from the dash).  How do you know what is the proper postion?

[R.O.R-2.0]

thanks. I figured out the reason the timing felt so off. On my old 1.6 i never pulled the cold start lever unless it was really cold. on this motor it has to pulled out on every start up until its warm or it idles rough and lots of light grey smoke.  I took it to a dyno day at a local shop for its maiden voyage and with a little extra fuel it made 77hp and 142 ft-lbs on a mustang dyno.  Then it proceeded to roast my new stock clutch on the way home driving like an @$$hole.  I couldnt be happier coming from a 1.6NA with a turbo bolted onto the back of it.

The EGTs read really high on this turbo compared to the K24 on the 1.6 would there be an issue swapping to the larger turbo with this pump?

Also what is the proper proceedure for hooking up the cold start valve at the back of the pump.  This pump has alot more available motion (lever can pull out much further from the dash).  How do you know what is the proper postion?

i would advance timing or atleast check it before you decide you need a new turbo..

retarded timing will make things REALLY HOT..