86 Jetta build

[Powjetta]

I went through 2 alternators from autozone and finally went to a different supplier and got a genuine Bosch unit that is still running.
Most heater door repairs I see involve new foam glued on.  I did the heavy aluminum tape but something has gone awry.

[bbob203]

the power vs non power racks are geared different.. you really should use the 85 non power rack.. that "kit" is a joke IMO due to knowing this...

don't knock it til you try it. I put one on and I love it.

[JBG3]

so some developments recently,  I dealt with the alternator problem.  FYI, if anyone is shopping for an alternator and reads this, id avoid the "OEM" brand reman.   It lasted barely 3500 miles, and what happened was a plate on the inside of the casting sheared off from what I assume were substandard or poorly installed screws (both broken or gone), and the plate was rattling around bouncing off the spinning rotor making a terrible racket.  On top of this, the bearing was also loose, so that was failing as well.  Just a piece of crap all around.

I installed a genuine Bosch reman, and its been fine, though I have to now rework my tensioner setup, as that depended on the large crappy non threaded hole in the "OEM" brand reman alternator, not the nice threaded hole on the Bosch unit.  I don't really want to drill out the hole on the bosch unit, seeing as how much nicer it is overall.

next I got my teardrop rims back the other day.  Unfortunately, the powdercoater messed up, and did them all gloss black instead of the light silver we discussed.  I don't know how he made this mistake, but since he cut me a super deal, I decided to just take them back anyway and see how I liked them. 

these are the rims pre refinishing-



and heres a close up of what he did.   Oops.



I put them on the car, and Im not too hot on how this looked.  Its militant, but not really the style i go for, plus the black completely eliminates the features of the rim I like-



So then as part of damage control I decided to paint a silver stripe, which I think looks way better and I kind of like, but I may repaint the whole rim long term. What do you all think?  Its not the look I was going to go for, but given the powdercoating mistake, takes advantage of the black

[rs899]

The stripe is much better IMO .  Is it possible to go mask into each "tear" and paint them?
Too bad there aren't 9 holes.  I would paint a red, yellow and blue and get a neat color wheel blur...

[Blocksmith]

The stripe is much better IMO .  Is it possible to go mask into each "tear" and paint them?

x2

Yeah, the silver band is a lot better. Myself I would just leave it at the band and not go after the tears, but that's just me.

[R.O.R-2.0]

the power vs non power racks are geared different.. you really should use the 85 non power rack.. that "kit" is a joke IMO due to knowing this...

don't knock it til you try it. I put one on and I love it.

using a power rack without power is a JOKE..

dont knock it till you try it.. the manual rack is 1000x easier to drive..

a power rack without power, is atleast 2x harder to turn at low speeds. and you feel LOTS of road vibrations thru the power rack without power, over the manual rack. i swear that a power rack gives you more feeling of the road when its used manually.. its smooth as silk when its got a hydro pump hooked up to it tho!

anyways, yes, the power steering rack loop is a JOKE.. thats taking the easy way out. VW sub frames are EASY to drop, it takes like an hour to replace a steering rack..

youve never driven a mk2 VW with manual steering have you? not surprising, being as how RARE it is to find a mk2 with full manual (not a deleted p/s pump, reservoir, and lines...

anyways, the manual rack is LEAPS AND BOUNDS better than a power rack being used as manual..

the power rack takes like 3.2 turns, from lock to lock..

the manual rack takes ~4 turns to go from lock to lock..

there IS AN ADVANTAGE (especially at low speeds and in parking lots) of having a manual steering rack.

myself personally, i like mk2s better with manual steering, over the power steering.. i prefer the way they drive, and the lack of clutter under the hood..

[JBG3]

using a power rack without power is a JOKE..

dont knock it till you try it.. the manual rack is 1000x easier to drive..

a power rack without power, is atleast 2x harder to turn at low speeds. and you feel LOTS of road vibrations thru the power rack without power, over the manual rack. i swear that a power rack gives you more feeling of the road when its used manually.. its smooth as silk when its got a hydro pump hooked up to it tho!

anyways, yes, the power steering rack loop is a JOKE.. thats taking the easy way out. VW sub frames are EASY to drop, it takes like an hour to replace a steering rack..

youve never driven a mk2 VW with manual steering have you? not surprising, being as how RARE it is to find a mk2 with full manual (not a deleted p/s pump, reservoir, and lines...

anyways, the manual rack is LEAPS AND BOUNDS better than a power rack being used as manual..

the power rack takes like 3.2 turns, from lock to lock..

the manual rack takes ~4 turns to go from lock to lock..

there IS AN ADVANTAGE (especially at low speeds and in parking lots) of having a manual steering rack.

myself personally, i like mk2s better with manual steering, over the power steering.. i prefer the way they drive, and the lack of clutter under the hood..

