WVO/WMO filter plan

[CathodeRayTube]

Ok so i have decided how im going to filter my WVO and WMO, but before i buy anything id like anybodys input. I picked out THIS filter housing: http://www.waterfilters.net/Big-Clear-Whole-House-Filter-Housing.html  with THIS filter:  http://www.waterfilters.net/WaterFiltersNET-P1-20BB-WF-Sediment-Water-Filter.html#tablist

It is a 20" long whole-house water filter, wich i read would work very nicely. I will be filtering down to 1 micron. the plan is to have a big funnel with a strainer (screen, old cloth whatever) over it wich the raw oil will be dumped into, from there the coarsely filtered oil will run thru a short pipe with some ring magnets inside it to catch metal filings from WMO, then it will drain into an old 40 gallon-ish pressure tank. when this tank becomes full, i will close a valve on the funnel pipe and apply compressed air to the tank via a schrader valve, and the pressure will force the oil out of the pressure tank and thru the large 1 micron filter in the link, and more neodymium magnets, into a 55 gallon drum. From the 55 gallon drum it would then be pumped thru an additional spin-on 1 micron filter as well as a water separator and into the fuel tank of the machine/vehicle using it. This whole assembly i plan to put on a big rolling dolly...

[arsenicpants]

none of this makes 1 micron of sense to me

[CathodeRayTube]

I forgot to mention that my main and only concern with the filter i picked out is reactions between the plastic and the oil, and the diesel/kero that i plan to mix with it.

[maxfax]

Doesn't sound too bad..   AS far as reactions with the plastic, most likely it will just get discolored over time..  THe one I was using for WVO had a rubber gasket which I would guess is not oil resistant, but since it is replaced with each filter change it has been fine.... 

One issue will be that some of the metals in the WMO are not magnetic..  A "settling" stage would be a very wise idea.. I usually dump it (WVO and WMO) though the screen and let it settle e a few days. Some heat during this process (actually though the whole process) helps alot. The settling will also help you rid some water.. After settling then you would suction the oil from the top of the container all but a few inches from the very bottom..

The other thing I would recommend is sucking the oil through the final filter.. 2 reasons..  One, filters exploding when the plug sucks much bad!!!!!!! THe other is that even with a somewhat low pressure pump you still may force some particles though it..

I've been dieseless for months so my rig is kind of burried at the moment..  IF I get a chance tomorrow I can dig it out and snap some pics.. I'm only set up to do about 15 gallons at a time if I store it in the rig.. I have a 275 gallon tank with a screened funnel on top that I store the stuff in till I'm ready.. It has a drain at the very bottom to drain water and clean it..  THen I have a spigot about 6" from the bottom I use to drain the WVO into buckets and dump in the filter rig.. The first tank on rig (15 gallon steel drum) had a screen over the top, a drain welded on the very bottom, then I welded a pipe fitting in the bottom and used a 220V water heater element for heating..  I only run 110v so no need for a thermostat.. I have a pipe dropped down the drum that is about 3" from the bottom.. That pipe leads to the water filter, then the 1 micron filter, to an old hydraulic pump.. I have a 15 foot hose on the other end of the hydro pump that I can either put right to the car or to a storage tank..   I have 2 ball valves that can be switched that allows me to block the flow from the filters and allow it to the storage tank so that I can fill the car from the plastic storage tank...
Also, right after the filters I have a vac gauge which is WONDERFUL for monitoring filter life..

[UAofE]

WVO and WMO

Why use the two worst possible choices for fuel? Do you enjoy abusing your engine and polluting the environment?

[Vincent Waldon]

Why use the two worst possible choices for fuel? Do you enjoy abusing your engine and polluting the environment?

Just ignore, gents... account has been disabled.  

[wdkingery]

well what ever happened here?

[745 turbogreasel]

No idea, but I'll add my wisdom.

Never ever suck from the bottom.
A few days settling in the sun greatly enhances filter life and oil quality.
Heat can expand the mesh on some filters, as well as allowing unwanted goo to pass(real bad if you have an unheated tank).
Don't be greedy, as soon as you get to suspect looking stuff, stop.
If you can get your source to run through a shortening filter draining the fryer, you are way ahead of the game.

Following the above rules,after a year in steady service, my tank was cleaner than most fryers inside!

I like a gas operated(diesel if you got one) pump sucking from the top of a 300 gal tote, splitting to 3 sock filters each of which is over its own drum.  My 3 HP pump  will fill a drum in about 8 minutes, figure an hour and a half to filter 300 gal as  you are limited by sock flow rate.

[CathodeRayTube]

Project has been on the shelf for a while. basically there were no decent or reasonably priced VW diesels around for my swap, (yards wanted over $1000 for an engine with 250+ miles on it) and modding the VW engine to fit the toyota trans would have been very complex, so iv ordered an actual toyota diesel from japan, wich should be here soon and will be much easier/cheaper to work with. As for the filter plan i still intend to go down to 1 micron but havent done much planning or built anything yet. nor have i collected much grease/oil to experiment with.

[maxfax]

Nice!!  You need to start a thread with pics when you get started...

[CathodeRayTube]

And just so i dont feel out of place on the VW forum...i still have the 81 Rabbit D and its running OK for now...has some issues that need attention, but it will be restored/modded eventually.

[maxfax]

i still have the 81 Rabbit D and its running OK for now...has some issues that need attention

Find me one that doesn't..  hahah

Back on the subject of filtration..  THe guy that used to supply my WVO opted to convert the oil furnace that he heats his restaurant with to burn it.. Bad for me, good for him..  He had various arrays of settling tanks and filters to begin with..  Aside from lost of filter issues and leaks he just didn;t have the space for all that stuff..  So he and a buddy built a centrifuge..

I've contemplated the idea, but between time and me being lazy I never got far..  So I was out eating wings at this restaurant (the very wings my exhaust used to smell like) and he asked if I wanted to see the end all of all his filtering problems..   

The darn thing really worked well..  Fast, no pre heating needed..  ALthough normally he would drain the fryer hot and dump the oil to it right off..  It would work even faster that way..  The end product was amazing too..  It actually looked clearer than what I'm getting out of filters and settling.. Almost like new oil again..  Most impressive was we dumped a few gallons of NEW fuel grade (meaning it should already be clean right?) soy oil to the thing, and it even cleaned that up a tad...

He claimed to have about $600 in his, I know it can be done for less..  I think if I ever get back to burning WVO/WMO I will invest the time into one of these.. Heck the time saved in filtering, and even the cost of filters will be worth it..   Next time I'm out there I gotta try remember my camera...

[mtrans]

I give up filter once blow,so get CF lot of money but best.CF 50 lit for 1h,after I go directly from CF to 4000 lit 35 yr old tank.By same pump used for CF I pull and mix with car filter for 30 min than go to car tank.
For me filter to filter = CF and CF SCHOULD be 0.1 micron.