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#210
by
libbydiesel
on 14 Aug, 2013 07:53
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Wait a second, this is Crazy Mike's thread, not Bob's.
I forgot about the hose/liquid method for finding TDC. Thanks for the reminder. You can stick the end of the tube into a cup of liquid and watch for when the bubbles stop and the liquid starts getting sucked into the hose.
Some of the early 1.9s used the same tensioner as the 1.6s. I believe the stud size is different. Upside to the 1.6 tensioner is that it is less expensive. Downside is it doesn't tell you how tight to make the belt. Regardless, when tensioning the belt, it is important that you do move all the slack to the tensioner area and that the pump is not locked and the cam sprocket is able to turn on the cam.
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#211
by
RabbitJockey
on 14 Aug, 2013 08:09
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i usually just let the valve cover on and i put the belt on where ever it falls, then i turn the engine over, if something hits i move the belt one tooth on the cam until nothing hits anymore. then for injection timing i remove the injection lines and turn over the engine and until the #1 port on the injection squirts pretty close to tdc on the fly wheel. been doing it that way for years. we don't need all these wanna be engine ears on here over thinking the timing process, its real easy. then to tension it i just put it on tight, u can tell when the slack is good and tight the engine will sound super charged, then u just back off the tensioner a hair until it don't sound that way, like i said i been doing this for years i know what i am doing.
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#212
by
CRSMP5
on 14 Aug, 2013 11:59
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bob as in sponge bob..
who else do you know that makes crabby paddy?
its all bout tricks... i never heard of the water method... but find no reason for it to not work..
depends on the stud size like libby said giz.. for what ever odd reason they went back to a smaller stud... they started with small stud.. upgraded to the big stud as people were breaking little studs back in the 70s.. then went back to little studs so they break again..
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#213
by
8v-of-fury
on 14 Aug, 2013 12:32
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i usually just let the valve cover on and i put the belt on where ever it falls, then i turn the engine over, if something hits i move the belt one tooth on the cam until nothing hits anymore. then for injection timing i remove the injection lines and turn over the engine and until the #1 port on the injection squirts pretty close to tdc on the fly wheel. been doing it that way for years. we don't need all these wanna be engine ears on here over thinking the timing process, its real easy. then to tension it i just put it on tight, u can tell when the slack is good and tight the engine will sound super charged, then u just back off the tensioner a hair until it don't sound that way, like i said i been doing this for years i know what i am doing.
If this worked I'd say congratualtions..
Chris lol, you're one to talk about wording thigs to be understood correctly.
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#214
by
RabbitJockey
on 14 Aug, 2013 12:40
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Lol@chris
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#215
by
CRSMP5
on 14 Aug, 2013 12:58
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<----- not a mod... why i do not want to be one.. on top of my political views really suck...
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#216
by
CrazyAndy
on 14 Aug, 2013 19:38
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It seems I have run into a snag. With my PD intake choice, coupled with my T3, the turbo compressor housing hits the intake manifold.
It's hard to see in the flash, but the compressor housing is butted up against the intake, whereas the turbo flange itself has about another 1/8-3/16 to be able to correctly sit on the exhaust flange. I think I may need a turbo spacer here.
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#217
by
8v-of-fury
on 14 Aug, 2013 19:44
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I think I may need a turbo spacer here.
***ty buzzzzzzzz
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#218
by
CRSMP5
on 14 Aug, 2013 19:46
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just send the manifold to 8v so customs can loose it...
yea.. you know.. you need to ask bbob abt his turbo/mani set up.. we knew that fit was tight... had to cut things off his pd manifold.. and your cold side way bigger...
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#219
by
CrazyAndy
on 14 Aug, 2013 19:54
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Actually it's the same on the outside, the difference is in the inducer size on the compressor. I already lined them up, and the stock housing would have done the same thing. I'll give bbob a PM, hopefully I can find a solution. I really wish VW hadn't gone with this weird flange right about now, or I'd have just messages saying 'had to order spacer'. I really hope this doesn't affect my DP either.
EDIT: Wait . . Lucas . . I've got it! Lucas, hit me up if you get the chance tomorrow. I wanna see if your local machinist that cut your flywheel adapter might be looking for work.
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#220
by
libbydiesel
on 14 Aug, 2013 20:27
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#221
by
theman53
on 15 Aug, 2013 05:34
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was just going to recommend what Libby just posted. You could thin that down to around 1/4" or leave it 1/2" and have some space.
Mine worked out as the custom intake tubes were slanted just enough so I didn't have an issue
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#222
by
RabbitJockey
on 15 Aug, 2013 06:06
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you don't think a grinder could solve this problem?
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#223
by
theman53
on 15 Aug, 2013 06:12
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you don't think a grinder could solve this problem?
Did that with the AAZ manifold but this being the PD I don't know. I only needed to take off an 1/8" of the aaz manifold. Also check to see if clocking it will help if you haven't already done that.
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#224
by
libbydiesel
on 15 Aug, 2013 06:50
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The site I linked also has 3/8 and stainless. $40 and 4 gaskets later it'd be done.