need verification about replacing cam - page 2 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
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#15 by 8v-of-fury on 12 Sep, 2011 20:10
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Unless you have a badly marred crescent wrench, then i see no reason why two perfectly flat surfaces should have issue together? -
#16 by nathan_b on 12 Sep, 2011 20:17
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Although that may be true, I am saying that it is an avoidable, unnecessary risk.
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#17 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 13 Sep, 2011 03:04
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Well either way this is a perfect example to you in the future of why to not use the cam lock when your tightening or loosening the cam sprocket bolt. Instead use a large adjustable wrench on one of the cam lobes.
I would also shine a light or poke a wire down the drains of the motor to see if there isn't any chunks stuck up in there.
Definitely pull the pan for sure.
I think it would be better to use vice grips on the raw casting of the cam instead of on the lobes.
You dont use a vice on crank journals to remove the timing gear do you?
(extreme example, but you get my point, hardened metals should not fight)
Absolutely.
With my engine; I undo with a wrench on the bolt, and then a sharp tap with a 2lb hammer always works.Tightening with same procedure.
Mind you though I never overgraunch this bolt in the first place, because I always clean to a 'matt finish' both sides of the taper.
When the fitting is good even finger tight has some grip.
'CAD'-man's tap on the bolt head before final tightening is a good policy too. -
#18 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 13 Sep, 2011 05:04
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Vice grip on the cam casting to tighten the cam sprocket nut? I'be be worried of it slipping and gouging the head. Make or buy a sprocket lock tool. Long piece of angle iron and 2 big bolts. The scissor type is the best design since it self adjusts to the holes in the sprocket.
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#19 by nathan_b on 13 Sep, 2011 08:11
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Vice grip on the cam casting to tighten the cam sprocket nut? I'be be worried of it slipping and gouging the head. Make or buy a sprocket lock tool. Long piece of angle iron and 2 big bolts. The scissor type is the best design since it self adjusts to the holes in the sprocket.
Not to tighten/loosen the nut, just for fine movement of the cam. Always use a pulley counterhold. Gripping the cam risks snapping it. -
#20 by silentdub on 13 Sep, 2011 11:38
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Wouldn't that throw off the balance of the shaft and cause vibration and premature wear/failure?
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#21 by nathan_b on 13 Sep, 2011 23:05
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if bending pulleys were an issue, they wouldnt have you knock it loose with a drift.
Also, They seem to be cast? (maybe wrong) but they seem like they would fracture long before they would bend.
plus they are just tough and over engineered. -
#22 by rs899 on 14 Sep, 2011 03:47
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Someone gave me a complete (hydro) engine and the cam looks like this one. I was afraid to use it ( hydro cams are in short supply south of the border), but looks like it's a pretty even split of opinions.