Diesel noob questions.

[ORCoaster]

48 on the first tank?  What a great place to start.  Why do I say that?  If break in goes well then mileage goes up from here. 

On that note, search this forum for break in and see what is recommended.  Something short of drive it like you stole it is best in my book.  You what it to wear, in a controlled manner and fairly even.  So it is all about going up and down the RPM range to make the engine work and coast and be steady as you go.  Look for other posts I know I have read them here.  worst thing I can think to do is baby it.

I have generally changed out the oil after the first 1000 on a new engine and I have run non synth for the first couple of changes to get it broken in.  Then gone to the thinner synth oils.
But I wouldn't go 5000 on the first change.  The second yeah, and I have a change the oil change the filter mentality from days gone by.  It's a few bucks of insurance in my eye.  And yes buy good filters, why run good oil through something that won't keep out the crud?

I run my Rabbit instead of the Ranger for a similar price break.  22 mpg on the truck but 44-50 on the VW. 

Good going and keep going.  I will post pressures as they develop but given that my drive is twice a week and not daily the time to posting may be awhile.  First I need a fitting.


Quantum TD:  My son did the straight veg oil thing in his 84 Rabbit until it flipped the timing belt and he did 70 - 0 in short order on his way to check into a Dodge Ram diesel.  The veg oil parts did not go to waste, in fact they got an upgrade.  Better water heat exchanger in place of glow plugs prior to the IP.  From what I know, which may not be enough, is that the IP runs between 43.5 and 74 lbs from idle to full on so I am not sure you could tell much with a 10 bar sender. 

Did you not compensate the low internal pressure by adding a low pressure pump on the front side of the pump?  3-5 psi or something?  Maybe I read it elsewhere. 

And you should blow off 38 mpg.  That is still above average for US cars you know.  But I see Caddy numbers in the 50's so you have some distance to make up there.  Lose the heavy foot?  Nah, what about the time is money business.

[theman53]

I would think that freeway driving is going to be low on the list for ideal break in. You should have the RPM's varied most all of the time if you can. 48 is great though.

[meanvw]

So , how normal is it that I would have oil in the air filter housing if my engine is fresh?
I did put the plastic shield that goes on top of the cam when I did the head.  
No oil on the paper element itself, but a little puddle of oil in the housing.  Looks as if that housing was designed with some little holes so this oil could drain into and be consumed by the engine.  

Another fill up tomorrow.  Anxious to see mpg on tank #2 of fuel.  Getting front end alignment tomorrow.  I converted this rabbit from power to manual steering.  One front tire wearing a little wierd after 1000 miles.  Not bad, but still enough to want to fix it. Maybe front end alignment good for some mpg boost.

Also found source for b100 at $3.58 a gallon.  Going to try a 2% blend by putting about 1 quart in each tank full.  Any thoughts on that?

[vanbcguy]

So , how normal is it that I would have oil in the air filter housing if my engine is fresh?
I did put the plastic shield that goes on top of the cam when I did the head.  
No oil on the paper element itself, but a little puddle of oil in the housing.  Looks as if that housing was designed with some little holes so this oil could drain into and be consumed by the engine.  

Another fill up tomorrow.  Anxious to see mpg on tank #2 of fuel.  Getting front end alignment tomorrow.  I converted this rabbit from power to manual steering.  One front tire wearing a little wierd after 1000 miles.  Not bad, but still enough to want to fix it. Maybe front end alignment good for some mpg boost.

Also found source for b100 at $3.58 a gallon.  Going to try a 2% blend by putting about 1 quart in each tank full.  Any thoughts on that?

I can't speak for a new engine but it's definitely normal for one with some miles on it.  If your rings are still seating some blowby is probably to be expected.

2% bio definitely won't hurt anything.  Here in BC "standard" diesel is 5% bio now without any ill effects on anything.  Levels as low as 2% have been shown to dramatically increase lubricity, prolonging the life of your injection pump.

[meanvw]

Alignment done today, camber was +1.4 left, -.2 right.  Toe +.94 left, +1.25 right.  Not sure how bad that is, but shop said it was out of spec. Between swapping in a manual steering rack, and different et on wheels, I was expecting to align.  Car had power steering. I am running mk1 scirocco stock alloys- 10 spokes.

