it's alive but smokey - Troubleshooting - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• it's alive but smokey by zolorin on 10 Feb, 2012 17:29
• so I unplugged the breather, re adjusted the throttle plate (moved couple of teeth on the splined part).  so it is back alive and drives some what, but it produces smoke like a crop duster.  grey smoke all over the pedestrians.  anyway, how do I reduce the smoke???
  
  Still need to change oil pan gasket after the oil geyser
• #1 by ORCoaster on 10 Feb, 2012 17:32
• Time it or take it to the car wash and get the oil off the hot engine.  Grey smoke is oil burning or diesel not burning. 
• #2 by Baron VonZeppelin on 10 Feb, 2012 18:15
• Is there another thread that goes along with this one ?
  
  Just to drop some hints -
  
  There is about a 3 spline variance where it will still run.
  But only 1 spline where it will run/idle/accelerate its best.
  Make sure you have that spline.
  
  Overfueling produces Black smoke out the exhaust - amongst other things. You can adjust the fuel screw counterclock (out) to reduce the fueling.
  
  Oil consumption produces Blue'ish Grey out the exhaust.
  No adjustment screw for that one.
  Many different causes for that.
  Start by removing the valve cover cap while engine is running (cold and hot) and see how much smoke blows out.
  
  Coolant leak produces white'ish smoke.
  It will smell like anti-freeze burning boiling steaming.
  
  You might want to have someone drive the car past you so you can see/smell/diagnose what it seems to be.
  Could be a mixture of things
• #3 by Baron VonZeppelin on 10 Feb, 2012 18:18
• Injection timing being really low will make them very low on power and produce extra smoke too.
  
  No idea where you are on this car/truck or whats been done. sorry
• #4 by zolorin on 10 Feb, 2012 22:11
• timing is set to .95 mm
   has the governor mod
  
• #5 by bajacalal on 10 Feb, 2012 22:37
• It's not turbo, right?
  
  I would re-check the spline position and double check timing, then take the fuel screw out about 1/8 turn at a time (but I kind of doubt that's it), make note of how much you adjusted it so you can put it back later.  
  
  Also, how long have you been driving it since the crankcase has been properly vented? If it was completely plugged, like you say, for any significant amount of time, it will push oil past all seals, that includes the valve stem seals. It will take more than one trip around the block to burn it out so take it for a drive late at night when nobody is around to complain about your diesel fumigation.
  
  The air cleaner isn't soaked with the oil, right?
• #6 by Powjetta on 11 Feb, 2012 08:58
• I think the problem is with the IP, if you have done the gov mod as the first thing before any standard running.  From what I read these are tricky pumps to modify.  I don't have a spare good one to loan, I do have a spare parts pump if that may help. 
  He is turbo'd guys see the other thread -http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=30742.0
• #7 by bajacalal on 11 Feb, 2012 12:11
• The reason I ask is because if you have a massive boost leak (such as a stuck or loose overpressure valve), it will accelerate poorly and create a smoke screen.
  
  This assumes that you are actually running a pump with the boost aneroid connected, IMO they are "sensitive" enough to compensate for much more boost than is actually there.
• #8 by zolorin on 11 Feb, 2012 23:37
• Will recheck the timing again
  
  the IP pump does not have the aneroid -- I have turboed the engine without the boost compesation -- the eco diesel style. 
  
  I have replaced all of the o rings including the one on the smoke screw.  I have screwed it in all the way (till the collar) trying initially to get the engine running without realizing that I needed to adjust the splines.  So now have done that I am closer to the right position (hopefully it is the right one on the splines, maybe a notch away).  So I need to let it warm up and run it for a while to let the oil burn off and then do any adjustments?
  
  Thank you guys again
• #9 by ORCoaster on 12 Feb, 2012 08:12
• I would be tempted to start it up, warm it up, and then back the smoke screw out a bit.  If necessary adjust the idle up.  I would run it that way for a week then try backing it out another 1/8 turn and see if it starts to lose power when driving or accelerating.  Burning the oil off is going to probably have more visual than performance effects.  No sense smoking out the entire street when driving.  Just keep it to your lane.