Author Topic: EGR delete  (Read 16177 times)

November 23, 2005, 02:40:16 am

coke

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EGR delete
« on: November 23, 2005, 02:40:16 am »
The writeup on tdiclub under the faq (http://www.tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-7.html#j) describes a procedure you can use with the VAG-COM scan tool that will stop the soot buildup problem due to the egr on the TDI engines. Does this actually work?  I read some places that contradicted that information, but I want to know before I have to take "other measures" to stop the soot / oil / krud / buildup problem. Thanks in advance.



Reply #1November 23, 2005, 03:42:57 am

Maarten

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« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2005, 03:42:57 am »
if you check the values of the data afterwards you can check if it works...

The pluggin is the best optiuon for the non-PD engines, PD engines can produce enginefaulscodes with the plug installed so the software way is the best for those.




My stainless steel "EGRplug" with extra gasket :)
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Reply #2November 23, 2005, 12:33:33 pm

malone

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Re: EGR delete
« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2005, 12:33:33 pm »
Quote from: "coke"
a procedure you can use with the VAG-COM scan tool that will stop the soot buildup problem due to the egr on the TDI engines. Does this actually work?


Turning down EGR via VAG-COM only slows down the soot buildup. It's still possible to get a nasty soot buildup again at only 50,000km after intake cleaning & VAG-COM EGR adaptation - it varies but I've seen it. However, because it only takes a few minutes of VAG-COM use it is worth doing. Eventually you will want to plug up the EGR completely to permanently stop the soot buildup.
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Reply #3November 27, 2005, 01:26:27 am

coke

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« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2005, 01:26:27 am »
Any easy ways to plug the EGR without having to buy a racepipe or anything?

Reply #4November 27, 2005, 11:12:05 am

Maarten

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« Reply #4 on: November 27, 2005, 11:12:05 am »
Quote from: "coke"
Any easy ways to plug the EGR without having to buy a racepipe or anything?



Check my pictures, buy 2 new EGR gaskets and machine a stainless steel shaped the same as the gasket (without the hole in the middle ofcourse ;))
Audi A3 TDI '98
VW cabby '79
VW T3 1.9TD '91

Reply #5November 27, 2005, 02:08:47 pm

dubCanuck1

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« Reply #5 on: November 27, 2005, 02:08:47 pm »
So, do you need to cover both ends? Do you also need to reconfigure anything in the ECU once you've blocked it off?

Reply #6November 28, 2005, 03:38:09 am

Maarten

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« Reply #6 on: November 28, 2005, 03:38:09 am »
No, only one end needs to be blocked but you'll need 2 new gaskets for either side of the plate to avoind exhaustgasses leaking out or air being sucked into the intake manifold.
Audi A3 TDI '98
VW cabby '79
VW T3 1.9TD '91

Reply #7November 28, 2005, 04:16:58 pm

fspGTD

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« Reply #7 on: November 28, 2005, 04:16:58 pm »
I was under the impression that simply disconnecting or plugging the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR), at least in the US where there is OBD-2 emissions checking, would trigger a fault code.

The way I understand it works is as follows: the Engine Control Unit (ECU) monitors airflow through the Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor.  When the ECU tries to open the EGR valve, it "expects" to see a certain decrease in airflow reported by the MAF sensor.  When the ECU tells the EGR system to open and start recirculating exhaust gasses, but then no flow change is reported by the MAF, it first tried to open the EGR valve wider, and if that doesn't work, it then sets a fault code that will be picked up during an ODB-2 emissions check, and will prevent the car from receiving a "Pass."

In fact, a very knowledgeable VW Tech (who actually is a fellow autocrosser) told me that failed MAF sensors are the culprit for the intake manifold soot-buildup problems.  He said the bad MAF sensors quietly cause the ECU to go haywire with the EGR - opening it up and recirculating way more exhaust gasses that it was ever supposed to, and that this causes the intake soot buildup.
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Reply #8November 29, 2005, 04:16:45 am

Maarten

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« Reply #8 on: November 29, 2005, 04:16:45 am »
Disconnecting the EGR and plugging the vacuumline can produce a faultcode, using the plug can produce a faultcode in PD engines.. not in VE-pump TDIs

In The Netherlands the exhaustgasses are checked for particles, so with the EGR disabled it is easier to pass the check (my TDI has a 0.5 score = very low. with EGR it was 1/1.3)
Audi A3 TDI '98
VW cabby '79
VW T3 1.9TD '91

Reply #9January 01, 2006, 11:22:06 am

Dr. Diesel

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« Reply #9 on: January 01, 2006, 11:22:06 am »
so has anyone failed an emissions test with their EGR plugged?
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Reply #10January 01, 2006, 01:47:42 pm

QuickTD

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« Reply #10 on: January 01, 2006, 01:47:42 pm »
I don't think its possible to fail a diesel emissions check. They don't test for NOX or any other gasses in the exhaust. Opacity is the only test they do in all the states an provinces that I'm aware of. In Ontario it is done visually with the engine idling... Plugging the EGR will improve the opacity result. In most cases the car would have to smoke like a tire fire to fail...

 The only test you could concievably fail would be the visual inspection, but if you leave all the EGR junk on and just install a steel gasket without a hole nobody will be the wiser... A device can be rigged to switch a fixed resistance or diode drop into the MAF signal wire to avoid the fault code and CEL.

Reply #11January 19, 2006, 04:22:40 pm

GoFaster

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« Reply #11 on: January 19, 2006, 04:22:40 pm »
Maarten is talking about European engines. On North American engines, even on the distributor-pump engines, if you block the EGR you will normally sooner or later get a "check engine" light. I have seen some specific vehicles that won't cause a code (96 Passat with original ECU!), but 99% of them will.
'96 Passat TDI (looks stock)