2nd tank 46mpg.  I pushed it harder and varied speed more on advice that I should do so on break in.   Not sure why, but this diesel pump gurgled awhile before kicking off, took a little over 9 gallons.  Gauge reads all the way past full. Last fill up it barely touched the line
 
1000 mile oil change and final 1/4 turn tighten on head bolts.
Check valve clearances, re check pump advance.
Install radio- looking forward to music most!

[ORCoaster]

If you are trying to watch the MPG history it is important to always go to the same pump and let it kick off and top off the same way every time.  Otherwise you may end up with more fuel one time than others. 

My gauge always goes beyond the full mark.  I get  120 miles off the top end before it touches the full mark.  Therefore I have all my reserve on the top end.  Just how my gauge is set.  I take about 8 gallons in a 10 gallon tank when it just touches the yellow/red area at the empty side of the gauge.  Pulled 49.6 mpg on the last tank.  Guy filling me up was fairly young and couldn't believe it when it shut off.  "Is that all it is going to take?  Is that about right?"  When I told him that is good for the 400 miles I just went he just looked at the beater car and shook his head.  "How can you do that?"

Simple it is a VW.

Running the Biodiesel wouldn't hurt and may extend the life of the pump.  I run additives myself.

[meanvw]

Did 1000 mile oil change. Put final 1/4 turn on head bolts. Adjusted valves. New fuel filter. Installed radio. Life is good/

Now I want to buy the valve adjusting tools...  I checked everything with feeler gauge, did my calculations, removed cam, blew the adjuster discs out with air, set the new ones in, re-installed cam, timed it again.  I think in the future will be much easier to just own the right tools.

[8v-of-fury]

Not sure why, but this diesel pump gurgled awhile before kicking off, took a little over 9 gallons.  Gauge reads all the way past full. Last fill up it barely touched the line

Diesel bubbles quite a bit more than gas, once it kicks off let it sit for 20 or so seconds and then add more, and repeat until you can see fuel in the filler neck. You will then be as full possible

[ORCoaster]

Not everyone can do that.  We Organized folks have to depend on a good attendant that knows that diesel foams more than gas and it will click off well before the tank is really good and full.  I have this one gallon can that I mix my additives in and I put that in before getting the tank filled.  Once that is filled I have them do the little tank, that always is a pain for them because it foams so bad they think it is full and when they stop it is only half.  I should start asking that they go back to the car tank and continue on it until it clicks again.  Maybe I would get a little more but they may not do it because they have all been trained to pull it when it clicks off.

One time I got this really slow fill and the pump never did click off.  It started pouring down the side of the car just as the guy was coming back thank goodness.  I don't think I would have noticed as I was in the process of writing down all the information I keep when I fill.  Date, Miles OD, Trip, $/gal and waiting for the gallons to final.  I would have known something was amiss when they tried to charge me for 12 gallons in a 10 gallon tank.  That would have been an interesting conversation.

[wdkingery]

that is the wildest thing..

i've never in my life had anyone else pump my gas.. i think way back in the day you could pay alittle more for an indentured servant to do it but .. we did away with that in the 70's.

[R.O.R-2.0]

that is the wildest thing..

i've never in my life had anyone else pump my gas.. i think way back in the day you could pay alittle more for an indentured servant to do it but .. we did away with that in the 70's.

]

come to oregon, we are the western land of gas pumpers..

[meanvw]

Continuing the new guy questions - before I go and drop $50 plus shipping for the valve adjuster tools from parts place Inc.  Is there another way to change those shims, or another source for the tools?  I got my timing tools from parts place, and was happy with quality. Did it this time, but I don't want to pull the cam every time to adjust valves.  I've got a few other people's cars I can work on too... Tools usually a good investment for me.

I didn't get a chance to get all the valves shimmed right because I only had a few extra shims that were the right size laying around on Sunday when I decided to do this.  I did get the 2 valves that were the furthest off adjusted, and driving it today, just those 2 valves made a big difference.  Mostly in making the engine quieter, but between everything I did do, seems like it has a little more power.  Could have been fuel filter too.  One that was on there was old.

