It was certainly too cold to be spreading gravel on the, now frozen, mud ruts in my driveway.
Oh well I guess it had to be done.
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htmIs something like this going to show me if the head gasket is bad? I know this particular one is for GAS only but obv I'd get the diesel one. Is there a cheaper way of determining this information? Or some sort of homemade device that uses the same liquid? I'd rather spend $30 then $50-$60.
Starting it, and seeing how fast it builds pressure is your cheapest, and pretty darned reliable way of checking.. With 23:1 compression, if the gasket is leaking, it'll build pressure real quick!
The pressure will build very rapidly if the block is cracked as well though. If it takes a while to get hot check your radiator for cool spots, waterpump, thermostat etc. if it gets hot in a matter of seconds its combustion gases.
This is a small update I posted over at VWDIESELPARTS
Well even though I have no new updates as far as testing this I do have the original emails from the mechanic.
The block seems excellent,with no ridges at all on the cylinder walls.I beleive it is remanufactured because it looks fairly new,even the paint.Spent the whole day on it yesterday and will have it done sometime today.Couple other minor but important things you need are an air filter,and an oil baffle whicks sits on top of the cam shaft and prevents oil from getting into the intake manifold(where the air filter sits).Good news is that i need get it running late yesterday and the cooling system is working fine.I just have to re-torque the head and put all the guards and such back on.Thn i will chech the wiring to see what caused thes problem in the first place.Got to get some more coffee,Walter
.I also replaced your brake booster,repaired your ebrake,in the process of replacing the lower adjustment bracket for your alt. belt(it was cracked),changed the oil and filter,fuel return lines and more,including the baffle and air. filter.
,I already fixed the cooling fan(engine) and noticed the interior one wasn't working.[MY NOTES – IT WORKED, I THOUGHT, NEVER HAD AN ISSUE BEFORE HE HAD CAR] I will check that stuff out today and try and fix the most important stuff(defroster needs to work in the winter).The reason i do all of my emailing in the morning is becuase i don't have any interuptions and can concentrate fully.Talk to u later,XXXXX PS( i beleive the broken bracket might have been what caused your problem since it does also run the waterpump)
.I installed a new power wire for your heater motor,yours had a short somewhere.Removed the 2 passanger door handles and greased them(white lithium grease)and the inner part of the latch assembly.Greased the outer latches on the drivers side doors.Installed a new bracket for your grease lines under the car,they were hanging down under the passengers door.Put and additional 12 or so wire ties on the grease hoses,they were rubbing the frame in some places.Spent 1 hour trying to figure out the radio but got stumped.I think the radio is shot.Installed all new injector return lines,yours were mismatch and old.Replaced the broken alt. bracket,there is a better setup available its just to cold to locate rights now.Re-installed the horn wires,they were disconnected.Repaced the downpipe exhaust gasket and installed new hardware.Installed faster glow plugs 12 seconds and a new glowplug relay.Interior lights seem fine,mabe by fixing some of the other electrical problems they fixed themselves.Repaired one of your passenger door moldings,it was starting to come off.Installed the original vent window and put on some really good two part adhesive,hopefully it will work.Lubricated all the shifting linkage,inside and out, plus the hood latch and truck latch.I gave it a short test drive and it runs super for the year.The shifter now works like it came straight from the dealer,i also tighten one of the linkage pieces that was loose under the center of the vehicle.I am sure there are some things i forgot but i covered most of it.All the addition work came to an extra $400 but was well worth it and will save you additional problem down the road.The glowplug relay costs over $60 new,and the glowplugs were used but in excellent condition.
And some more info from the PO.
This is when I went down there, drove 5 miles, and the car stopped on the highway.
It then became a 4+ month battle . . . 5 times back to the shop. I never managed to drive it more than home and back – sometimes not even that.
In the course of this, he also claims he also replaced the fuel pump, starter, solenoid (Ithink?), changed the grease switch around (he had reversed it by accident, so I asked him to put it back), replaced the vent window (fell out on the highway on the way home and smashed), and did a bunch of other little stuff.
Pretty sure this car hasn't been run on Grease it just has the grease system.
Update... The Injector line is broken. It broke off just above the flare. I have to fix that before I can even run this thing warm.
Anyone got a used line? I need the second one from the right.
I've found checking for a steady stream of bubbles to be far more objective than observing how quickly the hoses pressurize.
Remove the pressure cap and fill the reservoir right to the top with fresh water. Start the engine and watch for a constant stream of bubbles to rise to the top of the coolant reservoir. Check at various RPMs as well. You may need to pinch off the radiator return hose to keep from making a mess.
Chris
Sorry about the lack of updates.
My attentions
have sort of
shifted suddenly......
Who says you can't rent an apartment and own parts cars?
Rabbits do tend to multiply quickly..
I bought my first one for $100 bucks.. By the end of that week I had 4 sitting around..
well um, now that you have three, you need to keep them apart. If you don't you'll have 6.
need to throw a couple 2 door cars in the mix too..
then maybe we will have 3 door rabbits.
or throw in a passat wagon, then we could have rabbit wagons!
Well I relocated the Rabbits to my new er.. Work area. In a clearing in the woods. I'm pulling the red ones engine to put in the white one I think... Although the white one needs all that surface rust cleaned up. I don't really have any idea how to do that. I've avoided body work like the plague for years. The yellow one is really clean but I think it's going to have to be used for parts. I'll probably sell the shell.
Once I get the white one on the road... My MKII golf goes under the knife for a tranny swap and some body work and some interior work...sigh... The previous owner left a gasser trans in there when he converted it to diesel.
