Additives

[Wayland]

Regarding the Eco Fuel Saver: I'm rather skeptical that adding .5cc of some mystery fluid to a litre of diesel is going to increase my mileage by 25%, but I'm curious enough about it to give one bottle a try. I'm planning on a trip of about 1000 miles in my 93 Dodge Cummins diesel in a couple of weeks, so I'll test it then and post up the results. I guess that's really all the company needs is for everybody to be curious enough to try it once, and they've made their fortune

Just got back tonight from my trip. Ran a tank with straight diesel, and a tank with Eco Fuel Saver. During the first tankful I spent half an hour or so in stop-and-go traffic, and several hours using the AC. Second tank (with additive) was all straight highway. Second tankful mileage was slightly poorer, but pretty much the same as the first tank, so I think it's fairly safe to say the stuff doesn't do anything, which doesn't surprise me at all.

[R.O.R-2.0]

Regarding the Eco Fuel Saver: I'm rather skeptical that adding .5cc of some mystery fluid to a litre of diesel is going to increase my mileage by 25%, but I'm curious enough about it to give one bottle a try. I'm planning on a trip of about 1000 miles in my 93 Dodge Cummins diesel in a couple of weeks, so I'll test it then and post up the results. I guess that's really all the company needs is for everybody to be curious enough to try it once, and they've made their fortune

Just got back tonight from my trip. Ran a tank with straight diesel, and a tank with Eco Fuel Saver. During the first tankful I spent half an hour or so in stop-and-go traffic, and several hours using the AC. Second tank (with additive) was all straight highway. Second tankful mileage was slightly poorer, but pretty much the same as the first tank, so I think it's fairly safe to say the stuff doesn't do anything, which doesn't surprise me at all.

i guarantee my 2 cycle oil was like 5x cheaper, and did about the same thing.. 

im not running additive to improve mileage, im running it to save my new fuel pump. 

[R.O.R-2.0]

The reason places like Wal*Mart etc take used oil is they do actually recycle it.  It gets run through a centrifuge and then they add whatever additives it needs to be brought back in spec.  That's where most of the cheaper brands of oil get their supplies.  Up here Canadian Tire have their "NuGold" line... Once you have that little tidbit of information you can see why they call it that.  It used to be black, they made it "Nu" and "Gold" again.    With that in perspective, they don't really want to give it away.

You can run WMO up to a certain mix before it starts getting stinky.  From what I've read anything beyond 50% will start to smell BAD after it is burned. 

Filtration is definitely a big deal.  After my last oil change the bottom of my drain pan had a fair bit of sand and grit from the bottom of the car that was knocked loose during the changing process.  Wouldn't want to dump that in my tank.  I don't think you have to go TOO far if you're only say taking the last 4 liters you drained out and mixing it with 40+L of real diesel - just strain it through a paint filter or a coffee filter or something to keep the bigger pieces out and make sure you are running a good quality fuel filter in the vehicle.  If you want to run large quantities of it though then you probably want to invest in a more thorough filtration system.

If you're just blending with regular diesel it isn't going to hurt anything.  It will however give you some otherwise "free" fuel and help thicken modern fuel up to closer to the old diesel specifications.  It's not like most of you have catalytic converters to worry about or anything like that and as long as it's grit-free it definitely won't hurt the pump or injectors.

I've run various motor oils, auto transmission fluid and parowax in my fuel (not all at once!) without any ill effects.  All of them provide additional lubrication for your injection pump.  I've heard of someone on here (I think) who was running their car on a 50% mix of diesel and used hydraulic fluid since he was able to get it free from work.  IDI engines really aren't picky as long as whatever the fuel is it doesn't eat seals, provides lubrication to the pump, burns and will flow through the injection lines.  If you are planning on long term use of the engine, something that doesn't leave bad deposits (ie the glycerin in vegetable oil) is also a plus. 

back when i was still young and stupid, i ran 100% wmo in my 81 rabbit 1.5TD, and upon cold start, you would have thought the rings were non-existent, along with the valve seals.. lol.

straight blue smoke for the first few mins of running, the it was fine. you could still tell it was engine oil it was burning tho, driving behind me, even if i wasnt pouring coals..

HOLY CRAP! ive never seen such a smokey fuel.. my car would pour a little trail of black with regular diesel, but with WMO, it would FILL THE ENTIRE HIGHWAY with black as night smoke.. i was amazed at the amount of smoke WMO makes.. guess it just goes along with someone saying that it makes ASH as it burns..

[mtrans]

80-90% for hot weather on hidraulic,wmo or atf no smoke,
but CF,2 tank-only 1.5 lit for disel tank,heated fuel line,looped return etc.

[wdkingery]

mtrans:

what did you use to thin the wmo/atf? what was the other 10-20%?

[mtrans]

-up to 3 % ULP
-0.2 % acetone
-0.2 % xilol
- wax or same cetane booster from time to time
rest is ULSD mix by pump for 30 min before going to tank 70 lit, but remember this is also factor:
CF,2 tank-only 1.5 lit for disel tank,heated fuel line,looped return etc.