Found source for the b100- today's price $3.54 a gallon.  Today  diesel is $3.95 a gallon here.  I am planning to do 1 quart per fill up of the b-100 added to regular diesel.  If my math is correct this would give me a 2.5% blend.  Doing the biodiesel to add lubrication to fuel system.  The biodiesel place is 85 miles off my regular route, or else I might try running that b100 for the $.40 a gallon savings.  But I have someone willing to pick me up a 5 gallon tank of it and bring it down to me each week... So I'll work with that.

[ORCoaster]

I like having new tools!  And ones proper for the job are even better.  I guess it is just a matter of how much use you are going to get out of them.  Sometimes I just barter my service on something for the tools others own.  Like a few weeks ago. I borrowed a pressure washer to spruce up the concrete and retaining wall blocks around the house, they grow green gunk on them after a few years.  Once I had it all set up and running it was pouring water out of the handle and little out the hose.  So I dismantled it and found a sliced o ring was the culprit.  For less than a buck I bought two of them, installed one and put the other on the machine should it happen again.  The lender was very appreciative, said he didn't know it was tits up when he loaned it to me.  I said sure, sure, you lent it to me because you knew I would be fixing it like new. 

I have taken Shucks now that O Irish named place up on borrowing there tools.  Not always happy with the quality but generally they get the job done. 

I would stick with someone bringing you the 5 gallon can.  How many gallons will that make at 2.5 quarts per tank.  Much better than driving out of your way that is for sure.

[meanvw]

3rd fill up on new engine..... same BP station as the 2nd fill up.  Pump nozzle has 4 "clicks" that you can set the handle on, let it pump on the 2nd click which pumped the fuel pretty slow.  Same as I did the last time.  gurgled again for awhile before shutting off.  418 miles, 8.32 gallons = 50.24 MPG

Things I did during this tank of fuel to improve mileage:
Adjusted some of the valves
Changed the oil
Changed the manual transmission oil
Front end alignment
Changed fuel filter

I actually think I've got the chance to improve this MPG even more.  I think I must have lost some fuel changing the fuel filter.  I was not sure whether or not it would be a good practice to dump the fuel that was inside the old filter back into the new filter (or the tank), so I just threw that filter and whatever fuel was in it (maybe 1/2 Quart+) into the waste oil drain pan.
I also had 2 different times where I idled the motor for about 10 minutes at a crack.  One time to see if the electric radiator fan system was working, and another time talking with one of the mechanics at work and showing him the car.

I am getting inspired to go a little wild with this by reading a little of what the Top Gear tv show guys did to make a 70MPG rabbit.  They put a TDI in theirs, but I'm hoping 55-60mpg could be a realistic goal for me?  I am thinking about starting off by making a smooth pan for the underside of the car.  Also right now the back end of the car sits lower than the front... I think mostly because of dying original rear springs.  I know that rear end dragging cant be the best aerodynamics.

Not going to go too wild trying to achieve mileage though until I get past atleast 1 more oil change to break in the rings.  Maybe at the 10,000 mile point I'll switch to synthetic oil and baby the car to see what I can get for mileage.. Right now I'm doing a lot of varying speed mostly between 55mph and have had it up to about 69mph which is (4 mph over the limit) about all I usually ever go on the freeway.

I am getting the 5 gallons of bio diesel delivered this weekend.  Not sure if blending that in will help MPG.  Really just hoping to further quiet the engine down, and to preserve the pump and injectors by adding lubrication.

Reading other threads, I think that my vacuum pump (I have the diaphragm style on the car) might be near dead.  It does produce some vacuum, but leaks down very fast, and does not pull very hard. At idle if I put my finger on the hose between the pump and the brake servo, takes maybe 5-8 seconds before I can feel any suction... and never really pulls that hard.  I have the other vane style pump sitting in a parts bin.  Might try to install that.  If I suck air from the line going into the brake servo, it really never gets to the point where it becomes hard to pull air.  Maybe the servo might also be leaking... although the brakes seem to be OK.  If I pump the brakes more than just once it gets much harder to press the pedal.  Going to try swapping the vac pump first, then if that vane style one doesnt work, will order up the kit and rebuild the diaphragm style one.  I think that maybe because that vac pump is always pulling air, maybe be putting more air inthe crank case and putting some extra oil out the breather.  Although I have far less oil in the air box now that I changed the oil, and adjusted the valves.  Other thing I was thinking is that I've got the Quantum TD bottom end with the oil squirters... maybe that makes for more vapors in the crank case?