Building AAZ motor; meet Harley - page 22 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #315 by Jetmugg on 29 May, 2014 10:59
• I am running one of the FrozenBoost intercoolers as well.  I actually drilled a "bleeder hole" in mine (very carefully), with a separate vent hose running back to the water reservoir (a Coleman type cooler) in order to give any trapped air a pathway to escape.
  
  Steve.
• #316 by CrazyAndy on 03 Jun, 2014 17:38
• I like that idea; might find a way to do that on the radiator if it doesn't cause a problem or if the air doesn't bleed out.
  
  I was able to get another afternoon to work on the Rabbit this weekend.  The biggest accomplishments are being completely done (exception of potential air bleed on radiator) with the water circuit on the air-to-water intercooler, and only one silicone bend away from completing the boost piping also.  It was nice to see that I wouldn't need to radically modify the radiator's height positioning to fit the boost piping; the only drawback was that the setup needed a new slim radiator fan.  Fortunately the side I bought the boost piping off of also sells fans, so that is another box ticked as well!  I wil need to figure out how to wire it's 2 wires into the 3-wire Mk1 rad fan plug, though.Only other big thing that day is that I tried swapping the original Mk1 reverse switch into the shift tower on the 02A transmission.  The lengths, thread size and pitch, and even switch actuator end were 100% the same, so that's one switch plug I won't have to splice in.  Next time it's going to be about mounting the new transmission-side clutch cable bracket I got in the mail, as well as the new alternator I had to get (used one was bad) with it's new clutched pulley. I also need to get a starter but that's easy; the downpipe still remains unmodified, and that's the biggest puzzle piece still out there.
  Anyone out there know of a good heat wrap to put on the pipes?
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• #317 by RabbitJockey on 03 Jun, 2014 18:36
• u can get a 2 wire fan switch, but the 3 wire is basically the same except i think its supposed to come on at 2 different temps, that or the extra wires just feeds hot straight to the fan when the ac is turned on.  but if u get a fan switch for a non ac car it should be 2 wire.
• #318 by theman53 on 03 Jun, 2014 21:35
• Good deal
  
  You should be able to leave off one of the wires like Rabbit Jockey said. Are you going to run the stock temp switch or am I thinking too hard?
• #319 by GEE-BEE on 04 Jun, 2014 08:10
• I have contacted a member here on the forum that has purchased a used callaway 1.6 a/c kit ( MK1 )
  
  I want to get the hardlines ( tubing ) and make from silicone 4 ply..
  
  The intercooler could be remade also, it below the battery and has a scoop..
  
  I have pics if intersted...
  
  [email protected]
  
  Where is your air inlet at on your build ?
  
  GB
• #320 by CrazyAndy on 04 Jun, 2014 15:41
• Quote from: GEE-BEE on 04 Jun, 2014 08:10

  I have contacted a member here on the forum that has purchased a used callaway 1.6 a/c kit ( MK1 )
  
  I want to get the hardlines ( tubing ) and make from silicone 4 ply..
  
  The intercooler could be remade also, it below the battery and has a scoop..
  
  I have pics if intersted...
  
  [email protected]
  
  Where is your air inlet at on your build ?
  
  GB
  

  
  
  The air filter was originally going to be a stock MK2 TD air box, but now I think I'll route it behind the engine on the outside of the rain tray to over the transmission where I'll use a universal air box.  From there I can run some accordion hose to the drivers fender well under the battery.  That way, I won't have to force another hose around the engine on the passenger side frame rail, and the engine will still get cooler, moderate-pressure air.
  
  As far as the callaway setup, go on and send the pics, but I don't really get what you're trying to say here; are you saying I should use that setup?  I'm very financially invested into this setup as of now, and to redesign now would cost me a parts value loss of almost $700, and I won't get that when reselling the setup parts IF I can resell them.  This build is starting to lean on my wallet hard, and it costs less right now to go forward than to step back.  Unless I am getting the wrong impression from your message, then please do set me right.
  
