Tach adjust and Fuel sender issue..

[steevz]

Alright, so my tach is about 400-500 lower then actual RPM. How do you adjust the tach on a CE2 diesel cluster?

Also, since my swap my fuel gauge was working on and off.. Off for most part. Now it's not working at all. Should there be voltage at the fuel sender plug with the key on? All the wiring seems to be intact.. but no signal.

[fatmobile]

There's a pot on the circuit board.
 Little thing with a wheel on it.
 
 Damn hard to adjust because you can't change it with the cluster in.
 Gotta pull it out and pull it apart.
 Now I remember; on my '91 I drilled a hole in the front of the cluster so I could use a screw driver to adjust with it installed.

 On my Rabbit gti cluster, I desoldered the pot and extended it outside the cluster.

[Baron VonZeppelin]

Put the gas cluster back in and see how the fuel gauge works with it.
Might just be the gauge itself.

[steevz]

There's a pot on the circuit board.
 Little thing with a wheel on it.
 
 Damn hard to adjust because you can't change it with the cluster in.
 Gotta pull it out and pull it apart.
 Now I remember; on my '91 I drilled a hole in the front of the cluster so I could use a screw driver to adjust with it installed.

 On my Rabbit gti cluster, I desoldered the pot and extended it outside the cluster.

Thank you. Will give that a shot.

Put the gas cluster back in and see how the fuel gauge works with it.
Might just be the gauge itself.

Good idea, I guess if it is faulty.. it can be swapped.. Now that I think about it the blue film board probably isn't making a good connection back there..

[steevz]

One other thing.. I make my own glow plug circuit and it works fine..

Pull button switch with a 150a starter solenoid (cheapest one where I went). It's not fused.. and I'm guessing the fuse was there for a reason.. What rating of inline fuse should I place where?

[ORCoaster]

Pull switch?  so it is on all the time till you push it in?  How often do people leave their lights on with a switch that works like that?  I would have gone with a push down equals connection time.  That way it is off not on when my hand is on the wheel or shifter.

Total amps is like ever changing, as they warm they use less, but I thought a 40 ampere one was good enough.  Goes in line between plugs and solenoid.  If you have individual lines to plugs use a 10-15 amp fuse on each. 

Are you using your glow plug relay to power the solenoid?  That already has a fuse on it but only protects the load of the solenoid it self.  Not the load of the glow plugs. 

I use fuses like emergency switches, between the load and the voltage coming from the battery.  If something goes ya ya the fuse goes pop. 

[steevz]

lol, I ment push. *facepalm

Push button momentary switch.

There are no fuses or relays in my setup atm.

The setup goes..

Battery to solenoid
Solenoid to:
-Switch
-Ground
-Plugs

So, I'm thinking an emergency fuse would be best? In line fuse between the battery and solenoid?

Update: Fuel sender issue IS in the cluster. Plugged in the gasser cluster and it fired right up. Will swap them out.

[ORCoaster]

Do what is easiest, between bat and solenoid or after solenoid between glowplugs.  Bigger wire from the battery might cost more for one of those fuse blocks that I see on audio systems.  They take big fat wires and have 40 and 80 amp fuses.

Another reason I went to a distribution block was to use standard 10-15 amp auto fuses.  One per gp.

[Baron VonZeppelin]

Good find on the gauge problem.
Thats exactly how my last inop fuel gauge worked out.
You can also test them with an ohm meter on the poles from backside of cluster. Temp and Fuel both give about same ohm reading when they are good units. As a benchmark.

I used a 50 amp self-reset circuit breaker between switch and Gplugs on the last manual system i did. It was about 5-6 bucks at AutoZone.

The tach reading "might" be due to a different size alt pulley than what is was already calibrated for.