Provided its not a rusty car or truck.        Ive spent 5 hours removing things held on by 4 bolts when I used to work fleet service in upstate NY.  May be simple theoretically, but this car came out of central NY, so its got some corrosion, which it why I fired the little loop on there instead.  (have plans for that later)

The manual racks are pretty cheap too, I think long term ill get one.  Personally though, I haven't really had any problem with this rack currently in this car, apart from a tendency to sort of 'lock' at either end of travel.  Is this common with the bastardized power racks?

Ive had no problems turning it, but my GF can't park this car, so long term, in order for her to use it occasionally, ill switch to something she can use

[JBG3]

well, time for some serious rust repair.  week after next, im having the floors and rockers patched up, and the whole underside of the car sandblasted, and undercoated with some heavy stuff.  I decided to dump money saved on fuel for the last couple months directly into this car.

If I fix the rust now, it will potentially be very solid and in good shape for years and years, but if I let it go and just drive it, this car will rot away by next year.  Its right on that edge. 

I removed the 4 fender flares and found lots more rot, so decided to drop it off earlier than I expected to just get it taken care of. 

In preparation, i will be pulling the entire interior, maybe the fuel tank, and maybe the exhaust.  (this is so they can get up into those areas to sandblast with no problem.  Ill post some pics of what I found under the fender flares a little later, after this, those things arent going back on.  All they do is kill the fender. 

[R.O.R-2.0]

using a power rack without power is a JOKE..

dont knock it till you try it.. the manual rack is 1000x easier to drive..

a power rack without power, is atleast 2x harder to turn at low speeds. and you feel LOTS of road vibrations thru the power rack without power, over the manual rack. i swear that a power rack gives you more feeling of the road when its used manually.. its smooth as silk when its got a hydro pump hooked up to it tho!

anyways, yes, the power steering rack loop is a JOKE.. thats taking the easy way out. VW sub frames are EASY to drop, it takes like an hour to replace a steering rack..

youve never driven a mk2 VW with manual steering have you? not surprising, being as how RARE it is to find a mk2 with full manual (not a deleted p/s pump, reservoir, and lines...

anyways, the manual rack is LEAPS AND BOUNDS better than a power rack being used as manual..

the power rack takes like 3.2 turns, from lock to lock..

the manual rack takes ~4 turns to go from lock to lock..

there IS AN ADVANTAGE (especially at low speeds and in parking lots) of having a manual steering rack.

myself personally, i like mk2s better with manual steering, over the power steering.. i prefer the way they drive, and the lack of clutter under the hood..

Provided its not a rusty car or truck.        Ive spent 5 hours removing things held on by 4 bolts when I used to work fleet service in upstate NY.  May be simple theoretically, but this car came out of central NY, so its got some corrosion, which it why I fired the little loop on there instead.  (have plans for that later)

The manual racks are pretty cheap too, I think long term ill get one.  Personally though, I haven't really had any problem with this rack currently in this car, apart from a tendency to sort of 'lock' at either end of travel.  Is this common with the bastardized power racks?

Ive had no problems turning it, but my GF can't park this car, so long term, in order for her to use it occasionally, ill switch to something she can use

if it LOCKS at full turn (left and right) then its gonna start internally binding up. i believe tyler had a power rack do that to him also..

i believe its not going to get better..

if i were you, i would get the manual rack, u-joint, and boot and just convert it.. the effort involved to steer the bastard power rack is roughly 100% more than the effort it takes to turn the manual rack.. non-stock width tires makes this ALOT WORSE. if you are just running some 155/80/13 tires, then its probably not gonna make a bunch of difference, but stock size, or bigger tires makes it alot harder to steer..

power racks are not bad to drive, unless you wanna parallel park, turn around, back up, whatever.. they SUCK @$$ at low speeds..

the power rack is 20% faster than the manual rack.. 3.2 turns, vs 4 turns from lock to lock on the manual rack. even full on manual steering may be to much for your girlfriend.. it takes substantial effort to turn still.. my cousins girlfriend always says my car is hard to steer when you are going slow, or almost stopped.. its just a manual steering thing.