  I am going to run the stock temp switch (2-wire) since I'm still using the stock-style radiator.  I'm going to find which wire(s) need to be used on the fan and run them in the appropriate fashion; if one of the wires really does require a low-speed operation, a resistor is not hard to wire in.  I just need to find my MK1 Bentley . . . where did that thing get to?
• #321 by CrazyAndy on 12 Jun, 2014 17:54
• Here's some stuff I did last weekend:
  
  -Modify and mount my timing belt cover
  -Test fit the new bending reducer, and make plans to trim both it and the 90 degree turn it goes to
  -Realize that my fan plug was 2-wire all along, and plan to put new connectors on the wires for the fan spades
  -Mount up my crank and water pump pulleys, finding out on the way that I wouldn't have to space out the water pump
   pulley after all.
  -Test mount the new radiator hoses, and make plans for upper rad brackets.
  -Cut of the aftermarket trans mount's clutch cable bracket and test for the new clutch bracket which mounts on the bolt, closer to the
    actuator.
  
  That's all I got, really, since I forgot my big tools at my house.  Would have connected the drive shafts and set up the shift linkage also, but I couldn't properly without my tools.
  
  Also, I just got back from test mounting my modified downpipe, and realize now that it isn't going to work; the bend passes through were the drive shaft goes through, the shift mechanism hits the side, and the last bend even with modification can't pass under the steering rack since the flex section is too close.  I'm going to cut the flange off and have it done locally.  Sorry Lucas.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• #322 by GEE-BEE on 12 Jun, 2014 18:42
• Techtonics has 2.0 and 2.5 mk1 downpipes ready to go
  
  various turbos as I sent them various models for the 1.9
  
  I sent them my tubular exhaust manifold and GTB turbo for a custom downpipe as my turbo exit is on the passenger side
  
  I will have more room with this build as Iam using a o2a and cable shift...
  
  you need a 45 to 45 on your elbows with a joiner
  
  GB
• #323 by CrazyAndy on 13 Jun, 2014 20:13
• I guess so; the only thing that would be an issue then is if my exhaust having to be spaced 1/2" inch off the head would cause an issue, but probably not since that's not too much of a distance even in a turbo mk1.
• #324 by CrazyAndy on 29 Jun, 2014 20:28
• Okay, this Rabbit update is a conglomeration of the past 2 weekends of work from the past 3 weeks:
  
  Weekend one
  -Wrapped the boost pipes in heat-reflecting tape, and had end lips welded on the long pipe.
  -Got clamps for the radiator hoses.
  -Used some drilled straight iron for a radiator support strap; going to duplicate and mount on the other side as well.
  -Checked CRX cable with new mount bracket; cable still too short; ordered Eurowise modified cable.
  -Primed the engine oil pump to see which oil cooler line is the supply, then hooked up the lines to the cooler.  Primed the oil pump for 5 minutes to test for leaks (dang that's a thirsty setup; took a whole quart) and found some minute leaks at the 90 degree bends.  I'm going to pull the cooler out and get the bends brazed, which in hindsight I should have done in the first place.
  
  Weekend 2:
  -Mounted recently-delivered Eurowise clutch cable; just had to pull the mechanism in a bit to slide the cable on, but it fits great
  -Mounted new 02A starter with dealer-sourced, starter bolts, which luckily have threaded studs on their heads which make great engine ground cable mounting points.
  -Installed new battery ground cable(s).
  -Put car on stands, removed axles, greased inner CV joints, and installed axles on transmission along with paper inner CV flange gaskets.  Inner joints don't bind as far as I know with suspension compression.
  -Modified rear trans bracket to fit past shifter linkage, and found out that the design is junk; it's the wrong spacing and angle to the body mount plate.  I'm going to have to source a better-designed part.  These cheap mounts have turned out to be nothing but trouble.
  -Checked operation of clutch with axles now installed; great pedal feel, with engagement about 2/5ths up the sweep.
  
  I am SO glad these axles look like they're going to work, and the new clutch cable works the mechanism well.  Now it's getting intake parts, rear mount, shift linkage, and wiring.  Then, she'll start up.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• #325 by theman53 on 30 Jun, 2014 05:56
• Cannot wait to hear what it does
• #326 by Gizmoman on 30 Jun, 2014 06:49
• Carry on Mr. Very close.
• #327 by CRSMP5 on 30 Jun, 2014 07:28
• Too bad tt downpipe that ive seen in person hit floor behind rack... Good luck with that... Never buy tt junk.. And had no guilt cutting it to fix it right... Had to fix 2 of them...
  
  What axles u use??
• #328 by CrazyAndy on 30 Jun, 2014 19:18
• Past '86 Cabriolet; all the 100mm CV joint without the MK2 length.
• #329 by GEE-BEE on 02 Jul, 2014 21:27
• I think this will work for you, if not I will purchase it from you...''
  
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/390515779701?ssPageName=STRK:MEBOFFX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1427.l2649#ht_2545wt_983