I have personally completed this swap twice within the last 6 months. That being two 1.6 mk2 diesel motors in to two 1.7 mk1 engine bays.
Here is EVERYTHING you need to know
The gas tank and all your fuel lines will work. The filler neck should work too, as I have yet to see an mk1 Jetta with a small filler neck. Both my 84's and my 81 have the larger filler neck. Go check yours
and take a picture of it so we can see. For the fuel lines you will need to get under the passenger side of the rear before the axle and take the high pressure pump out of the fuel feed line. Cut the metal fuel line, flare it and then connect it to the metal barb on the side of the fuel tank with some gas/diesel rated rubber hose. Up in the engine bay you can then cut the fuel lines where they come up in to the engine bay, and mount your filter stock like on the passenger strut tower, or passenger fender. Or you can just leave the metal lines going over to the driver side and mount your filter there.
As for the motor mounts three of the four you have now will work, it would be wasteful to find "diesel specific" mounts if your are in good shape. You could replace all the rubber mounts now with HD ones while its out if you want. I assume you will use the original transmission? It will bolt up to the mk2 motor without any problem and whatever clutch you have in there will be fine. While we're on the clutch topic, have you ever driven the car this motor came out of? It might be worth while at replacing while you have everything out on the ground and accessible.. to put it together to find out you only need to take it all back apart would be horrible. Trust me, been there
. Now this fourth mount that you will need to get, it IS a diesel specific mount only in that it holds the injection pump to the motor.
Injection Pump
To remove the old mk2 mount and replace it with a diesel specific mk1 passenger side motor mount, you have to remove the injection pump from the motor.. and doing so is kind of involved if you've never worked on the vw diesel before. Not hard, just tedious, and needs to be done to a tee (T).
Read Thishttp://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28This Is What You Need
This is what you have on the mk2 motor -sorry for the small photo.. notice the lack of the part that mounts to the car?
This is what you have on the 1.7 motor -essentially the mount in this picture.
By taking the pump off the motor and having to put the timing belt back on (which along with the tensioner should be replaced now unless you know for FACT it was done recently) you will need to reset the timing of the crank-to-cam-to-injection pump. It needs to be exact, there has been luck with the "mark and pray" method.. but a few thousandths of an inch and you have pistons touching valves.. is it worth it? possibly.. because inorder to set the timing you either need to know the procedure in the link above, or have someone who knows how.. and also has a set of these;
A Timing gauge and the appropriate hardware to lock the camshaft and pump at TDC for the timing procedure.
The stop solenoid on the pump is easy, as stated just use the wire that originally would be a KEY-ON/START power for the coil. Glowplugs are also easy to setup. You COULD hunt down all the mk1 wiring, and be out a lotta money and time.. and still be left with a subpar glow plug system.. OR you could make your own system from scratch like I did.
So what you see in this picture, is a universal lawn tractor solenoid. Essentially a big relay, one that can handle 50a continuously. . each plug pulls about 10a, so 40a with overhead. The bottom main connection goes directly to my battery + positive, the solenoid is then triggered by a very small gauge wire, as you can see the small black and white wire running up under my coolant bottle to the cabin. The main current is then transferred over to the thick grey wire, up to a buss-bar where each glow plug is then fed by its own fused 12g wire. Basically what this does, is allows an easy glow plug controller to be added to any car.. especially diesel swaps. It also now allows your glow plugs to get the most amperage they have ever seen. Instead of the power going battery, fusebox, glowplug relay, fuses, long wiring, and then the plugs.. it follows a bigger quicker route directly to them. They now see the full 12v, and 10a as compared to 8/9v and maybe 8a it saw on old stock wiring..
I think I have covered most everything, anything you think of dont hesitate to ASK!
Topic: 1.6D Swap (Read 10439 times)
