Those almost look like they'd be the exact same size as the bleeder screw I'm working with on the front caliper.
I hear you vince, but no time or money for new calipers.. and other than the bleeder being fubar'd the caliper is in great shape other wise.
i broke the bleeder off the front caliper on my GTI, and i just loosened the banjo bolt on the line and bled the brakes that way.. it was the front left side, closest to the master cylinder..
I've done the same more than once, most recently on the right front of my jetta. Sometimes it's a little harder and takes a bit longer than doing ut right, as the fluid needs to 'dribble' into the caliper and the air has to sort of bubble back up, but it does work just fine on an otherwise serviceable caliper. At least in a pinch.
One way to remove the bleeder, if there is at least a little sticking up from the caliper body, is to use an oxy/acetylene torch to heat the bleeder red hot, try not to heat the rest of the caliper, let cool slightly and then spray with penetrating oil (carefully, as the first squirt or two will smoke, fume, and quite possibly flash up into flames. just keep spraying.) spray intermittently until coolish, repeat, but this time try to remove the bleeder while hot after the first spray that does not flash off.
ive always used a really wet rag.. then you dont have to worry about catching on fire or exploding
the objective is to get the bolt to shrink in the hole. the oil, or water, is just for cooling purposes basically..
small easy outs work also..
ive always used a really wet rag.. then you dont have to worry about catching on fire or exploding
the objective is to get the bolt to shrink in the hole. the oil, or water, is just for cooling purposes basically..
Though you are largely correct, I have better luck with penetrating oil, as a little of it will work down the threads also, if you are lucky.
small easy outs work also..
It's probably just me, but I've broken more little ez-outs than I care to count. The worst part is that I usually know that I'm going to have to drill and tap when I start, but i still try the ez-out and then break it. So i wind up having to remove the bits of ez-out, before I can drill and tap, which I should have just done in the first place, and saved myself the five minutes with the ez-out, and a half hour removing the busted ez-out. I should point out that I was the patient one that got all the troublesome extractions in the shop, so I've had more experience on rusty ontario/quebec junk than many people, and therefore kind of expect the worst.
Anyways , if you are using an ez-out, I'd suggest using heat first anyways.
ive always used a really wet rag.. then you dont have to worry about catching on fire or exploding
the objective is to get the bolt to shrink in the hole. the oil, or water, is just for cooling purposes basically..
Though you are largely correct, I have better luck with penetrating oil, as a little of it will work down the threads also, if you are lucky.
small easy outs work also..
It's probably just me, but I've broken more little ez-outs than I care to count. The worst part is that I usually know that I'm going to have to drill and tap when I start, but i still try the ez-out and then break it. So i wind up having to remove the bits of ez-out, before I can drill and tap, which I should have just done in the first place, and saved myself the five minutes with the ez-out, and a half hour removing the busted ez-out. I should point out that I was the patient one that got all the troublesome extractions in the shop, so I've had more experience on rusty ontario/quebec junk than many people, and therefore kind of expect the worst.
Anyways , if you are using an ez-out, I'd suggest using heat first anyways.
another thing, small ez outs are too long. they twist right off if you aint careful..