New IP, lever interference

[mortskeg]

Well I had a look around the site to see if there was anything on this, but couldn't find any.  Hopefully I'm not the first to run into this problem-

I'm throwing a rebuilt 1.6 and a rebuilt IP into my '81 pickup.  I'm in the process of hooking everthing back up.  The new IP didn't come with a accelerator cable bracket, but has the holes to mount up the old one.

In attaching the bracket, in order to put the passenger side bolt in, I have to advance the lever to max rpm.  However, once the bolt is in, it won't allow the accel lever to return to idle, due to a bent piece of metal on the underside of the lever that runs into the bolt.  There is too much interference to solve with any sort of grinding.  Something is going to have to go, or get seriously modified, but I don't nessesarily want to void the pump warranty.

Here's a pic of the situation, the bolt with the red arrow, and the offending tab on the underside of the pump lever in blue.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

[fspGTD]

Who'd you have rebuild your injection pump?  It looks like something didn't get put together the way it is supposed to be, or perhaps they used some incorrectly fitting parts from some different model number pump.  I'd take it back and have them deal with correcting the problem if they have a warranty and if it isn't too much of a hassle to get your pump back to them (looks like you may have already installed it.)

Otherwise to fix it yourself... there are always "macguyver" solutions.  Could that thin piece of sheetmetal under the main thick stamped throttle lever simply be unbolted from the works - does it serve some purpose?  You could try replacing the hex head 6mm bolt that is interfering with a low-profile countersunk allen head bolt.  Might need to countersink the hole in the throttle cable bracket a bit to get the head to sit flush.

Unfortunately I don't have a spare pump with that exact same throttle linkage (what is the model number?  Is it the original '81 1.6NA pump on your pickup or possibly from something else?) to compare "side by side" - the one on both of my 1.6lTDs have a quite different throttle lever setup with both springs being underneath the main throttle lever, not one on top and one below like on yours.

Good luck!

[Asymtave]

Mort,

Not pretty but you could use a Flat Socket Head Cap Screw.  

http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=91294A236

(I THINK it's a 6mm - better check first. Or is it 5mm?)  You coud counter-sink the bracket a little or not.  The positioning of the bracket is not critical.

Just a thought.  Hope this helps.

Eric

[malone]

What is that noose around your max. fuel screw?

[tylernt]

What is that noose around your max. fuel screw?

Looks like a safety wire to keep the locknut from vibrating loose and backing out? You see that a lot on critical fasteners on aircraft.

[fatmobile]

That piece isn't supposed to be under the accelerator lever.
 Here's a picture of the special tool I designed to keep that piece out of the way while I'm putting the lever back on.:

 You can probably just push it out from under there.

[mortskeg]

Thanks to everybody for the great advice.

Fatmobile, you are exactly right, that is that piece.  I had a good look at my pump on my 1.5 and figured out that whoever rebuilt my new pump (at bosch) didn't properly re-assemble the whole throttle lever.  It is supposed to be progressivly sprung, with the top spring doing most of the work at first.  With the way they've got it together, the bottom spring does all of the work, all of the time, and the top spring gets a free ride.  Consequently, that lower lever thing is not where it is supposed to be, and was interfering until I modified it.  As the single spring is working just fine I'll probably just run it for a bit as is.  I can't see that it would do any harm unless the bottom spring broke, then I'd have a stuck throttle condition.  Maybe that is why they used 2 springs for redundancy?  Or just increased resistance?  Anyhow on the rare chance that it should break, I guess I'll just do the old shut-the-key- off trick.

fspGTD, yep, this pump came with my rebuilt engine.  Not sure what it was off originaly but I think when I asked the lift spec was like .86mm which is different than any of the '84 and earlier specs.  I'd have to look again though.  My old 1.6 and pump are long gone, at a friends house, and this 1.5 had the 1.15mm 'yellow dot' pump.  It has the same spring setup as this new pump

Noose is safety wire but I think in this case it is more a factory preventative to keep people from messing with it.  It has the little stamped piece of metal (seal) on the wire.  Anything other than adjusting the idle screw voids the warranty, the max rpm is wired up too.  They have blue paint on every screw and bolt as well, so they know if it's been messed with I guess.

Thanks again for all the help.

[tylernt]

Maybe that is why they used 2 springs for redundancy? Or just increased resistance?

That's my guess, kind of like the way gassers have increased resistance when you open the second "barrel" on a CIS or CIS-E throttle.

Either that, or that second lever does something with the timing when it engages (driver asks for more power)?

[zyewdall]

What is that noose around your max. fuel screw?

Looks like a safety wire to keep the locknut from vibrating loose and backing out? You see that a lot on critical fasteners on aircraft.

It's because the fuel screw is set at the factory, and cannot be adjusted.   Not that that's ever stopped me....  

[mortskeg]

Either that, or that second lever does something with the timing when it engages (driver asks for more power)?

I was wondering about that at first, but I don't think there are concentric shafts, it is just the one shaft I think?  At least the diagrams I've seen look that way but I've never had it apart.