I've been driving my Rabbit GTI 1.6L that I installed a mk3 TDI turbo onto for a while now as a daily. I monitor my EGT's religiously but never really kept up with the boost. I did install a ***ty ass pressure gauge that went to 15psi and knew it spiked the gauge all the time.Well I finally got off my ass and installed a proper VDO boost gauge that goes to 30psi.For the record my 11mm 1.6 NA with no internal mods and a fiber gasket will spike to 24psi and hold at 20psi I let off the fuel once I hit 1200 degrees.These damn 1.6 motors are AWESOME.That is all,Jason
Near stock? Would be a complete waste of your time. Stock boost levels (10-12 psi) will be TOTALLY safe on the non-turbo engine.
Absolute guarantee. . There have been plenty of real time in the field proof that turboing an N/A with stock boost levels works, and is safe. Honestly I feel anything below 18 psi is safe on a stock motor, even an N/A block. Just so long as you keep the EGT's in check there is no issue. It is not the "boost" that hurts the motor, it is the heat associated with it.An N/A pump will run a turbo motor just fine, However it will not have the ability to limit fuel when there is no boost present. Meaning there will be a lot of smoke until the turbo begins to produce boost pressures, roughly 21-2300rpm's.
Quote from: 8v-of-fury on February 21, 2012, 11:22:42 pmAbsolute guarantee. . There have been plenty of real time in the field proof that turboing an N/A with stock boost levels works, and is safe. Honestly I feel anything below 18 psi is safe on a stock motor, even an N/A block. Just so long as you keep the EGT's in check there is no issue. It is not the "boost" that hurts the motor, it is the heat associated with it.An N/A pump will run a turbo motor just fine, However it will not have the ability to limit fuel when there is no boost present. Meaning there will be a lot of smoke until the turbo begins to produce boost pressures, roughly 21-2300rpm's. Yeah, my AAZ boost pin drives pretty much like that too. I would probably use a smaller turbo on the engine for more driveable boost.
vdubspeed, what fueling are you using? Is that just an N/A pump with the smoke screw turned in, or do you have an LDA from a turbo on there?
Quote from: JamesT on February 21, 2012, 11:18:46 pmvdubspeed, what fueling are you using? Is that just an N/A pump with the smoke screw turned in, or do you have an LDA from a turbo on there?I have VERY little smoke upon acceleration off boost and no smoke on boost.
What if you came across a good working non turbo engine and wanted to add a turbo, but were willing to crack the block open ahead of time?Is there anything you could to the lower end at that point to help with the turbo if sticking to near stock boost levels, or is it a waste of time and you should just run it as is?
Quote from: vdubspeed on February 22, 2012, 08:09:07 amQuote from: JamesT on February 21, 2012, 11:18:46 pmvdubspeed, what fueling are you using? Is that just an N/A pump with the smoke screw turned in, or do you have an LDA from a turbo on there?I have VERY little smoke upon acceleration off boost and no smoke on boost. So either your smart and don't flog the hell out of it before boost hits? However no smoke on boost leads me to believe you could do with a little more fuel
The accelerator lever part that attaches to the governor spring capsule has a short offset and limits the total pull of the accelerator lever. First step would be to jumper the accelerator lever to shaft orientation one spline so that the shaft goes clockwise and the lever goes anti-clockwise. Then readjust the max fuel and idle screws. That should give you a better idle setting and allow you to seriously increase the max fuel.
Jumping another spline relaxes the idle spring and allows it to be adjusted again. There is way more fueling adjustment in the max fuel screw than in the idle screw. When you run out of idle, jump a spline for more adjustment, then adjust the max fuel for more fuel. Give it a try. It works. If it doesn't do what you want you can always put it back.