Bad lifters can cause misfires, particularly at increased rpm, IMO.
If they are going to be replaced, I'd do that first and see if the misfire resolves. If it does not resolve, no big loss and one less job to finish.
i disassambled and checked the fuel pump for faults, everything is just the way i left it there 1 year ago
only lifters are left to be excluded. interesting thing is that bucking gets worse when oil pressure drops after heating up the oil and lifters start to click....
now i'm running shell helis hx5 10-40 for alreadu 2500 kilometers, i do not have oil cooler but after calm city driving for about 7-8 kilometers pressure at idle drops down to 0.4 bar. at 3000 revs it gets up to 2.0 bars. after driving hard it gets even worse and lifter clacking gets louder 9so does the bucking, get more apparent)...
i think that i has something to do with the oil. when i had castrol edge 10-60, before the engine rebuild even after driving up hill the pressure used to stay minimum at 0.8 bar and there was no bucking at mid revs
If oil pressure is erratic, oil pump or IM-shaft bearings are suspect.
im shaft front bearing was replaced, and slightly used one was installed instead of the original that had some play. rear bearing was good, without scoring and signs of abnormal use.
i will change the oil soon (going to use motul 6100 10-40 or 15-50).
another problem that i have now is the oil light, it goes out only after 3.5 seconds after i start the engine in the morning. i think that it might be faulty drainback valve in the oil filter. i will install mahle oil fiter when i change the oil
Yeah, get a good filter on it and try a 15w-40 oil if you can. Sounds like could be your filter or something of a tired engine.
chamged the oil few days ago, eneos super plus diesel 20w-50. with new oil and filter oil presure light goes off 1.6 seconds after the car starts in the morning, and after 0.5 seconds when the engine is warm.
pressure is also quite right, 0.8 bar after calm city driving on idle, and 0.5 after heavy throttle driving in the city. also engine runs quieter due to high oil pressure. and lifter tick only lightly...
still after warming up engine starts to buck at ~2000. i have driven many cars with sever lifter problems, but still non of them had the symptons that my car has. despite the fact that i have checked everything in the pump i still think of getting a new one
it's really annoying during low rpm city driving
Audio track of engine, or video track of exhaust if anything is happening there @ and either side of 2000 rpm HOOD DOWN...
Audio track of engine, or video track of exhaust if anything is happening there @ and either side of 2000 rpm HOOD DOWN...
I will record the sound in near future and post the video here. I eill have to have a ride at night, when there is no traffic sounds and streets are free for experiments
I was not able to record the sound of an engine but i've got several news. yesterday i drove my friends peugeot 306 1.9td, that had 1 broken engine mount and when i took off the foot of the accelerator and than push it again it used to buck for some time, until engine has more power and after that it drove normally. my car behaves the same, way, when i accelerate hard there is no bucking at all, but under light throttle it twitches on mid revs... it might even be engine mounts, but still don't know
after peugeot test drive i measured boost pressure on my engine, inspite of the fact that my suzuki vitara, on 31' tires drove almost better than stock peugeot (running 0.9 bar above 2500rpm), it turned out that i almost do not have boost pressure... gauge hardly moved above 0.4 bar. it seems that i do not have any major boost leak, there is black smoke under acclereation (mixture is not lean), wastegate rod is extenden up to the limit.... but still i do not get boost
strange
wastegate rod is extenden up to the limit.... but still i do not get boost strange
Not sure if I understand clearly but the rod to the wastegate must hold it
shut until it reaches your set boost level.
Don't know about your set-up but most boost pots extend the rod to open the gate. It should be closed tightly at idle and under some considerable spring pressure.
mahle oil filter, made in austria. price 7.5$
