AAZ Oil pump - Vanagon - bow-tie/Diamond - exactly what engine do I have?

[Gizmoman]

OK, I've searched, found, and read a lot about the oil/vacuum pump worn tang and bow-tie slot issue.
So far all I read is "it's normal". I can't put this back in like this.

My tang is severely worn - now diamond shaped with sharp tips and the slot on the vacuum pump is seriously "bow-tied" - like bozo the clown.

I'm gong to be looking at well over 2K in parts by the time I'm ready to put this motor back in and this pump has got to be changed.

I think I found a new pump for about 75 bucks but it doesn't quite look the same as the one I have (only two bolts hold the suction tube to the bottom of the pump on the new one) mine has the suction tube integral to the end cap and looks longer than the one on the web site.

As I don't know what model car, or year this engine came from, it would help if someone here can make some sense of the numbers from the block (if it's possible). There is 1.9 TD cast into one side. There are the following numbers stamped on the smooth surface on the RH side of the block (facing pulley end between cyls 3 & 4) they are: 370 015. 80HBH is cast on the right below cylinder #1. 140 4 is cast to the right of cyl 4.

OK, The AAZ is listed as a Passat engine, Canada between 91 & 98 http://www.autoshoppingcenter.com/Volkswagen/vw_enginescode.html

There is a long number cast at the lower side of the block but I can't make them out very well.

I realize that this motor has had some "refinements" done for sure as it has a 1.6 IP and possibly a 1.6 oil/vacuum pump. As it is a Vanagon retro-fit there may be other bits that are odd but I hope knowing basically what it came out of will help me find parts easier.
Most sites want you to begin your search with a model and a year so I start guessing.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

[libbydiesel]

The oil pump needs to be the 1.6TD oil pump.  Do NOT get the AAZ pump as it has the wrong oil pickup tube.  The diesel vanagon one has the correct 36mm gears and has the correct oil pressure control valve.  The part # is 068115105BP.  Best price I've found lately was on eBay.  I got one listed as a Meyle and was very pleased when it arrived and was actually Febi instead.

[libbydiesel]

Also, to fully rebuild one of these I figure about $1000 in parts and machine work.  I guess you also got a new head, tho, so $2,000 is about right.  Don't forget that most of the internal engine fasteners are single use which adds to the bill. 

[Gizmoman]

Thanks much.
I'm with you on the bolts - just about all of them - and yes, the head is new. Mine wasn't that bad but after all I read about the loose pre-cups (which mine had), machine shop issues and so-on, I didn't want to take chances.

Having the part number really helps - Jim Ellis has it for a whopping $235 (most all his parts are high but my guess is they are OEM) - and Proth for 35 (no thanks).
I'll keep hunting - for sure on e-bay - $137 so far.
What do I do about the bow-tie vacuum pump slot. If I could get it apart, I'd weld it up and re-slit in in the mill but I bet the gear is heat shrunk? Too bad VW didn't harden at least the slot.

E-bay - 100 bucks - done.
Now, for that vacuum pump . . .
Jim Ellis has one for 325 bucks - now I know I can get mine apart and weld that dam slot up 

[libbydiesel]

I bet even if already seriously worn, your vac pump gear will still go another 500,000 miles before the oil pump spins free.  Here you go if you have an extra $180.

[Gizmoman]

Thanks, I just found the exact same listing.
The pump shaft is really bad but I 'spoze the slot can go quite a bit more That's just it though - you set out to make it like new (or better) and start making compromises cause it starts getting really spendy.

Sure wish I could figure out a way to get it apart. It would be easy to weld up and mill the slot but I believe there's an oil hole in it as well.

Thanks for the link, I'm starting to get the hang of this parts searching thing.

Anyone have an idea what the block numbers (at start of post) mean?

[libbydiesel]

Yes, the gear has an oil hole.  Without it, the pump will not work at all.

[Gizmoman]

I got one listed as a Meyle and was very pleased when it arrived and was actually Febi instead.

My new pump arrived - didn't luck out - it's a Meyle. Should I be concerned?

I stuck the pump and Vacuum pump in the block and the tang only goes into the slot about 1/2 way. No wonder it wears out so quickly. The old worn pump tang was the same (as is shown by the wear pattern). I'm tempted to take the oil pump apart and mill about .10" off the mating surface to make it go into the slot farther. Problem is, it would wear quickly till it "matched" the bow-tie.
There may be a reason VW wanted that space at the end of the tank though - the holes don't really line up.
I spoze I should get a new seal that goes inside the vacuum pump.

[libbydiesel]

Meyle will be fine.

[Gizmoman]

Thanks,
My IP and injectors will be leaving for Giles tomorrow - not sure if I should laugh or cry.
I'm surpassing the 2K range rather quickly.

Regarding the K14 turbo drain - I found a 16mm banjo fitting with a #6 male that will allow me to clock the turbo perfectly at 6:00.
I'll get some photos posted as soon as I get it mocked up. I ordered a K14 rebuild kit from Dieselicious (another 100 bucks). My turbo was OK but at this point, everything has to be taken apart and inspected. Apparently, the kit brings improved bearings and seal ring.

I'm also working up a SolidWorks model to possibly inter-cool the intake using two Laminova cores
http://97.74.32.155/files/intercool.pdf I found some on e-bay fro 50 bucks each - about as long as the head is. The plan is to fab an aluminum box for the cores and weld it to the intake manifold after I mill it in half.

I've done lots of searching and can't find a good water-to-air intercooler that doesn't require a lot of space, pipes, silicone fittings and clamps - all just so I can blow cool air into a hot intake manifold sandwiched between the head and turbo.

I figure cooling the air the instant it enters the head may be of benefit.

[libbydiesel]

Regarding the K14 turbo drain - I found a 16mm banjo fitting with a #6 male that will allow me to clock the turbo perfectly at 6:00.

Before you proclaim success, you will want to measure the depth of the banjo fitting plus the sealing washers plus the width of the head of the bolt and then compare to the distance between the threaded boss in the center section and the wastegate when the boss is pointing directly at it. 

[Gizmoman]

I know, it's very tight but it's worth a shot.

[libbydiesel]

I've considered it and it can be done, but the banjo fitting I have would need to be milled on both sides and the bolt head milled down significantly.