Blow by on a rebuild???

[theman53]

For the 1st 1,000 miles I didn't drive it like I stole it, but it NEVER idled. If I was at a light or stop sign I would rev it in Nuetral up and down just so it wasn't sitting there. That first 1,000 also it was pretty much acclerating and declerating constantly. Maybe that is why I didn't use a quart of oil in the first oil change.

Something doesn't add up with the engine builder here. I would say that the head was junk before and they may never have bored it in the first place. That is pretty much a longshot, but I would ask to see or measure the bore yourself before they touch it again. If it is 76.48mm I think that is stock and they charged you for nothing. Or they bored it way to big and used your stuff, but something happend that isn't right for sure.

[TDsamurai]

They are claiming the engine failed based on excessive combustion temperatures. Which i believe is caused by the oil that was being puked out the breather being burned through the intake. Which a cup in 50km i think would have the capability to raise the heat of the burn. The block was definately bored as i saw the new pistons and i received the engine as just an assembled bottom end, the cross hatching looked great. The cylinder head was cleaned, and pressure tested, before installed it had the famous cracks between the valve seats that most 1.6TD heads have and everything checked out. Apparently when the head was removed at the machine shop the pre cups fell out of the head. The precups are a loose fit now. I definately have the tools space and know how to build the engine myself i am a mechanic/fabricator/machinist haha. However my issue is time, and i was hoping for warranty if they build the engine but so far it seems they wont help me out anyway. Ill see the quote hopefully tomorrow, ill be happy if they just cover the labour. I priced out a head from the local auto parts store. apparently its a new head fully assembled with cam and everything for $625 that sounds quite reasonable to me what do you think?

Which pistons and rings should i go with? Ill look into Goetze do they make pistons and rings?

This is a pretty huge inconvience. I think ill have them build it again and run water meth injection and an aftermarket oil cooler. And check for blow by again and if its excessive again ill run the breather into a catch can for break in and if it fails again then ill throw the engine through their front window and tell them to pay for it and do it right. Ive heard so many mixed opinions and methods of breaking in an engine i think it must me difficult to screw it up unless you let it idle or hold an rpm. My biggest pain is i can't 4x my truck until i get a good 5-10000km on this engine.

I appreciate the input, these guys are starting to make me feel like i know nothing.

[Thezorn]

What reason did they give you as to why the head Isnt usable? Major warping from an overheat is the main reason you'd need a new one, other then that it should be quite easily rebuilt, If its actually needed.

For the 1st 1,000 miles I didn't drive it like I stole it, but it NEVER idled. If I was at a light or stop sign I would rev it in Nuetral up and down just so it wasn't sitting there. That first 1,000 also it was pretty much acclerating and declerating constantly. Maybe that is why I didn't use a quart of oil in the first oil change.

Something doesn't add up with the engine builder here. I would say that the head was junk before and they may never have bored it in the first place. That is pretty much a longshot, but I would ask to see or measure the bore yourself before they touch it again. If it is 76.48mm I think that is stock and they charged you for nothing. Or they bored it way to big and used your stuff, but something happend that isn't right for sure.

This also ^

Plus, the customer is always right   haha

[Rock3tman]

If the rest of your head is OK and just the precups are falling out, there are replacements 1.6L engines available from Italy that are just a bit oversize (your machine shop will have to flycut the recesses for the cups (...see my post from ~April 2011).

My new combustion chamber cups (frozen in freezer) were then installed into the head heated to 300F and peened 5 places around the perimeter away from the headgasket sealing area.

[guy plain]

TDsamuri ... where in canada are you?

[TDsamurai]

depending on what the core is worth on my head and how useable it is i might play with it at work. If i can get a complete new head for 625 and its here in 2 days its hard to justify waiting for precups from italy and all the machine work im pretty sure it would cost more. I need my truck back. I would however like to look into some head modifications though if i end up with a spare.

Im on vancouver island in BC

[guy plain]

 i may have a head...have to pull it off of an engine and have a look at it...im close to kamloops....i also grew up on the island lol

[theman53]

Kolbenschmidt  pistons are known good. As far as I know there rings are good too. I would still send them to total seal. As far as I know that is how we have to do it. I don't believe they make rings for us, or if they do it is way too much $$$.

As much as I hate to admit I am running pistons from Prothe with the Goetze rings and don't have a problem yet.

If you are super worried about heat then get them swaintech coated. Lord Verminaard on here did that and has been able to run some rediculously sustained EGT temps on an NA block. He just did the cheapest coating they have.

[TDsamurai]

all the parts are ordered. Should see them next week. Thanks for the offer, but i new fully assembled head will be here tomorrow for $625 i dont think i can get a one rebuilt for that price after machine work and labour. I dont know what rings or pistons they are going with this time but they said they are trying another brand of rings. not sure if they are cast or chrome? can you get cast rings for these engines and will they handle alot of power? Ive heard mixed opinions. All the parts are ordered but i still havent even seen a quote. i do know that the head costs 625 and the pistons are 3-400 so right there thats 1000 and they say they are replacing all the bearings as well so that probably 100-200 i really want to know if they are gonna help out on the labour.

[guy plain]

 i know on gassers we used cast rings...chrome ones ate out the bores...  with cast ones you just light hone and replace rings....with chrome ones it seemed like you needed to over bore, new pistons and rings every time...then tune to the new displacement...cast was just about replace and go...had to replace them more but with the engine not getting a (small) displacement change...
   just a thought

[Smokey Eddy]

I think healthy engine conditions make for a good break in. If i limited my boost to 3 psi;
firstly, i wouldn't be able to drive up the hill to my house
secondly, the EGTs would be in the 1,500 range up ANY incline around where I live...

i agree with ROR, drive it like you would normally. If you built it properly (meaning not too much fuel for insanely high egts) it will drive just great.
but do run conventional oil for at least 5,000 - 10,000km.

[TDsamurai]

My new head should be here tomorrow and it has a 1 year warrantee no matter what happens to it. Im getting anxious to see if they are going to cover anything. When i was breaking in my engine i was running stock fuel and boost for about 5000km and then bumped the fuel a bit and ran 25 psi.

What oil do you recommend for break in? i was using chevron delo 400 is that too thick for this thing ive heard some using 15 40 and some using 10 30

[theman53]

Rotella T 10w-30 NON synthetic. Run it at least until the 5,000 mile mark. I would change it after the first 20 minutes of running then at 1,000 miles then at your 5,000 miles. You don't have to change it all at the 20 minute mark, but most all of the shop towels, metal shavings and grease are in that oil first start, so at least spin on a new Mann filter.

All our rings as far as I know that I have seen are cast iron. They hold up well. Mine has seen 28psi max and daily 21psi with no issues at all.

Get a reciept for all parts and keep all packaging if this happens again.

Don't run Grant, topline, or Prothe rings no matter what they are made of.

[rodpaslow]

I my not know what I'm talking about so take with a grain of salt, but with a turbo engine for break in I would not go less than 15w40 regular oil, not sythetic.  This will get much better oil pressure all the time and keep engine temps down a wee bit.  The piston oil squirters in the block need to be doing their job.  My $.02 10w30 will not do as well as 15w40.

[R.O.R-2.0]

I my not know what I'm talking about so take with a grain of salt, but with a turbo engine for break in I would not go less than 15w40 regular oil, not sythetic.  This will get much better oil pressure all the time and keep engine temps down a wee bit.  The piston oil squirters in the block need to be doing their job.  My $.02 10w30 will not do as well as 15w40.

x2

your squirters open later with thin oil..

they open based on oil pressure.. and thin oil doesnt make pressure till higher in the RPM range..