retorqueing 11mm headbolts

[ToddA1]

I just replaced a lot of the seals and gaskets that were leaking on the truck.  I had a leak-free diesel for a few days, but I noticed some oil spots return a week later.

Turns out the HG is leaking a very small bit...  it looks to be at the rear corner at #1.  I have a CR with a 17mm crank bolt, 16D block, and 12pt head bolts.  I've read a lot of conflicting info, so I can only safely assume I have an 11mm head.

Does anyone try and retorque these bolts?  The truck runs fantastic, and I don't believe I have a cracked block.  I also don't want to do a HG and install studs, just because of a few oil spots. 

-Todd

[rs899]

I don't think there is any way you could be leaking oil from the head from the point you describe.  The high pressure oil runs up in the front between #3 and #4.  Are you sure it's not a valve cover , cam or intermediate shaft leak?

I would really think twice, then think again,  about  retorqeing , if it's running well.

I think you may be looking at torque to yield bolts that were used in the gassers. Who knows how they were last torqued.

[ToddA1]

I reasealed that entire side of the engine when I did a motor mount 3 weeks ago.  The v/c and oil pan gaskets were upgraded to the rubber style at the same time. 

Prior to the reseal, the oil spots were very large.  I power washed the engine when the mount bracket was off, and I got the engine pretty clean.  It appears that the oil seepage is coming from below the HG's overhang on that side (front) of the block. 

-Todd

[Quantum TD]

Oil does not need to be pressurized to leak out of the HG. My engine leaks out of the front return hole: about a quart every 7000 miles.

If you do have 11mm bolts, and the oil is not mixing with the coolant, I'd learn to live with the oil leak. When you did the head job, did you use studs or the original bolts? If you used original bolts, you exponentially increase your risk of cracking the block by retorquing.

[ToddA1]

I didn't touch the headgasket, so that and the bolts may be original to the vechicle.  PO told me he put a different engine in, but I have no clue if that's true if he did any other maintenance to the engine...  most likely a R&R.

Coolant is perfect; I replaced it about 2 months ago when I replaced the heater core.  It looked absolutely clean when I drained the system to replace the H2O pump, when I did the mount.

I may just live with the leak....  a leak free A1 was pretty nice, while it lasted.  I'll try snugging up the v/c nuts and oil pan bolts.  I never did that after heat cycling the engine.  They may be adding to the leak.

-Todd