New to me 1.6TD

[rallydiesel]

I have had mechanical pressure gauges that read ~10 psi lower than actual.

[steevz]

Measuring from the head or from the flange I'm only getting about 20-25psi cold start up and it goes down from there. If I get 25 psi cold start up at the flange doesn't that tell me that I'm having a problem before my crank and head. Wouldn't I be losing pressure from the oil pump or the vacuum pump?

I'm not sure how to check if I'm getting plenty of oil in the head.. if I pull the valve cover or look inside the oil fill cap while it's running there is oil. If I rev it while the caps off I can see it splattering around.

The wear on the bearings wasn't "excessive", but it was there.. I think they were all just old. Not sure if maybe I needed oversized bearings or not.. but they were worn down.. so I'd think that replacing them, and them being bigger then they were would show at least somewhat of an increase..?

[BillyWillicker]

Still low oil pressure?  Was the engine in the car or out of it when you did the work?  Also since it is a TD engine it has piston cooling jets and those can stick open and cause LOW oil pressure too.  I'll go back and read your thread again but did you replace the IM shaft bearings too?  I guess only the outer, the inner IM shaft bearing has to be aligned very properly or you will have problems there as well, also it is fed oil from the flange directly so if its bad you get really low pressure reading, in fact the inner bearing condition has more impact on oil pressure reading due to its proximity to the pressure tap than the outer bearing.  The grey coating is normal on the rod bearings and will be hard to wash off.  Also if the readings at the head and the flange are the same it means the head is good and you have loss in the lower end, my bet is on the IM shaft bearings or the piston squirters.

[steevz]

Thanks!
Replaced with the engine in the car. It really wasn't very hard. Also the reason I only did the outer IM bearing.

How do I check if the oil squirters are stuck open?

I'm going to pull the IM sprocket and shaft again enough that I can get my hand into the vacuum pump hole and feel the IM bearing for flaking. It looked okay from a visual inspection from the IM shaft hole with a light.

[BillyWillicker]

Piston cooling jets wear out, sometimes get busted by an intermediate shaft being wrestled out and back into the engine while its in the car.  They are usually pretty reliable though, mostly just need cleaning.  Good luck.

[steevz]

Alright, well I pulled the I shaft out enough to inspect the inner IM bearing.. it's very worn. No flaking but really worn. Checking for play there must be what felt like 1/16 to 1/8 play in the rear while holding the shaft in tight, so up-down play where the vacuum gear rides the shaft. I'm thinking I'll make a tool to replace the inner bearing and also swap out the shaft for my less worn one.. I think that's my problem.. right there.

Anyone have a tip for keeping the oil passage in the right place while fitting the new inner bearing?

[BillyWillicker]

Grease.  And continuous awareness of its orientation during installation.  I would take off the oil filter flange while replacing that bearing, the hole in the bearing needs to line up with the hole in the block coming from the flange otherwise the bearing will be shot very quickly.  The best way to install it is to pull it into the block rather than drive it in since you have a new outer bearing.  Good luck and I think you found your problem. 

[steevz]

I found a machine shop local that will make me the die I need for around $30. Used to work beside them so they know me.

Do you I just need the shoulder of the die to be a little smaller then the outside diameter of the bearing and the smaller diameter to be a little smaller then the inside diameter of the tool?

[BillyWillicker]

I would have the larger shoulder be a little larger than the OD of the bearing, ~.003" over.  The smaller diameter being ~.005" smaller than the ID of the bearing so it won't bind in the bearing once it's home.  Also on the inner bearing there is a groove in the bearing surface that goes from the hole to the edge of the bearing, that groove is there to provide oil to the gears that are next to that bearing.  That groove must point towards the rear of the block upon installation otherwise the gears will wear out faster, I haven't ever seen or heard of those gears wearing out though. 

Since I was conversing on the subject I decided to go look at my engine(It's in the middle of a rebuild, in pieces.)and saw that that bearing is the first bearing to get oiled and is fed directly from the filter flange and not the main oil gallery.  After seeing that I am dead nuts sure your oil pressure will be 100% when you get it back together, in fact, I bet it will be around 90-100psi on cold start. 

[steevz]

Finally should have a chance to pull the new bearing into the block tomorrow. I have a tool made for the job. Will get you guys some pics of it for tomorrow.

[BillyWillicker]

Nice!

[steevz]

Alright, well got the inner IM bearing in. With the engine in the car... ugh, what a PITA. Anyways, after back together I'm getting 80 psi at cold start from 25! Woohoo! Warm idle was around 25 psi instead of 0. Very nice! Great success!

Here are a couple pictures of my tool..

It started out looking great, pulled the old bearing no problem.



After pulling in the new bearing.. and my die being a little too tight it looked like this.



I got the new bearing in.. although, if I had to do it again I'll get a few thousandths taken off the ID of the die and use a stronger brace on the block.

[BillyWillicker]

Very nice job!  Those bearings do shrink pretty good. 

[steevz]

I have noticed that after running the car hot.. and turning off the ignition.. oil starts leaking from the oil pan.. on the transmission side. I'm thinking it's those two painful bolts that are on the inside of the flange on the transmission. Whats the trick to tightening these guys up? An 1/4 elbow joint for the socket?

[theman53]

A 1/4" drive 10mm wobble socket *not extension* is the only thing I have got to get in there. Sometimes use the wobble socket extension with the wobble socket on the one.