if it needs to be FRIENDLY to the girl friend, then just hook your power steering back up. its really not as much of a power robber as people think. myself personally, i was GOING to swap in a manual rack into my 92 Jetta, or else loop the lines.. then i actually hooked the power steering all the way up, so it functioned, and HOLY CRAP, the car drove SOO MUCH NICER..

one thing about a power rack with no power, is you FEEL EVERY SINGLE PEBBLE ON THE ROAD.. the power rack has TOO MUCH feedback for my tastes, without power to it..

your car would drive 100% easier, and SMOOTHER with the power steering hooked up. you wouldnt notice a mileage or power decrease either..

[JBG3]

I dont have the original engine, so no power steering pump and or parts.  This engine is out of a manual steering 85 and is as basic as they come.  I also want to keep it manual, after all, its my car.      I would like her to be able to drive it, but she will have a new car probably pretty soon, so I doubt that will happen that often in the near future.   

ive got the stock tires on, its not bad for highway, but you are right, there is some major feedback going on. 

That will probably be the next expenditure, after the rust work.  I also have some front shocks and springs to install soon. 

I am concerned about the internal binding potential issue, did his steering just lock in one position at one point? or did it just get harder and harder to do?  did he write a thread on it? 

[R.O.R-2.0]

I dont have the original engine, so no power steering pump and or parts.  This engine is out of a manual steering 85 and is as basic as they come.  I also want to keep it manual, after all, its my car.      I would like her to be able to drive it, but she will have a new car probably pretty soon, so I doubt that will happen that often in the near future.   

ive got the stock tires on, its not bad for highway, but you are right, there is some major feedback going on. 

That will probably be the next expenditure, after the rust work.  I also have some front shocks and springs to install soon. 

I am concerned about the internal binding potential issue, did his steering just lock in one position at one point? or did it just get harder and harder to do?  did he write a thread on it? 

i dont believe it locked completely going down the road, but it got bad enough that he swapped the rack before it got un-safe. i believe it was on his moms car? was your rack left with the lines disconnected, and open to the elements at all, or has it always had the looped lines since you removed the power steering? if it was exposed for any period of time, then thats why its locking up internally..

and uh, its REALLY NOT HARD to add power steering to a car. its got the rack, thats the hardest part to install.

either hook your rack up to power, or go full manual. you WILL NOT REGRET either solution, but i guarantee YOU WOULD LOVE driving that car with power steering, being that you have a substantial amount of time spent driving it.. it turns it into a night-and-day different driving car..

i still say you would like power better, cause i KNOW i liked power steering better, and i am a DIE HARD manual/mechanical everything freak..

the power steering is the ONLY THING i run on my cars that is not necessarily a requirement for operation..

it doesnt matter if the engine came from an 85 with no power steering, the block has the provisions, and you can use a gasser power steering pump, and 16v power steering pulleys.. it all lines up correct. i have an 81 Vanagon engine in my 92 Jetta, and i have power steering hooked up no problem.. bolted the gasser p/s pump to a modified gasser p/s bracket, bolted the 16v pulleys to the pump and engine, and then put the belt on. damn it works nice. doesnt rob any power either, surprisingly. it was WELL WORTH IT. and my original plan was to go with a full manual rack, being that i have a spare..

[JBG3]

i dont believe it locked completely going down the road, but it got bad enough that he swapped the rack before it got un-safe. i believe it was on his moms car? was your rack left with the lines disconnected, and open to the elements at all, or has it always had the looped lines since you removed the power steering? if it was exposed for any period of time, then thats why its locking up internally..

and uh, its REALLY NOT HARD to add power steering to a car. its got the rack, thats the hardest part to install.

either hook your rack up to power, or go full manual. you WILL NOT REGRET either solution, but i guarantee YOU WOULD LOVE driving that car with power steering, being that you have a substantial amount of time spent driving it.. it turns it into a night-and-day different driving car..

i still say you would like power better, cause i KNOW i liked power steering better, and i am a DIE HARD manual/mechanical everything freak..

the power steering is the ONLY THING i run on my cars that is not necessarily a requirement for operation..

it doesnt matter if the engine came from an 85 with no power steering, the block has the provisions, and you can use a gasser power steering pump, and 16v power steering pulleys.. it all lines up correct. i have an 81 Vanagon engine in my 92 Jetta, and i have power steering hooked up no problem.. bolted the gasser p/s pump to a modified gasser p/s bracket, bolted the 16v pulleys to the pump and engine, and then put the belt on. damn it works nice. doesnt rob any power either, surprisingly. it was WELL WORTH IT. and my original plan was to go with a full manual rack, being that i have a spare..