It`s mostly good WVO setup,I start for WVO but can`t find it and truly I didn`t like that I see.
And this is Fiat IDI NA 2500.

Truly,in sumer he hardly see 15% ULSD.

[rodpaslow]

I looked at the start of this post and I have not been able to get gulf wax to dissolve in deisel we get here in Can.  I research a bit more and found mineral oil is same type of thing only in liquid form.  Has anyone tired this.  I put about a third of a 500ml bottle in and seems to have made lower rpm cruise and acceleration a bit more quiet than without it.  Just wondering if anyone has used it long term and had some drawbacks?

[mtrans]

I research a bit more and found mineral oil is same type of thing only in liquid form. 

If this is 2T than OK? One great man told that 2% of wax is OK.Anything more viscous is good,but bit more quiet is ok but not much it's has to be like Disel,quiet=retarded.Step by step,one thing ONLY and watch.

[ORCoaster]

Well Rodpaslow I can not believe that it is that cold in Canada.  You could actually warm the diesel up on an electric plate to get it to say 50 C and drop or shave your wax into it.  But honestly if you put a small one gallon can out in the sun with 4 oz of cut up or shaved wax in it the solar heating would do the job for you.  Just shake it a bit a few times to get it to go into solution.  Are you using hard candles or canning wax.  You say gulf wax and that is the brand on the box I use all the time.  I keep the gallon in the back of the car as I park it for most of the week and it gets pretty hot in there. 

Mineral Oil, yes a subsitute for the thickening and cetane.  If I were located above the lower 48 then this is the method I would use.  Just downright simple to do.  Maybe not as clean if you try and do it without a funnel.  As for drawbacks, none that I know of and it may end up being cheaper actually.  There seems to be Mineral oil everywhere at a good price and wax seems to have a strange pricing formula.  Not sure why.

I have run mineral oil and ATF in the mix as a subsitute for the wax.  Mostly because I wanted to try it after reading it did the same thing as the wax.  If you put 1/3 of 500 ml in that would be close to 6 oz US measure.  I would say you are at the point you need to be.  The results are in the way it runs, and it sounds like yours is doing right.  The extra thickening you are doing is making up for the lack of pressure your pump was designed to produce with a thicker fuel, #2 diesel, not the ULSD.  The boost to mileage and acceleration is gained by the extra cetane in the oil that is processed out of the ULSD fuel.  That is why it sounds and runs the way it should. 

Enjoy, If you can get a measure on that IP you might be surprised to find where it runs with and without the additive.  You wouldn't need a whole tank to figure that out either.  Just measure your tank mix and then throw on a gallon at the fuel filter and let it cycle out a bit then back to the source container.  There is roughly a liter of fuel in the pump and it takes just about 90 seconds at idle to move that much through the pump if the idle pressure is correct at 43#. 

[mtrans]

There seems to be Mineral oil everywhere at a good price and wax seems to have a strange pricing formula.  Not sure why.

When i fire waxoil there is 0,00 ash,perhaps is price for.That great man who like his name with little h,has a lot theory about.
No wax if it's cold.

[ORCoaster]

hagar was all about no ash and no wax when it could gell out on you.  He cautioned his Canadian and Maine friends a bunch to watch the temperature if you ran his wax idea. 

[rodpaslow]

Thanks for the reply ORCoaster.  I've had the gulf wax in a clear container with about 2 litres of diesel in something like a greenhouse so it gets fairly warm.  we are still getting around +20°C (about 70°F) and some of the wax has dissolved, but the majority hasn't so I was very hesitant to add it.  The mineral oil was $5.00 for the 500mls and does the same and a lot easier to add.  I will likely keep adding this until it starts getting into  the minus temps.  It will be interesting so see at what temp it gets too thick to add, if it does.  I don't have much experience with mineral oil, but so far I definitely hear a difference.

Thanks Again.

[mtrans]

What kind of mineral oil?Both is good for up on viscous,but only wax do cetane boost.

[ORCoaster]

I was looking through a document last night that I created from hagerisms as I read through his saga.  One point I noticed is that he was putting 750 mls of his oil into 20 liters of fuel.  So the ratio you are running would be a little on the thin side for his comfort level I think.  Maybe not, he mentioned many times that what he does is not what you have to do. 

He would also suggest that you take that bottle of mineral oil and just put it in the fridge and then the freezer.  Does it solidify in either place?  If not you now know it won't do that in your tank either.  So try that for an experiment.

[mtrans]

Hagar has meny levels of wax,for test and for use.He told one can drive on pure waxoil but watch on temp,which I didn't try,but I belive him.2% is min he told for ULSD, for our D2 engines but you can use more for your $.
I put mineral oil  in the freezer 4 years ago,and as I memory it's not gel but I dont know is it pure oil or mix(easy to try who wants).Disel oil isn't good as petrol oil,or even better here is oil from petrol car driven by
propane kind - oil isn' dark AT ALL it is often yellow kind.
Last winter i drive long trip  on 90% on -10c no problem,but on told configuration of car w/o wax ofcorse.
I like hagerisms