Who said it was hard?  I want to keep it manual for purposes of simplicity.  I like one belt driving the alternator/water pump and thats it.  A manual rack/bastardardized auto rack is maintenance free.  That is my goal with this car, unbreakable, low maintenance.  

As I said earlier, the steering has really been a non issue.  I might swap in a real manual rack because of the sticking issue being a concern, but not because of the steering itself, which I have not had a problem with.  

[R.O.R-2.0]

i dont believe it locked completely going down the road, but it got bad enough that he swapped the rack before it got un-safe. i believe it was on his moms car? was your rack left with the lines disconnected, and open to the elements at all, or has it always had the looped lines since you removed the power steering? if it was exposed for any period of time, then thats why its locking up internally..

and uh, its REALLY NOT HARD to add power steering to a car. its got the rack, thats the hardest part to install.

either hook your rack up to power, or go full manual. you WILL NOT REGRET either solution, but i guarantee YOU WOULD LOVE driving that car with power steering, being that you have a substantial amount of time spent driving it.. it turns it into a night-and-day different driving car..

i still say you would like power better, cause i KNOW i liked power steering better, and i am a DIE HARD manual/mechanical everything freak..

the power steering is the ONLY THING i run on my cars that is not necessarily a requirement for operation..

it doesnt matter if the engine came from an 85 with no power steering, the block has the provisions, and you can use a gasser power steering pump, and 16v power steering pulleys.. it all lines up correct. i have an 81 Vanagon engine in my 92 Jetta, and i have power steering hooked up no problem.. bolted the gasser p/s pump to a modified gasser p/s bracket, bolted the 16v pulleys to the pump and engine, and then put the belt on. damn it works nice. doesnt rob any power either, surprisingly. it was WELL WORTH IT. and my original plan was to go with a full manual rack, being that i have a spare..

Who said it was hard?  I want to keep it manual for purposes of simplicity.  I like one belt driving the alternator/water pump and thats it.  A manual rack/bastardardized auto rack is maintenance free.  That is my goal with this car, unbreakable, low maintenance.  

As I said earlier, the steering has really been a non issue.  I might swap in a real manual rack because of the sticking issue being a concern, but not because of the steering itself, which I have not had a problem with.  

you WILL NOT regret swapping in a manual rack..

another thing, power steering operates on ITS OWN belt, not off the alternator/water pump belt..

so, you get to keep the simplicity of your existing setup, all you need to do, is add the crank pulley for power steering, and hook everything up.. existing belts/routing do NOT change.. least on my setup they didnt. im running a mk1 rabbit accessory drive system, and its got mk2 power steering hooked up to it without issues, looks OEM.

[JBG3]

you WILL NOT regret swapping in a manual rack..

another thing, power steering operates on ITS OWN belt, not off the alternator/water pump belt..

so, you get to keep the simplicity of your existing setup, all you need to do, is add the crank pulley for power steering, and hook everything up.. existing belts/routing do NOT change.. least on my setup they didnt. im running a mk1 rabbit accessory drive system, and its got mk2 power steering hooked up to it without issues, looks OEM.

you misunderstand, I like having the ONE belt, not two accessory belts.  Thats what I meant.  I understand what it would take to install power steering, but if I could have no accessory belts, Id do it.   

Right now, the engine is as stripped down as it really can be and still run.  The steering otherwise is generally a non issue.  No doubt it will be better, but its fine now also. 

[JBG3]

so the jetta is down having patches welded to it! 

heres a few pics-

First, I stripped the entire interior to expose the rusted out floor pans, not as bad as I thought, worst is drivers pan-




Here is some of the rocker damage-





And the most interesting hole, right behind the fuel fill.  I dropped and removed the fuel tank so this could be repaired in the trunk.  Also this exposes the body metal to a full undercoating.  Whats happening is this place is sandblasting the bottom of the car, welding in patches for all the holes, and rubbercoating the whole underside. 



off it goes! Ill see it in maybe a couple weeks